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Have some odd sounds coming from my ZJ.
1 – Idle seems to have something like a misfire, but only when idling in drive. Goes away in neutral and in park. No misfire when accelerating. No CEL. Recent tune up (plugs/cap/rotor/wires, Kolak kit) and changed out the rubber motor mounts for polyurethane mounts. All sensors seem to be clean.
2 – When slowing down from higher speeds, I hear a cricket chirp type sound. I’m thinking it’s the CV axles losing grease. Not sure if it’s the wheel hubs, as I checked the 3/9 clock positions and didn’t notice anything irregular. I don’t hear a roar type sound when accelerating. Braking magnifies the sound. New brake pads and rotors installed a month ago. Front and rear pinion bearing seem solid, no play in either shaft/yoke area.
Anyone familiar with these issues? I do plan on swapping the CV shafts for U-joint shafts and the front CV drive shaft for a U-joint drive shaft. The Jeep currently has Cherokee wheels hubs installed, so I also plan on installed the correct Grand Cherokee hubs soon anyway. Just curious if I need to check other areas. I did notice my top passenger side ball joint has a lot of crud around it. I don’t hear any squeaking or popping when turning or going over speed bumps like I’ve heard before.
Overall the Jeep runs and drives strong! So it could just be nuance noise I’m hearing.
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Check for intake manifold vacuum leaks. I think there were intake gasket issues on the 5.9L?
Found some info in the TSB 09-05-00:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68739I also think you may have a vacuum leak. As for the noise check the CV joint on your front drive shaft. I’ve seen quite a few of them fail on Grand Cherokee’s. I had to put a front drive shaft in my 98 Grand Cherokee but the front axles are original with 320,000 and still rolling.
The steel plate under the intake was replaced with an aluminum plate. I do have three spare intake gaskets from FelPro I can install if need be, but I doubt that’s the case. Definitely a worthwhile place to start though.
[quote=”machinist85″ post=167630]I also think you may have a vacuum leak. As for the noise check the CV joint on your front drive shaft. I’ve seen quite a few of them fail on Grand Cherokee’s. I had to put a front drive shaft in my 98 Grand Cherokee but the front axles are original with 320,000 and still rolling.[/quote]
I actually went to the junkyard yesterday and found a 1997 Grand with U-Joint axle shafts. Was able to pull them out (using a 3/8 ratchet no less, will have to post up a review of that little champ somewhere here for you tool guys) and the U-joints flex great, but I am still going to pop them out and replace them with the big beefy Spicer 5-760x joints. Also going to clean and de-rust the shafts (Evaporust, naval jelly, dremel and elbow grease) and then top them off with new Raybestos professional wheel hub bearings. The wheel bearings currently on this Grand actually come from a regular Cherokee, which work fine, but I want to get the correct year wheel hubs installed to avoid later confusion. Although having a 5.9 with U-joint axle shafts may confuse someone later on. Hm. LOL
All the U-jointed front drive shafts, and I mean all, of the 20 or so ZJ/XJ’s I saw at the junkyard were already removed and taken. Obviously the U-joint front driveshaft is a coveted item.
I basically want to de-cv joint my Jeep. Not getting into a CV vs U-joint debate, but at this time and what my research has yielded, U-joints will work better for my personal Jeep. The main kicker is that the Dana 30 (front differential) CV joints seem to be weaker than the Dana 30 U-joints, but in general the CV joints for other cars may be better, particularly when going straight, like on the highway. Dealing with a Dana 30 swayed my choice to the U-joint shafts over the CV joints.
On a side note, I kind of wish I saw Detroit Axle’s U-joint shafts on eBay before I went to the junkyard. A pair of U-joint shafts with ABS rings runs $145 shipped from DA. On the flip side, I picked up the shafts and a door handle for my Chysler LHS for $30. New U-joints run $40. So for $70 and about $20 worth of cleaning/de-rusting chemicals, I should have better shafts but they won’t be new.
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