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hello….this truck has been parked for the past 7 plus years. i want to get it running again. the original motor has been replaced with a factory rebuild…and about 7000km on it. I have it on stands…all brakes need doing….rear pinion seal shows signs of leakage…..needs new shocks…brake cylinders…emergency cables…etc. But before i continue any further i need to get it running. The oil is up to level and appears in good condition.
The rad is empty….hoses dont have any apparent holes or cracks.
And of course the battery is dead…lolI am going to siphon the gas tank…..add a few gallons…..siphon again…..add 2 gallons and a fuel stabilizer.
Does it make sense to add a few 2-3 drops of auto tranni fluid to each cylinder ???
Although the oil looks good…..would some sea-foam in the crankcase be good??I just dont want to do anything stupid before i attempt to restart this motor.
Thank you all…roger
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Definitely get rid of the stale gas. If the tank is metal it could be full of rust.
If it has a fuel filter pull it once fresh fuel is in. disable the ignition and crank
to purge the fuel line catching the fuel. Try to hand crank the engine at the crank
bolt to see if it does roll over free. Remove the plugs to do this. See if its free before
any fluid down the cylinders. Don’t try any cleaners and what not. Lets get R to run first.agreed with the above, also depending on where its been sitting take a quick look under the dash and in the engine compartment before putting a new battery in – never know what mice/squirrels have been chewing on and is now shorting out…. have a fire extinguisher handy just in case (and incase fuel sprays everywhere causing a fire) and have someone with ya if all possible in case all hell breaks loose…
When it comes to cars that have been sitting, I say change all the fluids. All of them. Oil, ATF, P/S Fluid, Brake fluid, add new coolant. Change every filter you can and clean at least the transmission pan. Who knows what is sitting in the bottom of that pan. Clean the magnets off (there should be a magnet or two). So far as the cylinders are concerned, I would just put some oil down the cylinders with the spark plugs out. ATF is decent, but the fact of the matter is that ATF has detergents in it that will strip a lot of oil of the cylinder walls. Not what you want for a dry start. I am conflicted about the use of ATF for the reasons you want. I really don’t think it would hurt but if your engine is a little sticky from sitting I would recommend using penetrating oil and putting some of that down the cylinders.
When it comes to the stale gas, everyone is right that you need to get rid of it. Just make sure the fuel pump works. If you fill the tank with new gas and then find out your pump is garbage, you’re gonna have a bad time. Turn the key to the run position and you will hear it prime the lines. Late 90’s GM fuel pumps were loud — especially on trucks — you should have no issue hearing it. If it primes, it should be good to run. I would get an inline fuel filter rated for fuel injection and run one or even two inline to make sure nothing bad gets to the injectors and clogs them up.
Let us know how everything goes. I am an older car guy even though I am actually younger. I know alot about cars that sit cause I see it all the time. I’m no expert by any means, but I have seen my share of old cars that have been sitting.
Thanks to all who have responded to date. Here is the update…..Removed all the spark plugs and got a ratchet on the crank….it rolled over with very little effort….yeehaaaaa. The gas tank is BONE DRY…..the cap was on and none of the lines were left open….so should i remove the filler neck from the tank and investigate…..or just put about 8 gallons of fuel in it / then remove the gas line at the filter { with a catch bucket etc }..and turn the key on and off a bunch of times to make sure that the fuel pump works and to purge the line at least to the filter. And then install a new filter .
Now for the radiator….it was also BONE DRY…..all the hoses seem to be in good shape { gonna change them anyways as they are original}….will install a new thermostat…..should i just fill it with water and flush it before putting antifreeze in it??
Thanks again everybody…..let me know your thoughts and tricks…..Roger :woohoo:
So far as the gas tank is concerned, yeah, put gas in it and just see what happens. Use some inline filters after you hook the system back up, though.
As for the flush of the radiator, pull the thermostat and the heater core valve (they go bad) and flush it with water. You could also put the radiator cap on check for leaks once there is some pressure in the system.
Hi all….finally finished the electrical issues i was having….did a few fuel pressure tests…was within specs ( good news )…..flushed the rad and topped up with distilled water…changed the oil and filter…changed the fuel filter….changed the plugs ….new battery…..new air filter….so it was finally ready to fire it up…had to get a six pack ( either to smile or cry with…lol )……turned it over ….and vroom….ran it for like 30 seconds. Ran it 3 more times for like 1 minute each time….checked for leaks etc…all was good…..ran it for 30 minutes….fuel pressure was constant through different rpms…..i am happy so far. It is good to hear it running after like 7 plus years…..
Now its on to other things….brakes…suspension….rear pinion seal….
Thanks to all of you for your input so far……let me know your preferences for parts and your tricks ……cheers…roger :woohoo:
Now that the engine is running good…its time to redo both front and rear brakes completely. The shocks need to be replaced as well.
I would like to know your preference for rotors / calipers / pads. I would estimate that the mileage that is gonna be put on this truck will be 50 / 50 blacktop / gravel. I am replacing the emergency cable system ( imagine that…lol )…..as well as all brake cylinders. Thanks again everyone.
Roger :woohoo:I have proceeded to doing all 4 shocks. wd40’d all the bolts like for 3 days. The rear shocks did not give me much of a problem. But the front ones are a real (GRRRR)….put a vicegrip on the stem and a 13mm wrench on the nut…all it did was spin the stem in the vicegrip. Made the vicegrip as tight as i could get it….and tried again…it spun the stem again…now i have a rounded stem. So proceeded to loosen the bolts on the bottom of the front shocks….first tried a ratchet….no luck…..proceeded to a cheater bar…and broke the damn bolt right off!!!!!!
The broken bolt is not stopping me from removing the shock…but i need to get that bolt out so i can install the new one…..
As far as the upper stem/nut goes….i could cut it off with a metal blade in my recip saw.Your thoughts and ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
cheers…..roger
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