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Have a 96 Hond Accord LX 2.2L that cranked up and ran for 2 or 3 min and just cut off. Checking the car out it has no spark on the plugs or the coil. Replaced coil still nothing. Checked distributer and it was full of oil and the wires were brittle so I just replaced with a new one, still no fire. The CEL is not on put on a scan tool no codes at all. When you turn the switch on the CEL comes on the fuel pump primes for 2 sec. and the CEL goes off. Checked injectors and they are firing. With the switch on I have power to the coil and distributer but nothing on the input wire that tells them to fire when the motor is turning over. Timing belt is fine and the rotor is turning in the distributer. I have found 3 grounds 1 on the block to battery,1 on valve cover, and 1 on the intake they are good. What could this be?
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It’S a really possible ECM fail. I wrote possible, because whitout test, no result. See this web page. The guy had the same problem of you.
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/2gqqe-1997-honda-accord-no-spark-replaced.html
:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: Well got it running after breaking the bank and replacing everything that could possibly be replaced a $50 ECM from a junk yard got her going. Atleast it runs alot better now! From all my research it makes sense that an Accord with no spark that does not show any codes is the ECM, most everything else would throw a code. Thanks to all for your help!
Your car will have all brand new electrical components for a long time. Thanks for the update !
B) B) B) B)
Good job on not giving up.
ECM!!! Can’t say I’ve seen a dead Honda ECM.
Thanks for posting too. I learned something from it.Honda ECM’s hardly ever go bad and when they do it’s usually the result of improper handling. Also, if you have a no spark it’s good to look for the primary signal in the distributor. The ECM does not control this, the cam and crank sensors do this via the igniter inside the distributor. I’m not a fan of aftermarket distributors for Hondas, I’ve seen nothing but problems with them. Mostly crank sensor issues that cause a code 9 or a no start condition. In addition, it’s also important to use OE parts for the plugs, wires, and if you can the cap and rotor. Honda ignition systems are pretty picky and if you use aftermarket parts here it tends to burn up coils and igniters from what I’ve seen. That said, I’m glad you got it sorted out. Thanks for the updates and for using the ETCG forum.
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