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I am currently running rich, and I followed ETCG’s advice to tackle any CELs first. I was getting p420. As per ETCG, I used an infrared thermometer, and it was 100 degrees hotter going in to the Catalytic converter, than going out. I replaced cat as recommended in ETCG’s videos. Upon removal, the cat was internally destroyed, even the O2 sensor was broken. There was a noticeable performance improvement, which I originally thought was a slipping transmission on my 219,000 mile 1997 Honda Accord LX. Now seems to shift better. I checked for exhaust leaks after replacing the Cat, it looks great. But
Seems better, but theres still a problem. It’s still running rich. Not as rich as it was before the new Cat was installed, but it’s still rich. The CEL is gone now, and exhaust rattles now, but not the reason why it’s running rich…
After warming up, the car likes to sit at about 800-850 RPMS. Normally, I believe the car should be at 650-700RPMS. I’d love to know where to look next, or what could be causing a rich condition.
If Eric could tackle a running rich video, I would love to know what needs to be looked at there.
As per ETCG’s video recommendation, I’ve checked basics. Air filter, and spark plugs are new. Wires are original(i think, may have been replaced at 100K) but are factory wires, do not appear to have any issues. The fuel filter is old, I will be replacing that soon. New cap and rotor will be ordered soon too. Coolant has been bleed and filled to the video’s specs, to ensure there is no air in the coolant. I replaced both O2 Sensors at the same time.
What do you guys think?
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Sooooo… How do you know you running RICH?
Higher idle? But idle is regulated by air flow, not by petrol. Believe it or not, it was quite discovery for me, only about 2 years ago, after working on cars since 1990, that petrol engine is run by air flow, not by petrol supply. Basically, you allow more or less air (oxygen) in. The so called “gas pedal” is actually air flow pedal.
Engines with too high petrol injection have tendency to choke and have starting issues. High idle is more towards either mechanical cause – too tight throttle plate cable, sticky plate, e.g. or, you have air leak somewhere, causing too much air get in and actually LEAN condition.Higher idle is a different, but possibly related symptom. The exhaust smells of fuel, and is visible more translucent looking than it should be.
I did a sweep looking for a vacuum leak previously. I will give the engine another sweep looking for a vacuum leak again. I originally thought the Cat and O2 sensors would solve the problem. Since they seem to be measuring air properly, I’m now looking elsewhere for the the culprit. I have not had any real problems starting and certainly holds fine at idle. Starting up, it seems I have to hold the key a second longer than I probably should have to. At your excellent suggestions, I will check:
-Vacuum leaks again
-Cleaning the throttle body with Carb cleaner(haven’t done, but it was on my future to do list anyway).I can rule out too tight of a throttle cable, as it has at times settled down to 650 RPMS. I’ll see if I can get these done today. Thanks for the suggestions. I would love to hear more.
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