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Dealing with a van that wont start. previous mechanic* replaced starter and battery which obviously by now did not fix issue. No crank, no start. Tried to avoid posting this as i wanna become able in diagnosis ability but with another car rebuild on my hands I need some assistance
The starter will ‘click’ when the ignition is in ‘run’ or ‘start’. I suppose this is the drive extending but not spinning.
tried jumping car/ tried with additional good working battery from my car, with sufficient specs
To rule out ignition wire, completely bypassed by connecting remote starter. same issue so ignition switch can be ruled out.
Battery is good at 12.6 volts. I had it checked once at Oreilys, bad, then another at autozone, Good, both load tested. May get a third opinion but i’m inclined to think its sufficient enough.
Bench tested the starter, w/ a remote switch connected to the ignition terminal, connected to the same battery, runs without any problems on demand when switch is pressed. touched the positive lead of jumper to the ignition terminal, it ‘clicks’ just as if it was in the vehicle ( just to see if that part worked)
Starter will not start in vehicle via ignition switch or remote switch. Oddly the starter will only click once or twice then completely not click anymore when using the remote switch whereas the ignition when turned will click once per turn.
I am getting 12.6 volts at he battery feed, and at the ignition terminal but when cranked over voltage drops to zero ( ignition terminal).
Inspected for corrosion, cleaned oil off visible parts of the wires, cleaned leads, etc..
voltage being dropped. seems like it could be a ground, but not entirely sure, new with electrical diagnosis, I connected the van battery feed cable to the starter, but ran a jumper cable straight from the battery, negative post and hooked it to the starter housing itself, figuring that if it was a ground issue, i should be able to start it up with a direct connection. same issue.
looking at the connections to the relay from relay to ignition switch wire or positive battery terminal cable/wire.. could be completely off base. dont have more time, at work for the next 8 hours to think about it.
what chall think?>
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If 12v is directly applied either starter has a problem or something is not lined up right
to the fly wheel. Can you turn the engine over by hand. Ratchet on the crank bolt.https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
well to rule out an issue where the engine might be locked up I partially unbolted the starter from its place in the bellhousing, and am getting the same result ( no longer makes contact with flywheel)
I’m inclined to think it is an electrical issue, while cranking the voltage drops to zero completely on the ignition terminal so that must play a role in something
hows that possible when it was bench tested? can clearly alternate from no start in vehicle to off vehicle motor clearly spins. which leads me to an electrical issue especially if im getting zero volts at the ignition terminal when cranked
Starters can fail intermittently. Work some of the time and not at other times.
Besides, if I’m reading your info correctly, you bypassed the the starter wiring by jumpering directly from the battery, and got the same no-spin result. That pretty much eliminates a wiring problem.
I don’t know what you mean by “ignition terminal”, though.
Let me be clear, I bypassed the circuit, and successfully jumped the starter. spins no problem out the vehicle. It was when I connected the negative jumper clamp directly to a piece of chassis and the starter motor itself with the positive battery cable that was already there for the starter, and still got the no spin. that coupled with the voltage drop it leading me to the electrical issue
ignition terminal- ignition switch feed terminal on starter solenoid
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