Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › The EricTheCarGuy Video Forum › 1997 Nissan 2.4L Intake Gasket Replacement
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June 7, 2013 at 3:06 pm #528203
The saga continues with the Altima. In this 2 part video I replace the intake gasket on this Nissan 2.4L engine. I have to admit, it wasn’t fun.
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June 18, 2013 at 7:29 pm #530895
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=63881]2 questions
- Would it been faster to pull the engine ?
- Why no gasket cement on the replacement gasket ?
When that alternator goes, I hope it is a lot easier ![/quote]
No, it would not have been faster to pull the engine.
If the gasket ever goes again and you put gasket adhesive on the gasket, you’d have a heck of a time getting it off. Also, I’m not a fan of using ANYTHING on any gasket you install. They make gaskets for a reason, gooping them up with crap only makes a mess to clean up later, it does nothing to help them seal better.
June 20, 2013 at 12:25 pm #531294Hi Eric, fantastic video and nice job by the way. 🙂
I have also a 97 Nissan Cefiro, I don’t know if you have them in the state. Its a 2.0 24V V6 engine AT.I’m in the Philippines by the way.:)
My question is, I also have a performance issues with my car. Every time you put it to drive the rpm will drop slightly like the engine will stall. I tried adjusting the idle from the idle cable just to fix this. But the rpm range will go above 1000 rpm. When you put it back to N. Then when I saw your video I was thinking that probably we might have the same problem as the Nissan altima. I have 125k plus on my mileage.
Things that we already fixed with the engine:
1. Check spark plug but its ok, but we eventually bought a brand new one just for the sake of it. Its NGK.
2. We also cleaned the knock sensor like you did in the altima but still the same.
3. We also change the high tension wire to a brand new one.
4. The only thing we did not check its the code if where having any misfire?But when we rev it the idle will normalize, as just you said in the video.
April 8, 2017 at 9:43 am #878923Holy effing S, I just did this repair last weekend. 2000 Nissan Altima, which has similar hardware.
I would have to agree with Eric’s assessment that the job is not for the fainthearted. I had a quote for ~$750 “if we don’t break all this stuff along the way and bring the cost to $1200″ and Nissan and another mechanic advised me to start looking for another car so… staying dirty.
Just thought I would add a few notes here to help others prep for the job. Strong extendable magnet tool is an absolute requirement, the screw removal method Eric showed is the best method I found.
Regarding fastener access:
– Most of the fasteners [2 nuts (on the studs) and hex cap screws} holding the manifold to the engine are accessible with a standard 12mm combination wrench. Outer ones are reachable with a standard 3/8″ ratchet (flex/swivel socket or universal joint and 1/4” drive sizes are nice too)– Two lower screws are next to impossible without some specialty tools, I would recommend picking up a 10mm-12mm box end half-moon/obstruction wrench before you start the job; this is a really obscure tool, especially in 12mm, but if you get in there you will understand the need, likely what the engineer(s) had in mind
– I ended up bending the 12mm end of a box wrench in a vice to conform to the shape I needed, that worked for me because 12mm half-moon wrenches are not carried at my local auto stores on Saturday night… and I had to report to work on Monday.
Adjustments to Eric’s procedure:
– Removing the lower part of the manifold is unnecessary. Once the 10 fasteners on the gasket joint are removed, and fasteners on both the link (bracket) on the lower belt side of the engine and bracket under the throttle body are removed, the manifold is free to move.
– The studs on my engine had a hex end that I could loosen with a ratchet and socket, easier than the vise grips
– Be prepared to do some scraping to remove that old gasket, Eric’s seems to have come off fairly easily, mine was really stuck on in some places and that surface is hard to access with the manifold slightly constrained in position still. I would recommend getting a thin, long handled scraper to hit up both sides of that 1-2 inch gap. You may want some gasket removal solution too.
Good luck, it can be done!
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