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fuel pump for sure. you should have 30-40psi also you said it run on starting fluid check the inertia switch in the trunk its behind the carpet i forget which side you will know it looks like a red button make sure its not tripped it works like a circuit breaker push it down if it clicks it was tripped if not it was not tripped if it wasn’t tripped i would replace the fuel pump just my 2 cents hope it helps keep us updated
I just replaced a fuel pump which was only putting out 9 psi compared to spec which was 49 psi The way I checked pressure was at the feed line coming out of the tank ( which was 9 psi) and the fuel rail (which was also 9 psi) that way I knew that because the pressure was the same at both points anything in between was good. Ya the fuel pump could be heard running but the pressure was low I replaced the pump with a new one ( found a new pump motor only for $22.00, took the old one out of the module and put the new one in and my 1996 Neon, with 271,000 + miles on it, is back as a daily driver of 150+ miles/day M-F
A new pump module would have cost me anywhere between $80 – $250 but if you can find a new motor only and not have to replace the whole module for me that’s the way to go. I also got 2 new fuel strainers whih the new motor and it has a lifetime warranty. My module was very easy to do the pump motor replacement.
You can email me or call if you want info on how I test my pump modules with the fuel pressure gauge before I do the install in the tank. Look at the bottom of this post. Hope this helps they have new motor here for $20. shipped and lifetime warranty http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GLOBAL-AUTOMOTIVE-FUEL-PUMP-STRAINER-FORD-MERCURY-VEHICLES-GA2303-/150816609745?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ATaurus&vxp=mtr&hash=item231d5ed5d1#ht_1640wt_1090I forgot to mention that I did check the inertia switch, and it was not tripped. I tried to push the button down but no click. Thanks for that info and I think a new pump is soon to come.
John,
I was going to try and test this line going to the filter, but do not have a fitting to hook into the quickconnect. I will see if I can come up with something this afternoon. Thanks for the post to that fuel pump. Is it really an airtex pump??? You bought from the same vendor, so just want to make sure that it is an airtex pump. If so I will probably order one of those as I am helping a neighbor and money does not grow on trees. Thanks for the links, and I will keep you posted.
Robert
your diagnostic of the fuel pump sounds correct. you could do one more test
to see if 12v is being supplied to the FPThanks for the input, but I can not locate the connector or a spot to access it. I watched a video of Ericthecarguy replacing a fuel pump in a 99 Taurus and noticed that he could only see it once dropping the tank?? Maybe there is an easier way??? If anyone knows of a way to access the fuel pump plug, please let me know.
Robert
[b]Quoted From RobertBaxley03:
Is it really an airtex pump??? You bought from the same vendor, so just want to make sure that it is an airtex pump. If so I will probably order one of those as I am helping a neighbor and money does not grow on trees. Thanks for the links, and I will keep you posted.
Robert
I really don’t know but the pump I needed and bought is a different one than that you need for a Taurus I connected a small piece of fuel line tube to the quick connect pipe with a worm gear clamp then connected my pressure gauge to the other end. Kinda like this but the module was still in the vehicle. Picture shows how I test the new pump for pressure before installation into the tank. Hope this helps Yes, the fluid in the green trash can is some of what I drained out of the tank when I emptied the tank before I removed it from the vehicle and filtered it. I also rigged up thi old pump to filter gas at its low 9 psi through a new filter to recycle the dirty gas and reuse it in the lawnmower.
+1 on a fuel pump issue, that pressure is way too low and since you seem to have already checked the fuel psi regulator I would say that it’s likely you have a problem with the fuel pump and since you’ve already watched the video I think you have a pretty
Thanks Eric. I will keep this updated. Once I find out if the fuel pump is the culprit, I will mark this thread answered. The fuel pump has been ordered and will hopefully make it by Saturday.
Robert
Quoted From RobertBaxley03:
Thanks Eric. I will keep this updated. Once I find out if the fuel pump is the culprit, I will mark this thread answered. The fuel pump has been ordered and will hopefully make it by Saturday.
Robert
Test the pump module after you install the new pump motor before you install the module in the tank.
Don’t forget, it’s very important, you’ve been doing all this testing on the fuel pump and straining the relay for the pump. When you change the pump, make sure you change the relay. Of course the relay may be good, but it might only last you a week, a day, or maybe even a year or two. That doesn’t mean the relay is good. Just replace it for about $35.
EndSupremacy,
Thank you for the input, but the relay is just doing its job. If testing the fuel pump a few times by turning the key on ruins the relay, then wouldn’t driving the car for a week do the same thing??? The relay is also easily accesable if something was to happen at a latter date. Not being rude in any way, I am just trying to understand your reasoning behinde replaceing something that “Might” go bad.
Robert
heck even if the relay does fail just swap it out with an identical relay from the AC or maybe the horn (not too familiar with fords) and drive it to the auto parts store and buy a relay. Or a paper clip works too 😉
Ok, maybe I didn’t choose the right words. Whenever a component goes bad (in your case the fuel pump) it starts to work really hard to work properly. It begins to use more amps to work. More amperage going through a relay that was only made to handle a lower amount will start to wear the relay down. I also don’t think you understand how a relay works. You can’t just choose a relay here or there and put it where it doesn’t belong. Also, replacing a relay with a paper clip will not work. It is a physical impossibility. Relays work with internal coils that magnetize and satisfy the circuit. You can’t do that with a paper clip. All I was trying to say was when you replace the fuel pump, just change the relay.
Well, I decided to pull the tank and test the fuel pump. This was not a hard task and once I pulled the tank and opened it up, I found the problem. Here is one of Eric’s videos for reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2TrjxYLyj4
Fast forward to 9:50. Somehow, the two screws that hold this piece on worked their way off and where laying on top of the fuel pump. This piece then worked itself loose and was allowing all the volume to escape. I reinstalled the two screws, slid the tank under the car hook up the feed return and electrical and what do you know perfect fuel pressure and she purred like a kitten. I reinstalled the tank and helped the neighbor for cheaper than I thought. Thanks for all the help.
Robert
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