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Eric, I would love to see the timing chain video. I plan on replacing the timing chain on my Maxima soon so seeing that video would help me out a lot considering there both Nissans and have the same layout. Different engines however.
I’m “old school”.
I was taught that all high voltage “connection” points (rotor tip and center, contacts inside of the cap, contacts outside of the cap, inside the plug boots) should have a dab of silicon dielectric grease. It prevents stray arcing which leads to carbon tracks. It does not seem like anyone does this any more. :S A bit inside the plug boot makes them slip on easier and not adhere to the plug in the future.
Comments anyone ?
Eric, I was just thinking. A fancy scanner like a SnapOn Solus would have shown you the short term trim which probably would have lead you to the vacuum leak quicker.
Ready to drop some serious coin ?
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=62424]I’m “old school”.
I was taught that all high voltage “connection” points (rotor tip and center, contacts inside of the cap, contacts outside of the cap, inside the plug boots) should have a dab of silicon dielectric grease. It prevents stray arcing which leads to carbon tracks. It does not seem like anyone does this any more. :S A bit inside the plug boot makes them slip on easier and not adhere to the plug in the future.
Comments anyone ?[/quote]
I do put a very thin layer of silicone grease inside the plug boots too!
Now when I go to remove the boots I don’t have to fight, so the wires don’t get pulled and this, I think, helps prevent “human” damage to them.
Thanks for sharing your insight! 🙂
Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)
10nico
Another old school trick to find high voltage “leakage” and all it takes is a garage and a small flashlight
In a completely darken garage, open the hood and then start the car (don’t worry about a closed garage door, this will take less than 5 minutes).
Get out of the car and put both hands in your pockets and LEAVE THEM THEHRE ! (unless you want to be known as Johnny 9 fingers). Walk around the front and look for “blue lightening, around the wires, and and coil(s). If you see any, use your flashlight to visualize where it is coming from. A fine mist of water (like Eric used in the video) may help.
Eric,
Thanks for doing what you do, I’m learning a lot when watching your videos. Wish I had more time to watch 😉
I have 3 questions from this video:
1. What made you decide to give up on the computer codes and go for the injector testing?
2. I like the test of the injectors by pulling off the connectors, however, what do you do on engines where the injectors are under an intake manifold or otherwise unreachable? What’s an easy way to test those?
3. I just watched your video on vac leaks finding, but it didn’t mention using water instead of carb cleaner as you suggested in the above video. So how do you use water? just a mist, or how much do you use?
Thanks,
Julian
[quote=”juels98″ post=62507]Eric,
Thanks for doing what you do, I’m learning a lot when watching your videos. Wish I had more time to watch 😉
I have 3 questions from this video:
1. What made you decide to give up on the computer codes and go for the injector testing?
2. I like the test of the injectors by pulling off the connectors, however, what do you do on engines where the injectors are under an intake manifold or otherwise unreachable? What’s an easy way to test those?
3. I just watched your video on vac leaks finding, but it didn’t mention using water instead of carb cleaner as you suggested in the above video. So how do you use water? just a mist, or how much do you use?
Thanks,
Julian[/quote]
My experience with Nissans is that they sometimes have injector issues. It’s quite common in my experience. That’s the main reason I went for the injectors. I know I had a mixture issue, I just wasn’t sure what was causing it.
With a power balance test you can disable the injectors OR the ignition, it’s a matter of preference really.
I didn’t mention using water in the original video but I have used it in videos since. The Civic misfire video comes to mind. I got a lot more practiced at making my videos as time went on and as a result I’ve been including more information.
[quote=”wysetech” post=62780]Looked to me that the parts needed to be replaced anyway.[/quote]
Short answer … NO !Eric was correct, though. Those parts probably cost less than $100 total. Cheap.
Most techs at shops use smoke machines now to find the vacuum leaks. Im glad Eric shows the way DIYers can do this at home without expensive tools.
And even though he did stumble with the ignition tune-up, at least he shows the steps leading to the conclusion,and the things that you should be looking at when diagnosing a misfire.
great video eric
Hey Eric, Loved this video, used it to repair my daughters ’97 Altima. I did exactly the same tune up prior to watching your video, that also did little towards the real problem, exhaust mani leak. But now the same car has intermittent engine stall issues when idling in park or stopped in traffic, it idles erratically then stalls. It occurs one day, multiple times, then its fine for a couple days then reoccurs. Its got me nervous for her, and stumped as to the problem, any ideas ??
[quote=”Jer14golf” post=82464]Hey Eric, Loved this video, used it to repair my daughters ’97 Altima. I did exactly the same tune up prior to watching your video, that also did little towards the real problem, exhaust mani leak. But now the same car has intermittent engine stall issues when idling in park or stopped in traffic, it idles erratically then stalls. It occurs one day, multiple times, then its fine for a couple days then reoccurs. Its got me nervous for her, and stumped as to the problem, any ideas ??[/quote]
It would be best to post your issue to the forum rather than on this video. It will work better for the database, and you will also get a lot more input if you create it’s own topic. In the mean time you might want to read through this.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
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