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Ah see I knew this was going to be a good car, save for the fact it sat for a long time. I have never had an issue with the cars that Ford made from the early 90’s to the late 2000’s. I never owned any but I did work on a couple and they were pretty easy to fix. I think this car is gonna be choice when you are finished with it and the spiders take their leave. I think this is a much better car to start with than Barbara’s van so far as intitial quality and engineering are concerned. Just a much better platform to work on.
I have a couple of comments that are about the video but not about repair. That old Jeep was very cool to see. Almost never see those anymore.
Also, I am still a fan of putting the best tires with more tread on the front of a FWD vehicle. I know that the tire companies say that having the old tires on the back induces fishtail, and there is absolutely truth to that. But on most small cars the fronts are the drive wheels. Having good tires on the drive wheels is essential because in hilly PA if you don’t have good tires on the front you are not going anywhere fast in the snow. On my 2007 F-150 (2WD, 4.2 V6, 5 Speed Manual; may the Matrix rest in peace) I’ll be putting snow tires on the back after the first snow. The truck came with good all seasons on the front so those will stay there, and the Hankooks on the back are trashed anyway. So Blizzaks for the back. We’ll see how it goes. Hopefully this isn’t too far afield. I think tires are always relevant.Nick (Sliberty)
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149383]Ah see I knew this was going to be a good car, save for the fact it sat for a long time. I have never had an issue with the cars that Ford made from the early 90’s to the late 2000’s. I never owned any but I did work on a couple and they were pretty easy to fix. I think this car is gonna be choice when you are finished with it and the spiders take their leave. I think this is a much better car to start with than Barbara’s van so far as intitial quality and engineering are concerned. Just a much better platform to work on.
I have a couple of comments that are about the video but not about repair. That old Jeep was very cool to see. Almost never see those anymore.
Also, I am still a fan of putting the best tires with more tread on the front of a FWD vehicle. I know that the tire companies say that having the old tires on the back induces fishtail, and there is absolutely truth to that. But on most small cars the fronts are the drive wheels. Having good tires on the drive wheels is essential because in hilly PA if you don’t have good tires on the front you are not going anywhere fast in the snow. On my 2007 F-150 (2WD, 4.2 V6, 5 Speed Manual; may the Matrix rest in peace) I’ll be putting snow tires on the back after the first snow. The truck came with good all seasons on the front so those will stay there, and the Hankooks on the back are trashed anyway. So Blizzaks for the back. We’ll see how it goes. Hopefully this isn’t too far afield. I think tires are always relevant.Nick (Sliberty)[/quote]
Actually, the car is already done, and it’s running great. You’re right, it was much easier to work on. As for Barbara’s van, she is the one that drove Jeff to come pick the car up. In fact, that’s how I found this car. Also, she says she loves driving it on the highway because it’s so smooth. I just need to address the AC and the ignition switch problem and I’ll have all the issues taken care of. Oh, there’s also a CEL for the EGR which I believe is the switch. I tested the valve and I know it’s good.
As for the front or rear tire thing, there’s been so much talk about that I plan to make a video about it after the snow falls. Going to do some real world testing to see what I can come up with.
Thanks for your input.
The Negotiator is is actually a cop drama starring Kevin Spacey and Samuel L Jackson. Was a pretty good flick, worth seeing. Good name for a tire too.
It was hard to see how much tube you had on the working side of the flare tool, but it almost looks like you did not have enough tube protruding through the hole. The length of tubing that should be left through the hole is usually supposed to be the same as the vertical length of the larger round part of the 3/16 adaptor… when in doubt, put the adaptor flush on the tubing tool (big side on the tool) and adjust how much of the tube is sticking out until it matches in length… Using this technique, I have had success making flares in tight places…
great video btw… would love to have one of those tools..
Karl
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=149419]It was hard to see how much tube you had on the working side of the flare tool, but it almost looks like you did not have enough tube protruding through the hole. The length of tubing that should be left through the hole is usually supposed to be the same as the vertical length of the larger round part of the 3/16 adaptor… when in doubt, put the adaptor flush on the tubing tool (big side on the tool) and adjust how much of the tube is sticking out until it matches in length… Using this technique, I have had success making flares in tight places…
great video btw… would love to have one of those tools..
Karl[/quote]
Thanks for the input. Thing is, it was a cheap Harbor Freight flare tool. I haven’t had much success with their tools in the past. I plan to find a better tool for doing flares under the car and I’ll use your advice there hoping for better results.
Wanted to add this on… this pic probably says it better than I explained it…
BTW… also a crucial step is that the tube edge should be chamfered with a file…. that may have caused the issue…
Kinda ironic you released this video at the exact same time as I replaced the rear brake lines in a 99 Saturn SC…
Cheers!
Karl
I had an almost identical car. It ran well, but I had 2 complaints. Lack of front seat head/leg room (I had to drive with the seat all the way back and I am only 5’10”) and lack of rear seat leg and head room (especially when the front seat was all the way back).
The Fusion is also know as the Mondeo in EU and that car is HUGE compared to the Contour.
As mentioned in the YouTube comments, get your self a NAPA 161A (CalVan 161) “on vehicle” brake line flare tool !
Also mention on YouTube, get yourself some 3/16 nickel-copper (NiCopp) brake line. You can bend it easily with your bare hands and it is supposed to last as long/longer than steel.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=149376]At first I thought this car was a real POS. After getting it running, I can see that it’s not. A few more repairs and this thing will be a great car. What are your thoughts?[/quote]
POS??? Maybe……. A RELIABLE POS 🙂
I got a 96 Mondeo 2.0 4 cyl. With more than 500.000km. Yes km…just to practice the metric system 🙂 I bought with 191.000km 8 years ago. The brake line on mine is also had to be fixed 2 years ago exact at the same place as on Jeff’s Contour. Other than that and the common brake and suspension stuff I only spent money to replace 2 automatic trannys. Now she is manual. Better gas mileage, better acceleration but I miss the automatic 🙁 Anyway it was good to see you working on “my” car 🙂
Great Job Eric! 🙂Flaring tools,forget about that Napa flaring tool.Mastercool makes the best flaring tool on the market and is well worth the money to buy (just over $400.00).Once you buy this one,will not go back.Quicker to make flares with also.Can use it in the car also.That nickel copper line is overpriced and too thin,about $25.00 for a 50 foot roll.Does not take flares very well also.The green coated brake line is better.The Contour is a pile of junk,the CD4E transmission in them is a pile of junk and most transmission repair shops won’t get inside of it.There is a plastic drum inside that melts if the ground wires are not put in the right spot.The engines,the 2.5 and 2.0 are Mazda engines including the CD4E transmission.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=149476]Flaring tools,forget about that Napa flaring tool.Mastercool makes the best flaring tool on the market and is well worth the money to buy (just over $400.00).Once you buy this one,will not go back.Quicker to make flares with also.Can use it in the car also.That nickel copper line is overpriced and too thin,about $25.00 for a 50 foot roll.Does not take flares very well also.The green coated brake line is better.The Contour is a pile of junk,the CD4E transmission in them is a pile of junk and most transmission repair shops won’t get inside of it.There is a plastic drum inside that melts if the ground wires are not put in the right spot.The engines,the 2.5 and 2.0 are Mazda engines including the CD4E transmission.[/quote]
Thanks for the tip. He’s already had the transmission replaced recently, so I don’t think that’s a concern. I was actually surprised at how easy this car was to work on and how well it took to the repairs. Much better than the Chrysler anyway. After getting this car fixed and running, I’ve come to really like it. I can see why so many people loved them.
Jeff has his car back now and is very happy. So I guess it all worked out in the end.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=149449]Wanted to add this on… this pic probably says it better than I explained it…
BTW… also a crucial step is that the tube edge should be chamfered with a file…. that may have caused the issue…
Kinda ironic you released this video at the exact same time as I replaced the rear brake lines in a 99 Saturn SC…
Cheers!
Karl[/quote]
I knew what you meant. But once again, the Harbor Freight tool was garbage. I believe I’d have better luck with the proper tool. Before I do the next one of these on the car, I plan to get one. I’ll have to, the Harbor Freight one broke after 2 uses.
That is an interesting coincidence.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=149457]As mentioned in the YouTube comments, get your self a NAPA 161A (CalVan 161) “on vehicle” brake line flare tool !
Also mention on YouTube, get yourself some 3/16 nickel-copper (NiCopp) brake line. You can bend it easily with your bare hands and it is supposed to last as long/longer than steel.[/quote]
The next time I need to do flares on the car, I’ll use a better tool. Thanks for the recommendation. As for the brake line, I haven’t had any issues with the stuff I’m using now. As you can see in the video, it worked just fine. What didn’t work was the crap Harbor Freight tool.
Thanks again.
Hi Eric,
A couple of points, in case you’re interested:
1. I have a very similar flaring tool set to your Harbor Freight one – they’re probably made in the same factory in China – and it does fine on copper brake line, but in the instructions it says it’s not suitable for steel lines. Maybe that was your problem.2. I really hate to see you working on brake lines with the fluid peeing out everywhere. Why don’t you wedge the brake pedal down? It really works, and you don’t have to push it all the way to the floor; just far enough so the master cylinder piston goes past the inlet from the reservoir.
Cheers
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