Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 1999 2.3L Accord temp guage not working
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September 24, 2013 at 1:28 am #550898
Before commenting please read everything I’ve done/replaced. Or suspect.
Items replaced;
-Temperature sensor
-Temperature sensor sending unit(single wire)both under distributor.
Checked and cleaned all fuses that could be related.
My 1999 Accord Temperature gauge goes from cold-hot as soon as I start my car(sometimes takes up to 20-30 seconds.)
Does this when the car is ice cold(so it’s not overheating for sure).
please help? The car has a transmission rebuild, could anything have gotten tampered with? all wires seem to be good.
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September 24, 2013 at 1:50 am #550916
bump
September 24, 2013 at 2:08 am #550936September 24, 2013 at 2:20 am #550938[quote=”college man” post=73566]see if this helps.
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/466yj-honda-accord-98-honda-accord-temp-gage-go.html%5B/quote%5D
thanks, but like I said I’ve replaced both.
September 24, 2013 at 2:35 am #550946if you unplug the sender connector does the gauge drop?
September 26, 2013 at 12:31 am #551367In my experience that’s not a common problem. Since you already replaced the sensor, perhaps your issue is in the dash. You might unplug the sensor and observe the gauge to see if there is a change. If there isn’t, then perhaps the issue is in the cluster and not a problem with the sending uint. Also, it would be a good idea to check all the wiring and connections.
Keep us posted.
September 27, 2013 at 8:44 am #551637[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=73760]In my experience that’s not a common problem. Since you already replaced the sensor, perhaps your issue is in the dash. You might unplug the sensor and observe the gauge to see if there is a change. If there isn’t, then perhaps the issue is in the cluster and not a problem with the sending uint. Also, it would be a good idea to check all the wiring and connections.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Ok so i removed the sending unit connection and the gauge dropped! So does that mean my new sending unit is faulty?
September 27, 2013 at 9:22 am #551641With it disconnected, check your resistance of the sensor to ground. When cold, how many Ohms? Warm the car up. What are the Ohms when warm?
Is this a one wire sensor circuit? Haven’t got my wiring diagram readily available right now to see if this reading is relayed to the IC from another module or if it’s a direct circuit to the IC.
September 27, 2013 at 10:02 am #551644[quote=”Avender” post=73921]With it disconnected, check your resistance of the sensor to ground. When cold, how many Ohms? Warm the car up. What are the Ohms when warm?
Is this a one wire sensor circuit? Haven’t got my wiring diagram readily available right now to see if this reading is relayed to the IC from another module or if it’s a direct circuit to the IC.[/quote]
sorry i’m not that technical, don’t have any ohm reader or whatever it’s called and wouldn’t know how to use one…
i don’t know where the grounds are either.
September 27, 2013 at 10:46 am #551646Well… It’s either the gauge or the sensor. Make sure the cooling system has no air pockets in it. This one wire sensor is direct to the gauge.
I’m gonna try to find the test image.
September 27, 2013 at 10:49 am #551648[quote=”Avender” post=73923]Well… It’s either the gauge or the sensor. Make sure the cooling system has no air pockets in it. This one wire sensor is direct to the gauge.
I’m gonna try to find the test image.[/quote]
with it plugged in, gauge goes straight up to hot…
with it unplugged, it stays down on cold(like the car is off)
the temperature sensor is new aswell.. no air pockets, just got a new radiator and it was bled
September 27, 2013 at 11:04 am #551660September 27, 2013 at 11:08 am #551662[quote=”Avender” post=73925]Yes i realize you replaced the sensor already.
[/quote]ok heres an update: there is no fuse#15 on driver door jamb, passengers #15 is for power windows.
next off, i opened driver fuse box and noticed a white wire, not attached to anything, seems to be cut off…
looking at the wiring diagram, the sending unit wire is yellow, but branches into a yellow/white wire inside the cluster?
here’s a picture, no idea where it leads to and where it’s coming from.
[URL=http://s570.photobucket.com/user/davidgirgis/media/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg.html][IMG]http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss141/davidgirgis/IMG_20130927_011318_999_zps129c3479.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
September 27, 2013 at 2:40 pm #551671Don’t worry too much about that white wire right now, it looks like something left over from a stereo, alarm, or maybe remote starter install. I don’t believe that is any part of your original wiring, nor do I believe it has anything to do with your temp gauge issue.
First question, did you replace the temp sensor originally because of this exact problem, or did this problem occur after you put the new temp sensor it?
Now then, really, it isn’t possible to completely trouble shoot this without getting a multimeter. They aren’t terribly expensive. Here in New York, I can get one from Harbor Freight tools for around $6 or so that will do the job.
Ground is the Negative terminal of your battery (black side) and also, it is any bare piece of metal such as the engine block, cylinder head, or bolts that go into the body of the car. All of those are ground.
The sensor that controls your temp gauge is a single wire sensor, so to test it for resistance, you set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms), connect the black wire from the multimeter to a good clean ground connection (if there is rust / dirt / corrosion it will affect your reading, so scrape it clean if needed) and hold the red lead to the contact on the sensor (obviously, remove the wiring harness from the sensor first). Do this once with the engine fully cold, and once with it warmed up.
If the numbers are within the range specified in the shop manual, then the sensor is good, and since the gauge drops to cold when you remove the wiring from the sensor, I am going to say that the wiring is good too, so that would lead me to believe that the issue would be in the guage.
If the resistance is NOT within the range specified in the shop manual, then obviously, your new temp sending unit is bad, get the store to swap it out for you.
September 28, 2013 at 1:47 am #551727[quote=”Tomh” post=73934]Don’t worry too much about that white wire right now, it looks like something left over from a stereo, alarm, or maybe remote starter install. I don’t believe that is any part of your original wiring, nor do I believe it has anything to do with your temp gauge issue.
First question, did you replace the temp sensor originally because of this exact problem, or did this problem occur after you put the new temp sensor it?
Now then, really, it isn’t possible to completely trouble shoot this without getting a multimeter. They aren’t terribly expensive. Here in New York, I can get one from Harbor Freight tools for around $6 or so that will do the job.
Ground is the Negative terminal of your battery (black side) and also, it is any bare piece of metal such as the engine block, cylinder head, or bolts that go into the body of the car. All of those are ground.
The sensor that controls your temp gauge is a single wire sensor, so to test it for resistance, you set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms), connect the black wire from the multimeter to a good clean ground connection (if there is rust / dirt / corrosion it will affect your reading, so scrape it clean if needed) and hold the red lead to the contact on the sensor (obviously, remove the wiring harness from the sensor first). Do this once with the engine fully cold, and once with it warmed up.
If the numbers are within the range specified in the shop manual, then the sensor is good, and since the gauge drops to cold when you remove the wiring from the sensor, I am going to say that the wiring is good too, so that would lead me to believe that the issue would be in the guage.
If the resistance is NOT within the range specified in the shop manual, then obviously, your new temp sending unit is bad, get the store to swap it out for you.[/quote]
sorry i just can’t do that, i’ll replace the sending unit again, if that doesn’t work it’s definitely my gauge…
which is unusual because it can go from cold to hot normally? so why can’t it just work.
October 2, 2013 at 1:21 am #552516If the gauge moved when you unplugged the sensor, it’s not the gauge. It sounds like you’ve either got a bad gauge or a wiring problem.
Forget about the white wire under the dash. I’m sure it isn’t related.
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