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Hi, I’m new to this forum. I found ETCG on yt, great videos BTW. I have searched many forums trying to figure out my no start condition. Here are the symptoms. One month ago it started having issues starting. When cold It would crank and start but run rough and after a few minutes run perfectly. When warm no problem. Now it won’t start at all, it will try to fire when it starts cranking than just cranks with no sign of ignition. Here are the things that have been attempted or things I think I have eliminated.
New timing belt, tensioner, water pump etc. 40k miles ago (mechanical timing is good)
New ignition harness 20k miles ago, worked fine no dieing.
Has noise coming from the fuel pump when key turned on, smell gas when trying to start, no visible leaks. I have not check the fuel pressure, not sure how on the TL.
Tried the main relay no change.
The immobilizer is working correctly (flashes a couple times and goes out), no after market security stuff.It appears to me to be a timing related problem as I don’t think it has a bad fuel pump and it does have spark. The car ran perfectly a month ago after warm up, no misses, smooth and great power. Unfortunately I disconnected the battery before I installed the main relay and I have no codes I can provide.
Any help would be greatly appreciated??? Maybe a crank sensor?
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see if this helps.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Another good site for Honda/Acura problems
When you ‘went through all those’ what did you find missing? Spark, fuel? Honda’s hardly ever have issues with fuel delivery so I would leave that at the bottom of the list. Since it’s a 99 you likely only have one ignition coil and a distributor. Those would be worth checking into in my opinion.
Those cars also had issues with idle control valves. If your’s is not functioning correctly, it MIGHT cause a no start condition, but I think that’s remote. I would rule out spark and fuel delivery first.
Also, if your timing belt tensioner was not replaced, it could be a loose timing belt. The tensioners on that model are known for problems and I recommend you replace them when doing the timing belt.
We can’t tell you what parts to replace. We can however help guide you through your diagnosis but you’re going to have to do some diagnostic work and get back to us with your findings.
Keep us posted.
Thank you!!! It has coil over plug, has spark. I hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key, should it buzz every cycle of the ignition or only until pressurized? I did have the tensioner replaced when the new timing belt was installed. How do I check the fuel pressure on a 99 TL?
Okay, I pulled the plugs today just to check and see how they looked. They looked a bit tired and all smelled of gasoline. I replaced them with OE NGK’s and gave it another go. No change… I do smell unburned fuel when attempting to start the engine. The engine turns over and tries to ignite but just stumbles. Are there other fuses or relays other than the main relay I should be looking at? It appears to be flooding.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Have you tried starting it with the accelerator depressed a bit? If you try with full throttle, the car will shut off the fuel injectors and unflood the engine if flooded.
Have you checked to see if it has any codes? Even if the CEL isn’t on, there might be something there in the basic or even extended ones that can give you a good pointer.
If it’s is just stumbling, this problem didn’t turn up right after doing the timing belt/tensioner, then as Eric states, I’d focus on checking for proper spark right off if it were me. If one of the sensors such as crank were bad they will “usually” be reflected in a code being thrown. If you’re smellin’ gas, then again, it’s likely you’ve got sufficent fuel pressure.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=81984]Since it’s a 99 you likely only have one ignition coil and a distributor. Those would be worth checking into in my opinion.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Okay, I’m not getting any sound from the fuel pump. What wire should I check for power to the pump? It is an intermittent problem, sometimes I hear the pump and sometimes not. I pulled the trunk apart and took off the access panel to the pump and I am now sure the pump is not functioning, at least not regularly. I have already replaced the main relay.
Thank you all for the suggestions.
The p1607 means the ECU has recognized an internal problem.
So yes. Get one from a salvage yard or possible ebay. Just get
one of the same make,model and trim. Either the dealer will need
to program the ecu or a locksmith for the immobilizer system.College man, here’s an update. Before I went out to purchase a used ECU I decided to put a new battery in the car because it was getting weak. After I put the battery in the car it started cranking faster and was trying to fire. It seems like the choke is not working, so I put a rag in the intake to slow down the air intake. The car fired but it struggled and after a few minutes it ran fine except for a rough idle. I will perform an EGR port cleaning and check the idle control valve next. The car does have 197k miles and the EGR port has not been cleaned in at least 80k miles. I’m not sure if this will help but it can’t hurt:) No codes so far.
Cheers!!!
I pulled the intake plenum per the ETCG video. The carbon in the EGR port was hard and crusty, not like the video, but there is no way anything could bypass the carbon. Cleaned the carbon out of the intake manifold and pulled out the idle control valve. The ICV looked dirty and the gasket looked like it might be leaking.
I’m ordering a new intake gasket just to be sure it is sealing and a new ICV and gasket and will post the results after installation.
This car belongs to my son and I am trying to fix its problems as a X-mas present.
Cheers!!!
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