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I have a 1999 Acura TL (4sp auto/95K miles) that has no green key light (not flashing, just no light at all) and won’t start but does crank. Plenty of gas reaches the cylinder but no spark (confirmed). All fuses are good and all plug wires were triple checked. The bulb itself tests fine.
List of things done in reverse order:
Replaced board in instrument cluster that lights mileage/door open/etc (requires removing dash/instrument cluster).
Replaced spark plugs (car ran beautifully after this… for about 2 weeks)
Timing Belt/serpentine belt/lower pulley replaced (last year)
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99% of these crank/no-starts with this generation vehicle is the ignition switch (when the main relay isn’t the culprit). There was a recall on these switches for this reason. Call Honda with your VIN to see if your vehicle is eligible for the recall replacement. Even if you or a previous owner did have the recall service done, the replacement switch could still have gone bad. It’s the nature of the beast. Unfortunately in that case it would be on you to fix it this time.
The switch was replaced a long time ago so you could be right. I was hoping it wasn’t the ECU failing or something more serious. Is there a way I can confirm that the switch is faulty?
Does the green key light come on for ~2 seconds when the key is inserted then go out? When you take the key out does that light blink for 5 seconds and then go out?
You might want to check your fuses before looking into the ignition switch. The immobilizer system is not operating.
Check fuse #13 (7.5A) in the passenger side fuse box. If the fuse is not blown make sure there is battery voltage there.
Fuse 13 is OK. I did find a fuse in the engine bay that was blown (15A marked ACG S). Unfortunately, I have the dash apart at the moment to check the bulb and the connections. Bulb is fine. When I reinsert the dash, I’ll check things again with a new fuse. Thanks.
Hmm. Interesting. A bad ACG-S fuse will definitely keep the car from starting. It powers the PGM-FI relay, but you had said that the engine was getting fuel.
Oh yeah. Plugs are wet and have a strong fuel odour. And, yes, I have tried Clear Flood mode. Also forgot to mention that I removed and tested the main/fuel relay under the dash. Its OK too.
Success! Everything started right up with the new fuse. Purrs like a kitten. Not sure why the plugs were wet if the PGM-FI was out or why the fuse blew in the first place. What else does the fuse connect too? May have to recheck that relay module.This car was in a front end collision many years ago and was extensively rebuilt and some of the bugs are still working there way to the surface. Thanks for all the assistance cap269.
Good that it’s working! Maybe the wiring was ‘modified’ in the aftermath of the collision? That fuse only goes to the PGM-FI and DLC according to the factory service manual. If the wiring system was modified, then who knows…
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