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So I’ve redone the front and rear brakes. However, the shoes in the rear squeal when coming to a stop. Very annoying……yes the squeal is loud enough to turn heads. So I greased the areas behind the shoes where the little metal bumps exist that ride up against a metal plate at the rear of the brake assembly. This is what many repair forums said to do. It worked!!!!!!!!!!! But only for a couple of weeks and then the squeal comes back. Any answers on how to get rid of this embarrassing squeal?
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The answer to this is just about without fail cheap pads. You get what you pay for with friction material and the cheaper pads and shoes often make noise. If you replaced them with quality pads I’m sure you would have better results. I don’t advocate putting anything on the backs of pads because as you pointed out it’s normally a waste of time and just makes a mess. This is how I treat brakes when I replace them. The lubricants used and how they are used are key to a successful brake job.
My father bought a 1998 Dodge Ram and the rear brakes squeaked. So he asked me to check. To my surprise they installed the brake shoes incorrectly. They had been on there a while…. one side had broken and cracked the shoe seats and the other side was bent and cracked.
It’s silly and I’m not saying you did it but it happens.If the shoes were installed incorrectly when you got the truck and you replaced the brakes and put them back on exactly as they were. That can cause issues.
Same think happened on my brothers 1993 Dodge Dakota.I will check it out. You can actually put brake shoes on backwards? I had no idea. I just duplicated what was in front of me when replacing. So I guess it’s possible. Stay tuned and I will let you know.
So……just to make sure. I am talking about rear brake shoes (pads) No disc brakes on ther rear of the truck. The shoes don’t seem to be squealing. It’s the back of the shoes where there are about three protruding metal nubs on each shoe where they sit up against a flat piece of metal with all the springs installed. I hope I am explaining this in a way you can understand what I am trying to describe.
Drums have have shoes.
Rotors have pads.
My dad always busts my ass because I tend to call wheel cylinders calipers. Calipers go on rotors with pads. Wheel cylinders go on drums with shoes. Terminology :silly:I was careful to say shoes. Yes, you can install shoes incorrectly. The springs and hardware have to go on a certain way or there will be binding or too much or too little force exerted on the 3 (or 6) bosses (3 per shoe) on the backing plate and other hardware. Your referring to the bosses right?
The Dodge Ram shoes are all identical but the hardware install is slightly different drivers/passenger side. Duo servo or something. Been over a year since I did the ram and 4 since the Dakota.Worn hardware can also be an issue. Drums and springs should be nice and perdy and not too worn. When you do drum brakes it’s a great time to sand away rust on the baking plate and spray on a coat of rustoleum or rust inhibiting paint, front and back. Not necessary to paint but it could help with friction and increase the life of the baking plate. Looks perdy too… sanding the bosses is fine.
Eric did do a video on brake SHOES though his example slightly differs from your truck if I remember correctly. Servo rather than duo servo.
I know most people don’t like the $15 shoes/pads but they do last years if installed correctly and inspected annually.
http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1d5yt-put-rear-brakes-97-dodge-ram-truck.html
Don’t believe they differ much from 97-99. Your service manual should provide information.
If your still having difficulty I have his old Ram sitting in my driveway. I could rip it apart and give you an example. There are lots of examples on the Internet too.Good luck to you man.
A little bit of high temperature lubricant on the contact points (Those three/four pads where the sides of the shoes sit, as well as the anchor point) can help greatly. Be sure to use the right lubricant. Regular chassis lube won’t do, as the friction heat of brakes can quickly break down the grease. You need something like Lubriplate or dedicated brake lubricant.
New hardware is always a good idea.
If the rear drums weren’t machined it’s possible that the shoe linings have become glazed, or the drum inside surface is glazed. You should resurface the drums and rotors whenever replacing the pads or shoes, as they both wear to each other, and one new part against an old worn part is often a recipe for problems.
The above video shows how I handle rear shoes and should answer many of your questions. Use the lubricant’s shown in the video for best results. Once again, cheap friction material =noise almost every time.
OK, I pullled everything off and compared it to the manual and everything is installed correctly. So I took it all apart again anyway. Previously I put some high temperature grease on the bosses because of the squeak and it worked for a about a week or so, but then the squeak came back.
This time I sanded those bosses until they were nice and clean and shiny. I also cleaned everything up with brake cleaner again then reinstalled all of the hardware. I put her all back together and went for a ride. Nice and quiet just like before.
So I know it’s not the shoes, the squeak seems to come from the back of the shoes scrapping across the bosses. The squeak only happens when I am coming to a complete stop. Could it just be that really cleaning and lubricating the bosses will solve this problem completely?
I used this stuff from O’Reilly Auto parts. Blue grease in a small packet. It worked for a couple of weeks. What I put on there now is high temperature bearing grease. Is there a magic cure?
Brake and caliper grease
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/crc/05359/image/4/
high temperature bearing grease is not meant for brakes. You can use it but it will collect brake dust and break down quicker. Lubes are designed to fit certain applications. Using incorrect lubes on components will only result in premature failure.
It is tantamount to putting gear oil in your engine. It’ll work… but your asking for trouble.
That $13 can of brake grease will last years. Dollar for dollar, it is a much better buy compared to those packets they sell… those packets are a rip off imho.Auto part brand friction material may not be the quality that I’m speaking of. I think you’d be much better off with a name brand part. I can’t stress enough how much of a difference this makes. Also I think it’d be better to use anti-seize on the bosses as I show in all my drum brake videos however I don’t think that would have any effect on noise.
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