Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 1997 plymoth van. 3.0 engine tricky to start
- This topic has 39 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 11 months ago by EricTheCarGuy.
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November 5, 2012 at 2:25 am #474154
ok so this 3.0 needed a new fuel pump. there was no fuel psi. so i put the new pump in. i first started it with start fluid then the fuel pump was able to take over from there. but i cant get the car to start with out starter fluid.
the oul is nasty but not low.
the battery has to get jumped each time before starting as well.
also the pump is working. i hear it every time i turn the key to prime it.
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November 5, 2012 at 2:31 am #474155
Recommended Diagnostics:
- check fuel pressure
- check fuel volume
- check spark quality
- check battery
- check alternator
shake what yo’ mamma gave ya’. banana:
November 5, 2012 at 2:35 am #474158there is fuel psi.
there is sufficent fuel for the engine.
the battery is crap
the alternator is good.November 5, 2012 at 2:52 am #474159when was the last time you cleaned ye’ throttle body :whistle:
November 5, 2012 at 3:01 am #474167its not my car just helping a friend from church out. but when i looked in from spraying starter fluid in it it looked just fine.
November 5, 2012 at 3:06 am #474168anyone ELSE have any ideas?
November 5, 2012 at 4:14 am #474197when you replace the fp did you replace the fuel filter?
http://www.ehow.com/how_6634689_replace-plymouth-voyager-fuel-filter.html
November 5, 2012 at 4:23 am #474199when you replace the fp did you replace the fuel filter?
the o.p. has already stated that his fuel volume is within specified limits and therefore the fuel filter does not need to be checked.
anyone ELSE have any ideas?
allow me to consult my magic 8 ball.
November 5, 2012 at 4:29 am #474201Ya there is plently of fuel psi. and the car runs fine, just when i start it i need to use starter fluid to get it going.
keeping in mind that the battary sucks [and every time i go to start it the car needs jumped] could this battery be so dead that it wont creat enugh power for the spark plugs to ignite gas but it will ignite the starter fluid. then the altinators power takes over and is suficent enugh to power the spark plugs more so they can now ignite gas as well. dose this sound something that could happen at all? ive only been a mechanic for a year now so im still learning these things
November 5, 2012 at 9:01 am #474243Hey boss. I had a 2003 ford ranger… I had it for years. When I first got it – It was hard to start – 30 secs of cranking before firing (warm or cold)… If i cycled the key a few times it would help… I changed fuel filters/socks and pumps but nothing realy helped. Altho It did go from 30 secs to 20 or so….
One day I went on a road trip 200 miles of straight driving… After that I never had the issue again.Right alway it was like wow.. Driving a engine on a nice long haul will always do more good then any fuel additive… High rpms + Fuel pump pumping fast – Injectors ejecting faster.
Most ppl add additives to there tank and just drive in town – This doesn’t allow the additive to work 100% with stop and go and on and off. Some additive can even do more harm then good. A- They can be a bad product from the get go or B- They could losen more grim in the lines or else wear and cause stuck injector/Filter/Pumps…
This can happen even more with stop and go / Off and on – Home to work – 5 mile trips vhechels.What can happen is(Lets say you leave work and go to the gas station and add your additive and top ur fuel tank… Then you go home 5 or 10/20 miles or so…
Yes/maybe the additive has started working -Maybe it has loosened some stuff up out of the tank… Now its pumping threw the crud threw the lines – By the time youv got home the lines/ejectors have the crud in them and there it will set until next fire up (Over night – Over the weekend so on) Sometimes the crud can start to gunk up again (In a ejector /filter/pump so on. Causing the car – Crank/NO START. or making the issue worse…So i suggest long driving is best for cleaning your fuel system.
If adding additives I suggest long driving even more…I hope this helps…
November 5, 2012 at 9:19 am #474245[quote=”bwebb” post=36517]Ya there is plently of fuel psi. and the car runs fine, just when i start it i need to use starter fluid to get it going.
keeping in mind that the battary sucks [and every time i go to start it the car needs jumped] could this battery be so dead that it wont creat enugh power for the spark plugs to ignite gas but it will ignite the starter fluid. then the altinators power takes over and is suficent enugh to power the spark plugs more so they can now ignite gas as well. dose this sound something that could happen at all? ive only been a mechanic for a year now so im still learning these things[/quote]
I would be hard pressed to think so… If you will feel this could be the issue. Get a spark tester and look for weak fire (You should see blue sparks) Orgenish fire indicates weak fire. (If theres a enf power to crank the engine theres enf to fire the plugs) You could have some bad plugs/wires.
Try cycling your keep… Turn your key on for 30 secs but do not crank then off for 30 then on again- Repeat a few times. (Make sure you turn the key fully on and listion for the fuel pump)
I recently work on a 09 mustang that was having to same issue… We looked at everything… Just by luck I noticed some one had messed with the throttle screw…
They had tryed to turn the idl up… I reset the screw and the issue was gone…
New cars – Timing and Idles is controled with the Ecm/Pcm on board computer messing with the dizzy or idle can cause many issues…Other things to check would be (TPS – Air Idle Controls – Air filters – Leaky intake or plenum. Lose hoses. (Check your air filter hoses/lines) Sometime these can get cracks in them a cause issues)
Setting here thinking about your comment – Sometime else that could be happening is (Maybe you are not getting enf power to the fuel pump/relay) This would make more since. If you battery’s weak – Cranking takes alote or power – then powering the computer/relays and all the other goodies – You could be getting weak power to the fuel pump) You may hear the pump engage but when the engine starts cranking your not maintaining the right amount of power…
Hope iv helped.
November 5, 2012 at 9:23 am #474247[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=36516]
when you replace the fp did you replace the fuel filter?
the o.p. already stated that his fuel volume is within specified limits and therefore the fuel filter does not need to be checked.
anyone ELSE have any ideas?
allow me to consult my magic 8 ball.[/quote]
Wrong… Not even near to being true.
Iv seen many engines pass fuel psi test and there steal be issues at the filter.
I can go into detail if you like.Maybe you should have got a auto repair manual instead of the 8ball?
November 5, 2012 at 9:26 am #474251Im sure one of the top guys like – Eric – dreamer – Mopar – will be popping in to help.
Hang tight bro.. We will get you threw this.
We need – Make – model – year – so on. Also any mods made to the engine.
November 5, 2012 at 10:34 am #474253Wrong… Not even near to being true.
Iv seen many engines pass fuel psi test and there steal be issues at the filter.
I can go into detail if you like.your mastery of the english language as well as your innate ability to eliminate all potential diagnosis is quite compelling; however, I will have to yield to you and say that you are indeed correct. that is why it is important to perform a “fuel volume” test. this will indicate any reduction in fuel flow that might be a result of a bad fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty fuel pressure regulator, vacuum leak, low voltage, high resistance or any other possible causes of reduced fuel flow. in general, a fuel volume test should indicate 20oz of fuel flow from the fuel rail schrader valve within 15 seconds. since you have previously stated that you’ve already tested fuel pressure as well as fuel flow and you have said they were both within spec, then there is no need to look at the fuel filter.
Maybe you should have got a auto repair manual instead of the 8ball?
I prefer to use AllData; not only is the information updated regularly as opposed to a repair manual, the subscription cost alone is probably more than what you make on a monthly basis.
have a nice day. :stick:
November 6, 2012 at 12:39 am #474346[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=36547]
Wrong… Not even near to being true.
Iv seen many engines pass fuel psi test and there steal be issues at the filter.
I can go into detail if you like.your mastery of the english language as well as your innate ability to eliminate all potential diagnosis is quite compelling; however, I will have to yield to you and say that you are indeed correct. that is why it is important to perform a “fuel volume” test. this will indicate any reduction in fuel flow that might be a result of a bad fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty fuel pressure regulator, vacuum leak, low voltage, high resistance or any other possible causes of reduced fuel flow. in general, a fuel volume test should indicate 20oz of fuel flow from the fuel rail schrader valve within 15 seconds. since you have previously stated that you’ve already tested fuel pressure as well as fuel flow and you have said they were both within spec, then there is no need to look at the fuel filter.
Maybe you should have got a auto repair manual instead of the 8ball?
I prefer to use AllData; not only is the information updated regularly as opposed to a repair manual, the subscription cost alone is probably more than what you make on a monthly basis.
have a nice day. :stick:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDnivh5Odfk%5B/quote%5D
If you read what I wrote…. I have seen many engines pass fuel pressure test and steal have issues and the filter….
Meaning… The filter may be allowing fuel to pass…. Over time the inside of the fuel filter can decay and start to brake down… http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/inside-old-fuel-filter-pics-28911/
Just like whats happen to this guy.
The filter can start to brake down inside and allowing fuel to flow and bits and peaces of the filter its self to pass to the ejectors or carb.Im sorry my mastery of the English language bothers you..
Now I myself have never went to school a day in my life… I had a dieing mother and 6 brothers and sisters to take care of let alone my self… Knowing these facts – and the fact that Im self taught (I feeling im damn good and I do not need your approval let alone anyone else s)Maybe you need be the one to worry ABOUT YOUR SELF…..
READ WHAT I WROTE…Wrong… Not even near to being true.
Iv seen many engines pass fuel psi test and there steal be issues at the filter.
I can go into detail if you like. ISSUES CAN VARY MY FRIEND.By all means believe what you want….
A filter is around 10 to 30$ for most cars.
A ejector is around 75$+ X 4 at least for a engine…
Most fuel filter take 10 mins or so to change.
Most ejectors can take hours to change…’Do the math a then do the work and tell me how its does….
O and dont forget… You changed the ejectors but not the filter —-guess what your gonna kill a brand new set of ejectors for your self or some else….
All because you dont know what your talking about…I know my ejectors are 79.99$+ -If I spend over 100 let alone 600$ im changing the filter.
My point is….Its 15$ filter -change it. Things happen for a reason…
O BTW… Wanna keep try to belittle me – Feel free to go right ahead and do so. You will lose.
November 6, 2012 at 12:51 am #474350BTW lets talk about my income…. My income pays for a 3000$ gaming rige…
Lets see…
I dont pay for alldata.
I dont pay for desktop dyno.
I dont pay for dyno 2000.
I dont pay for any haynes books…
I dont pay for for any software…
I didn even pay for window 7 or windows 8.
Because I Have the money not to pay…..
Im a programer son… Chances are your been on one of my many torrents.
I make the stuff your paying for free. I make it free because some ppl can afford help.
But you woulden know that… You walk around life pretending to be some one.
You walk around life pretending to know what your talking about..And the 3000$ is just in the tower alone….
Lets not for get my 4 52ich eyefinity set up…
My keyboard cost more the a tire on your car or truck…Thats just one pay check.
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