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1997 Chevy Blazer Fuel Gauge issue

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  • #543464
    Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
    Participant

      1997 Blazer 2-door 4.3L with 141k.

      Well we are back to the 97 Blazer with more fuel gauge issues. The issue is the gauge isn’t reading accurately once it gets down to 8 or 9 gallons of gas in the tank. The tank is a 19 gallon and it is in the very back because it’s a 2-door model. After driving for more than a half hour the gauge will sneak it’s way down to almost empty and sit there. Once I shut off and restart the Blazer the gauge will start reading closer to where it should be but is still off (lower) by about 1/8 of a tank. I also noticed when I first turn the key to the ON position but, not actually start the engine the fuel gauge will spike all the way past the full mark super fast then drop down towards a more actuate reading. It never did this until last night. Finally I am also getting gauge fluctuation when I step on the brake pedal, turn off or on any lights or accerories. The fuel gauge will move it bit and return to it’s current location.

      Back in March of this year I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit in the tank along with the 4-pin wire harness connecter. It seemed to correct this issue with the gauge not reading correctly and drifting to empty when I still had almost a half of a tank. Now the problem is back! I soldiered and heat shrunk the new connector for the fuel pump/sending unit to the main harness to prevent connection issues. I also used and AC-Delco pump/sending unit. To be honest this issues has gotten old. I was wondering if anyone out there has solved this problem and how?

      I also wanted to mention that I did some research and a few people online mentioned a “Fuel Gauge Buffer Module” under the glove box that is present in 1997 models and could be the cause. Anyone have any successful feedback on this? Thanks for reading!

      watch my yutube video… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwU_zScAeVo&feature=c4-overview&list=UUxrXIkYADgY4XzxP60IUeJg

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    • #543476
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        with the fuel needle spiking and then dropping seems like
        the connection is good. sounds like the sender unit again.

        #543557
        Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
        Participant

          Awhile ago i saw a video on YouTube about this. The video went through how to repair the sending unit so that the problem stays fixed. Apparently there are some shoddy tolerances with the plastic pieces used in the sending unit rheostat area. I don’t have the link handy, I’ll look for it again when I have a chance and post it here if I can find it.

          #543563
          Walter CherybaWalter Cheryba
          Participant

            Found it

            #543844
            Daniel DominBlazerguy1983
            Participant

              Thank you for your input! I was wondering if anyone out there could suggest maybe a brand of fuel pump/sending unit that won’t develop this issue again or at least so quickly? I watched the YouTube video on how to modify the sending unit to reduce the slop in the float meeting the resistor but, I would like to see if someone could suggest an alternative to correcting this very, very common issue? I would prefer to stick with AC-Delco but, it clearly didn’t hold up not even 6 months. Someone out there must have a solution to this issue. Why do GM trucks and SUV go through so many fuel pump sending units??? A parts guy at my local GM dealership said to just “deal with it and calculate my millage”. He claimed to replace 3 Sending Unit’s in his 2004 GM SUV and the problem keeps coming back! This is very unacceptable in my opinion. Why will GM not release a recall or at least “suggest” an alternative solution to create a more permanent fix? I guess acknowledging the issue would cost the GM a ton of money but, it is costing their consumers! GM needs to man up and accept this issue and at lease provide a real solution besides replace the pump and sending unit.

              Is there a better aftermarket solution?

              My idea of the cause of this common failure is due to not having baffles in the tank to reduce the amount of slop in the fuel. This causes excessive tugging on the float making the connecting rod to the float lose its tight contact to the resistor. Thoughts?

              #543873
              college mancollege man
              Moderator

                Try Delphi. don’t use airtex.

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