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hello everybody i have a 1996 mitsubishi 3000 gt and i believe i have some rotor issues as when i hit the brakes, the front end shakes and vibrates really bad… the higher the speed the worse it is when brakes are applied…. thinking it was a rotor issue i decided to buy new rotors for the front…. i pulled off the calipers and their brackets and with no success can i get the rotors off…please help… i have soaked them in wd-40 and have beating the rotors from the back side with a mini sledge hammer and still cant get them to budge…. what should i do next???
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Try the technique
If these are the originals, the brake rotor material they were using back then was amazing in its ability to rust weld. If they had made the entire car out of this material and sprayed on water they would have had an assembled car. The brake rotors on my 2003 Mitsubishi don’t even get stuck. So they did fix it but no help to you.
Please, do NOT hit rotors on the leading edge.
Soak with QuickWrench where the studs come out, rotating rotor by hand.
Let them sit for about 20 minutes.
Soak again.
Give it another 5 or so minutes.
Take good aim, and hit it HARD between the studs. Be sure not to hit the stud. Hit it like you mean it.
Keep striking like this in criss cross pattern. Pops to me after 5-6 strikes.Did what you said and grabbed an 8 pound sledge hammer…. That rotor didnt stand a chance lol… It looked all messed up when i was done
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=107602]Please, do NOT hit rotors on the leading edge.[/quote]
Normally, I would agree with that statement 100%, but since the OP already stated that there were issues with the rotors, and he had purchased a replacement pair . . . doesn’t matter much what damage is done to them, so I would go ahead and pound along the edge, which gives the hammer the most leverage against the hub area which is where the rotor is likely stuck, not that it matters now, as the job is done, but in the future it might help someone. Caution is due when the rotors are going to be resurfaced, and used again, but when they are to be replaced, just beat ’em hard 🙂
If the rotors are already warped, hitting them won’t make things worse, you’re going to replace them anyway. This method also works for rotors if you have the threaded holes.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I worry a little about what all that pounding does to wheel bearings. I know the vehicle pounds down the road but there is the cushioning of the tire and the shocks to the bearing are in a different direction, a direction the bearing was designed for.
The trouble is I have no personal experience, I’ve never taken a hammer to a rotor.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107728]I worry a little about what all that pounding does to wheel bearings. I know the vehicle pounds down the road but there is the cushioning of the tire and the shocks to the bearing are in a different direction, a direction the bearing was designed for.
The trouble is I have no personal experience, I’ve never taken a hammer to a rotor.[/quote]
It doesn’t feel right at first, but sometimes you just have to beat the heck out of things to get them to submit. It’s part of the job in the ‘rust belt’.
That said, if he has the bolt holes it should be pretty straightforward.
The bolt holes are there but are pretty much useless on Mitsubishi cars of this era. All that happens is that they strip out.
A fellow I corresponded with told of how he couldn’t get his rotors off. This was an early 90’s Mitsubishi. But, he had a friend who worked at a shop that had big tools including a hydraulic puller. So, they went there and applied the tool and nothing. They walked away discussing the situation when the rotor came off and it and the puller flew across the room making a big dent in the wall.
However, the technique in the video I posted is said to work on these cars.
My three best friends when I am working on my car are my big hammer, my torch, and my wife. The hammer and torch because I live in New York where everything rusts, and my wife because she stands around while I am working so that when I start talking to the car, and myself, passersby don’t think I’ve lost my freaking mind.
well i have changed successfully both front rotors…. as stated above, the holes in the rotors were useless because when i put bolts in them the threads got pulled out when tightening the bolts down with a quarter inch ratchet….. what did the trick was beating the rotors from the inside edge… in my case, i used an 8 pound sledge hammer which did the trick… lots of people have told me i prob ruined the wheel bearings but they feel all right to me after the fact
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