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Alright. Before my old motor dropped a valve seat the car would get hot. I noticed the fan did work some times but then it just quit all together and now after getting it back up and running I want to fix that issue before the car over heats and potently causes a valve seat to fail.
Here is my thread over on FEOA.net, I wanted to post here to kinda get different answers to things. The current post in my thread on there is what’s been happening recently.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo … 406#695406
I did the relay mod that’s on there to use standard relays, I’ve checked and triple checked the wiring on those relays. I get power to the relays like stated in that thread but it’s not sending power out from the relays to the fan. The fan indeed works because I wired it right to the battery. Both high and low work.
Thanks
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It wont send power to the fans till the PCM commands the relays on.
If the cooling fans have a bad ground, then it will affect current flow.
Think of voltage as electrical pressure. More pressure = less current flow. Less pressure = more current flow. So in essence, if the cooling fan motors were working and you checked the voltage at the motor, it would read around 0v. This is because there is no electrical pressure as the circuit is energized, the cooling fan motors are running and there is high current flow. (Using those numbers as an example in aid to help you on how electricity flows.)
Again, once your comfortable, i would jumper the relays with a 40amp fused jumper wire and see if the cooling fans kick on.
But you have alot more to check before even doing that.
I hope the above makes sense as im dead tired.
The motor is the 1.9. I don’t have any scanners or diagnostic equipment. Just a test light and a DMM and some paitience lol.
Yes I know the fan won’t kick on till a certain temperature. I did the key on fuse out trick to make the car think something is wrong and needs to turn the fan on. Also let the car warm up and unplugged the ECT to make it think it’s over heating. I hear the relay(s) click but the fan doesn’t come on.
If you go to the last page on that thread I linked you can see what I’ve done.
The wiring diagram you posted, is that the correct one for your vehicle?
When you put 12v to the cooling fan motors, did you just jumper the yellow or LG/Yellow wire? Or did you use 2 jumper leads and jump the yellow and black?
If both relays are clicking, that means the PCM see’s the signal to operate the fans. So focus your efforts on the Yellow and LG/Yellow wires when the vehicle is running. You need to see if you have power coming from the relays once activated.
I would also do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans.
This is all going by that diagram you posted.
I do not have any power coming from the relays when they are activated. The Yellow and LG/Yellow wiring has no power coming from the relays.
I tested the fan using 2 wires directly to the battery. tested the high and low separately.
I also tested voltage at the ground side of the fan and it’s seeing proper voltage when the vehicle is off and on. Matches with the battery.
Did you try bypassing the relays by using a fused jumper wire?
How are you checking for power exactly? With a test light or DVOM?
How exactly did you check the ground side of the cooling fan motors? Did you do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans?
Im not reading all those 19 pages of your other thread but i see you did a relay mod? What exactly does that entail? Did you mix up any wiring?
Did you also check for power leaving the starter cut out relay?
Quoted From college man:
there has to be a thermostat or sensor to tell the fans when to come on and off
The PCM uses the ECT on this application according go the wiring diagram he posted.
The problem he is having is not getting power to the cooling fans supposedly. The relays are ground switched from the PCM.
There is still a lot of testing to be done. And everyone here and at the Escort forums have given him everything he needs to know on how to fix the issue.
Hopefully he will report back with the results soon.
I actually may have had a blonde moment(I’m not blonde though lol) and was testing the relay backwards. MAYBE. I don’t know. I got a video for you guys. Don’t know if it helps or just makes me look like a fool.
Video is uploading now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys6ySPIWXvc’
And its the opposite if I key on fuse out. While probing with the positive probe. Just no power at the fan wiring.
Did not have time to watch all, our IP has been having intermittent problems.
You probably have a hot wire constant to coil, either #85 or 86. You say why? One side is hot and that feeds through the coil looking for a ground. That is why it is hot on both sides.
On # 30, it should be hot also. It is waiting for pcm to give a ground to either #85 or 86.
I could not tell if that was a 5 wire or 4 wire, but looked to me like a 5 wire relay, therefore # 30 is in direct contact to #87a and will remain hot untill the coil finds a ground on #85 or 86. At that time when coil is fired, #87a will be opened and #87 will be hot. That is when (and the wire) that should feed a hot wire to your fan.Next step unplug relay from connector and then find which one is hot of terminals#85 or 86. When you see which is hot, make a jumper for the one of the 2 that is not hot and ground that side to fire the coil. I am doing this in a hurry, have to head to work maybe some one will catch an error here for me to steer you in right direction from here.
Im going to study your video and that wiring diagram and see what your doing wrong. Ill try to do a well thought out reply this evening but with it being this late, you might have to wait till tomorrow.
Did you locate the starter cut off relay as shown in that diagram you posted as that plays a very important part of this circuit?
Did you locate the ground for the cooling fan motors?I am 10 seconds into your video you seeing as you have your DVOM on B+, you are checking your grounds.
Lovely valve seats in the Ford 1.9 and 2.0 SOHC engines!
In your voltage drop, you will be reading millivolts of voltage. You should hopefully see something like .123 . That period before the numbers is correct, or your meter will show a mv in the screen if it does not show a period.
I did not read your other thread, but I am wondering did you change the relay? Pull your relay out and take a 9 volt battery, hook up to your coil side to fire relay, at same time have your DMM hooked up in ohms to measure resistance across the 2 terminals that would feed power to fan side to see if there is resistance on the points of the relay.
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