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I have a 97 blazer with a leaking timing chain cover leak. It also looks like it’s leaking around the crank sensor too that fastens into the bottom of the timing cover. I know the water pump, fan, and crank pulley and hormonic balancer have to come off but, can I put new gasket on and add silicone sealer to the bottom of the cover without dropping the oil pan? Maybe cut away the oil pan gadget where it meshes up with the timing cover and just but a bead of silicone? Thanks!
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Not attempting to be a wise a$$ here…
You can do what ever you want, it is your vehicle.
The question you should be asking is:
“If I do a hack repair (and you know that is what it is ) is it going to stop the oil leak?”
There are 1000 ways to do something wrong, but one way to do it right.
JMHOI wouldn’t really consider not removing the oil pan and using silicone a “hack job”. The factory uses silicone sealant at the edges/corners where the oil pan, timing cover match up to the block. My question I’m asking is, “is it a requirement to drop the oil pan to remove and reinstall the timing cover?” I prefer to do the job correctly but I am unsure of the process so that’s why I’m asking. Not to be a immature child but, the last reply I took offense too. It was kind of a rude reply. I’m here to get help and ask questions.
I don’t have the means to drop the entire oil pan without help. This is a second vehicle that is old and has a lot of miles on it. It doesn’t have to be perfect.
You can try putting rtv on the corners where I believe it goes, the problem is getting the joints clean and oil free to get a good seal. It’s worth a shot if you don’t have the means to drop the pan and replace the pan gasket too. But be prepared to possibly have a worse leak then starting off with.
If you follow the book to the letter, yes the oil pan comes down. Realistically, many GM dealer techs are already well practiced in doing just what you’re suggesting to do yourself. If you’re going to attempt it, just remember some sensible basics like clean your gasket surfaces and be weary that there is such a thing as too much RTV. Be generous enough to ensure good sealing without allowing too much to break free inside the engine and cause a restriction somewhere. Don’t cut any more of the new cover than you have to and you’ll probably be fine.
I apologize if you took offense, that wasn’t my intention.
I was simply trying to say better to do the job right the first time, than to risk having to do it twice.As to what no_common_sense mentioned:
” Realistically, many GM dealer techs are already well practiced in doing just what you’re suggesting to do yourself.”
Maybe a true statement, but if in the end the dealer techs repair fails, you have the option of returning to the dealer to correct the fault..And as shaun stated:
” the problem is getting the joints clean and oil free to get a good seal.”
is where you will have the biggest issue.
Again, I apologize, feel free to repair the cover the best way that suits your needs.
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