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So here is my story. I bought this car about 5 years ago from someone my dad worked with for real cheap (first warning sign). It has always had a issue with overheating while at a long idle or in stop and go traffic (most likely bad head gasket). The main sign is that my coolant system is under A LOT of pressure! I have blown 3 radiators in 5 years! And while at idle I have very little heat even though the temp gauge may begin to rise.
I finally got around to doing the head gasket and sending the head off to be machined and rebuilt about 2 months ago. Got the car back together and started driving it again. I still have excessive pressure in my coolant system. Like to the point that the coolant hoses feel like bicycle tires!
I have replaced the radiator, water pump and housing, hoses and heater hoses, Factory thermostat, new cap, and back flushed the whole system twice before replacing the head. I have had it suggested to me that the head may have a “micro fissure” in between the coolant pathway and the exhaust ports of the head. I do not lose any coolant (or at least nothing noticeable in the last 2 months). It does not smoke and it runs like a champ (still get about 30+mpg mixed city/highway).
If the head shop (hehe-“Head 👿 shop”) did not catch the crack/fissure should I assume it is to small to be noticed under a normal check and I should just replace with new/refurb from a parts place?? Should I take everything back apart and let the shop check the head again (already out #350 for the first time) and hope they can catch something a second time around? Try some “liquid Glass” or other sealer even though the leak seems to be a one way leak?
I’m still driving the car daily! I just do whatever it takes to not get stuck in traffic! Whenever I do I can smell the coolant/exhaust leaking out the reservoir (even though I never seem to be able to see any bubbles when it is setting at idle or I’m revving it up).
Kinda at a fork here… The body is in great shape with almost no rust (for a car from Northern Indiana that is almost unheard of!!) and I have already put $$$ in the suspension and other repairs to make it ride better than new. The Trans does have a bit of slip in the winter when cold but other than that it is a great car for 17yrs old and 215K mi. So the forks go: 1. More $$ for another round of head repair and eventual trans work 2. Get rid of it before anything else goes wrong (but I love the car) 3. Drive it till it dies! …..Currently I’m at fork #3 but if time and money become available I may go fork #1 (or fork #4: a nice JDM Engine/Trans with under 80K would be awesome!!)
Anyone one else had a similar issue/problem?? Everybody on the Toyota Camry forums say to either buy a new head or go JDM, but right now I barely have the money to drive it till it blows! Any one in the Indianapolis, In area want to look at a headache maker with me?? Advice/Help/Words Of Wisdom are appreciated!
Thanks In Advance
-James
’97 Camry 215K
’98 Bravada 220K
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Things to check:
* do the radiator fans run ?
*. Have you bled the air out of the system?
*. Are you running the right mix of water and antifreeze? The right radiator cap?
One thing that is a clue– you should not be going through radiators that quickly. Are you using cheep radiators, or have a lot of air in the system, or are using just water, or perhaps the wrong kind of antifreeze?
Your idea about the pressure being too high is puzzling…. The pressure really can’t go too high, if you have the right radiator cap. The coolant boiling point sets the temp and the cap sets the pressure and max temp before boiling.
Good luck.
+1 for checking the cooling fans. They should run when the car is up to temperature (Half way on the temp gauge) check they run when you turn the A/C on as well. Firstly go for a drive (say about 10min) and pop the bonnet. Feel the upper radiator hose first then feel the lower radiator hose. They should both be hot. If the lower radiator hose is cool then you have a thermostat issue. I have seen aftermarket thermostats be rather useless as well, so if there is a problem with it buy one from Toyota as they are still pretty cheap. When you say your not getting a lot of heat through the heater it certainly sounds like its leaning towards air in the cooling system or a thermostat. But before jumping straight to that check the basics first. If your not sure about the thermostat, the best test is to just remove it from the car and drive around for a while and that will tell you.
By just saying one head, I am assuming this is a 2.2L.
Have you bled the cooling system? As stated, little heat from the heater is suspect…
How did the head look when you removed it? Was it oil-gelled? (2.2L had this problem, but not as bad as the 3.0)… Causes overheating….
Here are some links about that…
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/the-black-death-of-sludge/index.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
Check the cooling fans for proper operation as well. Also a pressure tester on the system may show if there are any issues.
One last thing… check for heater core leakage… To do this, feel the back seat floor on the drivers side… the Heater core is just below the radio in the front center console. (but it is real easy to replace)… when they leak, sometimes the fluid goes into the vent ducting and comes out the back passenger side…. Not that this is your issue, but just checking everything… Another test is to run the defrost and note for a fogging up front window…
Before I pulled the head, I would confirm the problem with a block test… Eric has a video for that…
If you do decide to re-check the head, ensure they use dye when they check it for cracks…
-Karl
You can’t tell if there is 10 psi or 30 psi in a cooling system by squeezing the hoses. Fix the air flow to the rad core or cooling fan issue and your problem should be corrected.
Sounds like you’re making a lot of assumptions here. The first is that your overheat in traffic or during a long idle is caused by a head gasket failure. This is NOT what a head gasket failure normally does. It IS a classic symptom of a failed cooling fan however. Also, you MUST bleed the air from the cooling system ANYTIME you service it. Failure to do so will possibly trap air in the system which causes the overheat.
The other suggestions in this thread are great. I suggest you follow them and do a little diagnosis before purchasing any more expensive parts. Much of this is outlined in this article as well.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
Good luck and keep us posted.
Sorry for the delayed reply: I have been busy at work and last weekend had a out of town wedding to go to (more like a wedding/campout/mini music fest with 3 bands!! loads of fun!!!).
** do the radiator fans run ?
– Yes! They do turn on and when they do the temp drops real quick.
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**. Have you bled the air out of the system?
– Yes… Sorta. The 2.2 does not have a bleeder valve but I let the engine warm up well beyond the opening of the thermostat with the front end jacked up good and high and the radiator cap off till I no longer see any bubbles. I also first fill the block via the top radiator hose to try and work as many air pockets out that way first.
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**. Are you running the right mix of water and antifreeze? The right radiator cap?
– well… I am not running the recommended “Toyota Pink Antifreeze” but instead the typical “green” 50/50 premix Prestone. I have read that the Pink stuff is basically a variant of DEXCOOL and with the possibility of air entering the system I really do not want to end up with Dexsludge!
– Radiator cap has been tested and opens right at 13psi.
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*One thing that is a clue– you should not be going through radiators that quickly. Are you using *cheep *radiators, or have a lot of air in the system, or are using just water, or perhaps the wrong *kind of *antifreeze?
– The radiators are a good quality. New from a local parts store (good friend is a Manager there and recommended this brand as being the best of the brands they sell). They have all cracked at the exact same spot: Just to the left of the inlet hose where a visible seam is in the plastic! I have read that it is common for this seam to split on any brand unless you want to spend the $$$ for a solid unit.*How did the head look when you removed it? Was it oil-gelled? (2.2L had this problem, but not as *bad as the 3.0)… Causes overheating….
– Honestly it looked decent! No real gelling. I was surprised myself knowing the gelling issue with this engine.I am currently leaning more towards air still in the system because I have been occasionally checking the hoses when I get home from work and they don’t seem to be under pressure like they used to! I do on occasion smell hot coolant when I’m stopped at a light or in stopped traffic, that may just be the last of the bubbles making their way out of the system. When I say that it overheats I am not saying that it “gets into the red” it just starts to rise to about the 2/3 – 3/4 portion of the gauge (normally runs at 1/2) and then the fans kick in and it cools almost instantly. I have never had a vehicle’s temp jump and drop as fast as this one will do. Maybe it is just the way it is designed.
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