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Hi everybody,
First post here. First of all sorry for my spelling mistake I`m not from the us.
My Problem a Code p0118 i checkt the sensor en it was broken there was no more plastic around the sensor I bought a new sensor
still the same problem. I got a OBD2 scanner with freezeframe data tis is what it sad,Freeze Frame Information
Parameter Description Results
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0118
Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Open Loop
Calculated LOAD Value 5.49 %
Engine Coolant Temp -40.00 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 0.00 %
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 0.00 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 13.62 inHg
Engine RPM 873.25 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 0.00 mph
Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor 1.32 lb/min
Absolute Throttle Position 0.00 %Its idle really rough. and the RPM is now at 873 but will drop to 600 then its even worse
I checkt he wire and wiggelt it around but no change
I also test the voltge its at 5.2 volts
And ground is also good(also the temp gage das not work)
Vehicle: 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
Engine: V6, 4.3L
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Replies
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where are you from???
“Engine Coolant Temp -40.00 °F”the other thing that is odd is
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 0.00 %
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 0.00 %
which meens that your car fuel system is running perfectly that the gas to air ratio is perfect with no change at that time…. seams a little odd to me…
now that is the freeze fram data that happen when the code happened… I would see if you can get a scanner that has live data and see how that looks… and see if the numbers change or are constent… wich mean that something might be bad…
Im thinking something electical like another bad sensor or bad cable ot blown fuse…
yoour data shows your car was parked when it happenedit says that the current temp of Oranjestad, Aruba is 86F
what its saying is that it is not getting a singal to the ECU
unless that was before you changed the part with a new onesorry all I could find was a resistence check for it… but I think 4-6v is normal… but I could be easyly wrong… its been a few years sence I have check one
uselly will not cuase ruff idel…but there is one car on youtube that wouldnt start because of a bad coolent temp sencor… really odd but thats what it wouldnt start thats what a pro machanic found … it confused him on why but some wierd system provented it… but I think you have some other electrical problem… like I said check fuses and wires for brakes and bad… also see if you can find a freind or goto auto part store and see if there check scanner for checking lights can display live data… and see if your temp and fuel trims stay same or chengeOK I’ll wel put a update of my problem here tomorrow I’ll will drive it around and see what has changed I have a obd 2 scanner so that’s no problem and I also will check the rest
Thanks for the quick reply
So im in my car and it’s running idle his is what the live data is given me
Fuel System 1 Status cl
Fuel System 2 Status cl
Calculated LOAD Value 3.49 %
Engine Coolant Temp -40.00 °F Stil the same
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 50.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 0.00 %
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 25.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2 0.00 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 13.62 inHg
Engine RPM 646
Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor 0,8 lb/min
Absolute Throttle Position 0.00 %
IAT 113.0 I don’t no what that isWel there is something really wrong with this car
Al the fuse where OK wiring to or I’m not looking right
But the problem reems to be the stft b1 that’s not good
only thig I diffently see is having a problem is the coolent temp sensor… I would duble check and see if you have any other coolent sensors in the car… you maybe have 2 for some strange reson… I would then do a resistance check on the sensor it self with it unplugged and make sure its really good… bc the voltage might be tricking us… then I would try to figure out the fuel trim issue…. you could try a new coolent sencor just in case that one was bad… next you will have to check the continuity of the wire and recheck the coninity of the fuse’s… maybe relay but doutful… thech check wireing diagram and see if anything is in between it like some sub system maybe a fan or something wierd… other then the ECU I dont know what else…
heey thanks again for the help.
now what i did was i stipt the wire and put the volt meter on it and is was showing 5 volt
then i detach the wire from the sensor and the connectors where a litle stretched so i fixt that
now its working good again. I reset the code and hope its never coming back.but the engine is still running rough and the Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1 is still on 50% and bank 2 stil around 25% bank 2 changes bank 1 das not
i did a vacumleak test but I diddnt see or hear anything
I also cleand the maf sensor with maf sensor cleanerhow do you diagnose a bad o2 sensor ? thats the next step right ??
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