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Great series of videos. I really like those videos where you are working hard and working well and keep a sense of humor about the inevitable trials that arise. Don’t get too lost in the softie videos.
Love this series for various reasons.
I got a chuckle out of you commanding the trans to install itself :cheer:
Don’t you wish it worked that way sometime?[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=139640]Great series of videos. I really like those videos where you are working hard and working well and keep a sense of humor about the inevitable trials that arise. Don’t get too lost in the softie videos.[/quote]
Thanks for your input. I’ve been working very hard to make sure that the Friday videos will be packed with nothing but repairs for some time to come.
[quote=”lar1969″ post=139645]Love this series for various reasons.
I got a chuckle out of you commanding the trans to install itself :cheer:
Don’t you wish it worked that way sometime?[/quote]More often than not. 🙂
Great series of “busting hump” videos.
I’m not sure I like to work that hard, but I like to watch others working hard!
Thanks.
Great series and a great cause. It’s inspiring that you offer your knowledge and services to help people out directly like that.
I just finished watching the last video and a question kept coming to mind; why don’t you use more anti-seize? I realize that you have light-ish electric impacts and now a lift and can get angles of attack on things that us at home DIY’ers can’t so you don’t necessarily need ease of fastener removal. Sure, a lot of these vehicles may die completely before needing a particular part you serviced to be replaced again. But do you have specific reasons as to why you don’t use anti-seize?
Personally, I usually use anti-seize on most every fastener. It can make for messy hands but the times I’ve needed to take things apart again, I can get away with hand tools, occasionally resorting to a breaker bar or cheater pipe if they were torqued down. I don’t have a shop (or even a garage) and only recently got an air impact gun but it can be cumbersome and my small air compressor needs time to build back up. Even still, it’s nice to know I can get a ratchet into a tight spot and not have busted knuckles.
Also related to the question but not the videos, why is your preference for silicone paste on brake components? It was taught to me to religiously and liberally use CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper grease. Does the silicone paste ever ‘run’ like dielectric grease does? Especially with brakes, that would be a big concern of mine. The CRC stuff is pretty thick and knowing that it’s graphite, molybdenum and teflon, it won’t melt or run. I know there’s a million ways to skin a cat and in this line of work, experience tends to drive your decision but I’m just curious if you’ve compared the two and wondering why you have stuck with the 3M silicone paste.
[quote=”Spanky_Big_Boy” post=141348]Great series and a great cause. It’s inspiring that you offer your knowledge and services to help people out directly like that.
I just finished watching the last video and a question kept coming to mind; why don’t you use more anti-seize? I realize that you have light-ish electric impacts and now a lift and can get angles of attack on things that us at home DIY’ers can’t so you don’t necessarily need ease of fastener removal. Sure, a lot of these vehicles may die completely before needing a particular part you serviced to be replaced again. But do you have specific reasons as to why you don’t use anti-seize?
Personally, I usually use anti-seize on most every fastener. It can make for messy hands but the times I’ve needed to take things apart again, I can get away with hand tools, occasionally resorting to a breaker bar or cheater pipe if they were torqued down. I don’t have a shop (or even a garage) and only recently got an air impact gun but it can be cumbersome and my small air compressor needs time to build back up. Even still, it’s nice to know I can get a ratchet into a tight spot and not have busted knuckles.
Also related to the question but not the videos, why is your preference for silicone paste on brake components? It was taught to me to religiously and liberally use CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper grease. Does the silicone paste ever ‘run’ like dielectric grease does? Especially with brakes, that would be a big concern of mine. The CRC stuff is pretty thick and knowing that it’s graphite, molybdenum and teflon, it won’t melt or run. I know there’s a million ways to skin a cat and in this line of work, experience tends to drive your decision but I’m just curious if you’ve compared the two and wondering why you have stuck with the 3M silicone paste.[/quote]
You’ve sort of answered your own questions in your last statement. If you read your questions, what you’re really asking is “why don’t I do things like you do?”. Well, because I do things like I do. I’m not saying you’re doing things wrong, I’m saying that I do things my way, just like 100% of everyone that works on vehicles does. As for silicone paste, I cover that in depth here and also in several of the brake videos I’ve produced.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
Thanks for your input and have a great day.
I didn’t expect you to reply on a holiday but thanks for reading my question 🙂
I rambled a bit but I guess my question is; are there strict reasons that you have against using anti-seize and the CRC product or does it just boil down to doing what’s worked for you?
I really hope I didn’t come across as a know-it-all, I’m just eager to learn, it’s why I like your videos 🙂
Good job ! And great effort rounding up the suppliers to donate the parts. Eric, I hope YOU can write this off as a donation !!
You mentioned that the same vehicle would likely be back in a staring role. I hope you replace that “Rube Goldberg” job you did on that transmission hose. You are asking a lot for a hose clamp to hold on to a non-barbed tube !
Also, trans cooler hose is NOT the same as fuel line hose. Trans fluid gets a lot hotter (250+ is NOT uncommon). Also fuel hose these days comes in high pressure (fuel injection) and low pressure (carburetor and return line) versions.
[quote=”Spanky_Big_Boy” post=141455]I didn’t expect you to reply on a holiday but thanks for reading my question 🙂
I rambled a bit but I guess my question is; are there strict reasons that you have against using anti-seize and the CRC product or does it just boil down to doing what’s worked for you?
I really hope I didn’t come across as a know-it-all, I’m just eager to learn, it’s why I like your videos :)[/quote]
Experience mostly.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=142317]Good job ! And great effort rounding up the suppliers to donate the parts. Eric, I hope YOU can write this off as a donation !!
You mentioned that the same vehicle would likely be back in a staring role. I hope you replace that “Rube Goldberg” job you did on that transmission hose. You are asking a lot for a hose clamp to hold on to a non-barbed tube !
Also, trans cooler hose is NOT the same as fuel line hose. Trans fluid gets a lot hotter (250+ is NOT uncommon). Also fuel hose these days comes in high pressure (fuel injection) and low pressure (carburetor and return line) versions.[/quote]
After over a month in service my hose clamp is doing fine and there are no leaks. Sometimes you just use what you have that you know what will work. The strict guidelines you’re trying to adhere are not always attainable in the real world.
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