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Greetings All…
I have a ’96 Ford Ranger, 4.0L/w automatic and 120K miles. The odometer stopped working. Found a gear on line, removed the cluster and replaced the gear. The odometer now works fine, but I appearntly did something to the speedometer, because it’s hosed now. OK…”hosed” is a little strong. When I put it all back together and turned the key on, it imeadiatly jumped to 28 mph. That is now apparently the “new” zero, because it registers fine from there. When I took it apart (had to take the needle off to get the faceplate off) the shaft and needle were not keyed in any way and if the shaft rotated once the needle was off, you really have no way of knowing that unless you mark it first thing….which I didn’t (of course). Anyway, I figured it would self zero when it was energizedd…wrong. I would appreciate any thoughts/comments on this. Thanks guys!
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That’s kind of what I thought. Maybe take it apart again, mark the shaft where it sits at 28 mph, then pull the needle and keeping the shaft at that reference, set the needle at zero and slide it back on? I don’t know…doesn’t seem like a very good design….
I will take it apart again when it warms up some. That old plastic coupled with cold temps. Tends to make it a bit brittle and subject to braking……already busted the screw towers off that hold the headlight switch on…….thank God for JBweld!!!
No problem here if you post a procedure/repair from another site
to help with diagnostic or learning.Good Afternoon all…
Some of you may remember that this is the vehicle that I am having a parasitic draw issue with and thought that might be tied in with the inaccuracies of the speedo after pulling it to fix the odometer and then reinstalling it. Come to find out I don’t think one has anything to do with the other. When taking the needle off to pull the faceplate there is no way to reference where the needle goes back on so I was under the assumption that the unit “self zeroed” when power was applied. Wrong. I found out that there is a way to “calibrate” the speedo with a AA battery, four alligator clips and some wire BEFORE you remove the needle. Then you apply power and replace the needle at the same “speed” it was at when you took it off. The following link will take you to a thread in another forum and this guy shows step by step how to do it. I hope maybe it helps someone that has had or has the same problem.http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring2009/odometer.htm
OK…finally making progress…I think…..I had to reverse engineer the procedure in the link a bit because it assumes that your speedo was right to begin with…mine wasen’t…I had already dorked it up. So now I’ve got it to within a couple mph of being correct (based on my GPS). I may take it out to “fine tune” it, but basicly the problem is solved. Thanks to everyone on here that has helped. I literally could not have done it without you! Now…it;s on to that pesky parastic draw issue……
[quote=”sirdude” post=89202]OK…finally making progress…I think…..I had to reverse engineer the procedure in the link a bit because it assumes that your speedo was right to begin with…mine wasen’t…I had already dorked it up. So now I’ve got it to within a couple mph of being correct (based on my GPS). I may take it out to “fine tune” it, but basicly the problem is solved. Thanks to everyone on here that has helped. I literally could not have done it without you! Now…it;s on to that pesky parastic draw issue……[/quote]
Glad you are getting the problem resolved. 🙂
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