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The bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft on my 1996 honda civic d16y7 was found to be missing. There wad a woodruf key in the slots between the balancer and the crankshaft, but the timing sprocket could be moved around the axis of the crankshaft independently of the crankshaft about 300 degrees. Not sure, but it looks like there used to be a keyway (groove) molded into the inside diameter of the sprocket, but thatakey sheared off and was incorporated into the sprocket through friction. I have posted a pic of the interior of the sprocket for your consideration. Can anyone tell me whether my analysis is correct, whether they can think of a way for me to use the sprocket in the pic, or whether i just need to spot for the 86 dollars for a new one? Thanks, Jerry.
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Not at all. I would rather draw my attention to something that they genuinely and reasonably believe to be a posible unconsidered problem any time, then to spend a bunch of money and time on parts and labor only to discover that it still doesnt work.
The ‘splines’ on the sprocket are not splines. They basically keep the sprocket from rusting to the crank. As the OP pointed out that gear has a protrusion that locates it on the crank and no woodruff key. If the groove in the crank isn’t damaged you should be fine. If it is, depending on the extent of the damage, you might need to either weld it into place or replace the crank. I don’t recommend the welding as that might cause other issues. You should be fine if the groove in the crank is OK however.
Keep us posted.
Here we go[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/10/b45953830670166767a64a597e109a70.jpg[/IMG]
Put the new sprocket on. Used a new woodruf key on the harmonic balancer/accessory pulley. New bolt. Old belt was in like new condition, so I reused it. Used Eric’s signature “hold the camshaft gear while turning the crankshaft counterclockwise, then tightening the tensioner. Fired her up, and ran like a charm. I shoul probably check the timing, just to be sure it is within specs, but it ran great. I dont have the lower timing-belt cover, so i figured i would just set the camshaft to tdc, transfer the zero mark from the balancer to the engine marking it, the engine, with a white marker, then setting the ignition timing based on the location of the zero mark i made on the engine with the white marker. Anyone got an opinion as to the effectiveness of this improvised process for setting timing? The sights for setting timing on this vehicle are supposed to be on the timing belt cover. Since i have no timing belt cover, i gotta come up with an alternative method. I think it will work, but i would rather let it be than to screw it up on an unproven method. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
How many crackers does it take to put on an air filter? In my caseonly one , as long as he has some electrical tape and some plasric paper.:evil:
You shouldn’t need to worry about timing if the distributor was not moved. Honestly, it’s best if you leave it alone. As long as you have a properly tightened timing belt you should never need to worry about the ignition timing. Also, if you do decide to set the timing, know that there is a special procedure that needs to be followed in order to set it properly. You can’t just start cranking on the distributor. The procedure should be outlined on the under hood sticker.
Thanks Eric. No sticker as it’s not the stock hood. I’m just going to leave it as it is . it’s running fine. Ant broke, dont fix it. Js
Yep, the red thing with the plastic wrap and electrical tape is what passed for a breather. Not sure what head is on it. I just wanted to keep junk outa the intake. When i bought it, there was a big hole in the pipe,between the filter and the throttle body. That pipe is actually dryer exhaust pipe.
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