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I just picked me up a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4wd with a 360 in it. Truck ran great when I bought it saturday. I knew it needed a tune up and a new charcoal canister and tps sensor. I did the tune up ( plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and pcv valve) replaced the canister and purge valve ( the insides of the canister disenegrated and got all inside the lines so I had to empty the lines and replace the valve and canister) and threw on a new tps. Now, the truck will start, but will not stay running unless I have my foot on the throttle. If I try to let it idle, it will die. Idk if this is a coincidence or something I did. I can’t imagine it is. I’ve checked all my work over and over and everything is correct. When I’m reving it, it definitely stinks of fuel like it’s running rich. I have a pending code but it’s not stored yet and a p1391. Cam and crank signal interfernce. But I know the crank works, the scan tool is picking up the rpm reading. But I don’t see it being the pick up coil because I’m getting spark. It will run. I’m lost. I’m gonna take the throttle body off tomorrow and clean it and the idle air control motor. But does anybody else have any ideas?
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I’m not a Chrysler Tech, but I’ve worked on those trucks for friends. From what I’ve seen from working on them was “up front diagnosis” and an easy truck to work on…compared to others. After listing to the video it still sounds like a Cam/ Crankshaft sensor sync Issue especially with a pending DTC P1391…..maybe distributor rotor not in position….? I guess you have a scan tool and you checked the cam sensor for output. I know Chrysler has a Cam/ Crankshaft sensor sync on their scan tool, but if you did not move the distributor it should not be needed. There is a manual check for camshaft sensor sync, but the distributor cap has to come back off.
As Eric stated about the TPS “check adjustments” I found this in the internet: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm.
The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump on that truck.
One other thing… try disconnecting the battery for 1 minute and restart.I did try the battery thing, I made sure it was good also. I’ve tried the pcm reset with disconnecting the negative battery cable with the key in the on position for 30 seconds. How would I do the manual check for the sensor sync? My scan tool is just on my phone and I can read live data and such. Nothing too fancy like one of those snap ons, though I wish I can afford one. Lol. I will try the tps adjustment now. And make sure my firing order is correct. I’ll get back to you in about an hour.
Actually looking at my sensor (TPS) as I was doing these tests I’ve realized mine isn’t slotted. It can only go in there one way and can not be adjusted. I mean you can put it in upside down lol. But other than that it will only go in one way the right way. So I couldn’t even adjust it.
If this issue was not present before the tune up, I would only consider the firing order at this point. Books can have missprints and the intake manifold can be misunderstood. Look it up online with an image search, save several versions of it then double check it on the engine. It could be off by just one position all the way around the distributor. That alone would definitely cause all the backfiring and stalling.
Those TPS readings aren’t good. It should read at least 5% when closed and higher than 70% when floored. I know you say it’s not adjustable, but if that’s what the computer is seeing, it may never activate the idle circuit. I still believe your issue resides there. You can also take readings directly from the sensor itself by back probing the connector. You’re looking for around .5 volts closed throttle and close to 5v when it’s WOT.
Please keep us updated.
Well gents, I decided to focus on the firing order like peshawa suggested. Instead though I found TDC on my cylinder number 1. Guess where the rotor was pointing? Cylinder number 8. One off from where cylinder 1 is supposed to start. Decided to redo my wires, fired her up and she idles runs, does it it all. Now, my tps readings, I was getting my 5 volt refrence. But I didn’t back probe the connector. I tried actually and was scared to hurt the connector honestly. I couldn’t probe it correctly even using a paperclip. I’m gonna search for some tpins. I know I have some somewhere. But also, now my distributor firing order is 1 off from the factory design. Is this going to be okay? Or something I should look into fixing? And also, it runs just a tad bit rough not much. My plugs are completely gone though.. and I just replaced them. They’re as black as the night. Think if I throw new ones in it’ll be okay?
Edit: after some reving and checking things out, it’s still backfiring through the intake around 2500rpm. Not too bad though. Tells me the timing is still a bit off.
You have to get #1 where it belongs on the distributor. If you don’t your Cam/ Crankshaft sensor sync will not be at factory specs. Get your engine at top dead center at the crankshaft pulley, remove the distributor cap, make sure the distributor rotor is lined up with the index line indented were the distributor cap meets the camshaft sensor (indent is left side of dist.{9 O’clock}laying over engine your head against firewall) put #1 spark plug wire in cap where it belongs.
Found this link for the distributor:
http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/37aca-97-dodge-ram-1500-2wd-5-2-engine-skipping.html
Found this link for the TPS:
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.9L-5.2L-5.9L/how-to-test-the-tps-sensor-1
Let us know how and what repairs the truckBut reading that link he doesn’t answer the main question. Will I mess up my fuel sync putting my distributor back in the right way?
I’m not a Chrysler Tech….but… I would think putting the distributor back to factory specs, the way it was when you got the truck it should be ok. If the distributor was put in wrong and somehow someone sync the cam/crank you’re going to have to re-sync. In my thinking if that would have been done, I really don’t see how the engine would have run correctly.
Okay. Well my plugs already fouled out. So I’m gonna replace those tomorrow. But I’ll put the distributor back in the right way.. hopefully that’ll cure my backfire and I can take it to emissions. I keep getting a code for my purge solenoid again after replacing my bad one. But I knew it needed replaced because it was stuck open. Hopefully I can get it all squared away tomorrow figure it out and this truck will be back to normal. It’s been nothing but a hassle since I did that tune up.
Replaced my plugs. Changed distributor to get it as close as I could. It’s not a factory pick up coil so there was no notch on it. :l BUT put it all back together and she sounds AMAZING! Runs like brand new. No throttle lag no missing sounds loud. I thank you guys for ALL your help!!! Whoever put that distributor in just didn’t know what they were doing I guess. Now I have to fix my p0443 and this truck will be all set!
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