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Alright. Before my old motor dropped a valve seat the car would get hot. I noticed the fan did work some times but then it just quit all together and now after getting it back up and running I want to fix that issue before the car over heats and potently causes a valve seat to fail.
Here is my thread over on FEOA.net, I wanted to post here to kinda get different answers to things. The current post in my thread on there is what’s been happening recently.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo … 406#695406
I did the relay mod that’s on there to use standard relays, I’ve checked and triple checked the wiring on those relays. I get power to the relays like stated in that thread but it’s not sending power out from the relays to the fan. The fan indeed works because I wired it right to the battery. Both high and low work.
Thanks
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The wiring diagram you posted, is that the correct one for your vehicle?
When you put 12v to the cooling fan motors, did you just jumper the yellow or LG/Yellow wire? Or did you use 2 jumper leads and jump the yellow and black?
If both relays are clicking, that means the PCM see’s the signal to operate the fans. So focus your efforts on the Yellow and LG/Yellow wires when the vehicle is running. You need to see if you have power coming from the relays once activated.
I would also do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans.
This is all going by that diagram you posted.
I do not have any power coming from the relays when they are activated. The Yellow and LG/Yellow wiring has no power coming from the relays.
I tested the fan using 2 wires directly to the battery. tested the high and low separately.
I also tested voltage at the ground side of the fan and it’s seeing proper voltage when the vehicle is off and on. Matches with the battery.
Did you try bypassing the relays by using a fused jumper wire?
How are you checking for power exactly? With a test light or DVOM?
How exactly did you check the ground side of the cooling fan motors? Did you do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans?
Im not reading all those 19 pages of your other thread but i see you did a relay mod? What exactly does that entail? Did you mix up any wiring?
Did you also check for power leaving the starter cut out relay?
I didn’t start posting about the fan till page 17, if that helps. The relay mod was just replacing the OE relays with regular 30/40 amp SPDT relays. I checked the wiring on the relays and it matches the diagram they had posted. I used my DMM with the positive probe on the positive battery terminal and the negative probe in the negative of the fan harness.
I have not tried bypassing the relays.
How do I go about doing a voltage drop test?
Didn’t check power at the start cut out relay.
The below video will show you how to do a voltage drop on a starter circuit but the same principle applies –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc
You will see from that video how the smallest amount of corrosion on a battery terminal can cause a no crank condition.
When you do the voltage drop test on the ground side of your radiator fan motors, make sure you use there ground location, not by probing the ground wire. there should be some type of bolt holding a ground wire somewhere for those motors.
I am going to back track though.
Was this issue present before you did all that work to the Escort?
Why did you do the relay modification?
Are you 100% sure that wiring diagram is for your vehicle?
I actually may have had a blonde moment(I’m not blonde though lol) and was testing the relay backwards. MAYBE. I don’t know. I got a video for you guys. Don’t know if it helps or just makes me look like a fool.
Video is uploading now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys6ySPIWXvc’
And its the opposite if I key on fuse out. While probing with the positive probe. Just no power at the fan wiring.
Did not have time to watch all, our IP has been having intermittent problems.
You probably have a hot wire constant to coil, either #85 or 86. You say why? One side is hot and that feeds through the coil looking for a ground. That is why it is hot on both sides.
On # 30, it should be hot also. It is waiting for pcm to give a ground to either #85 or 86.
I could not tell if that was a 5 wire or 4 wire, but looked to me like a 5 wire relay, therefore # 30 is in direct contact to #87a and will remain hot untill the coil finds a ground on #85 or 86. At that time when coil is fired, #87a will be opened and #87 will be hot. That is when (and the wire) that should feed a hot wire to your fan.Next step unplug relay from connector and then find which one is hot of terminals#85 or 86. When you see which is hot, make a jumper for the one of the 2 that is not hot and ground that side to fire the coil. I am doing this in a hurry, have to head to work maybe some one will catch an error here for me to steer you in right direction from here.
Im going to study your video and that wiring diagram and see what your doing wrong. Ill try to do a well thought out reply this evening but with it being this late, you might have to wait till tomorrow.
Did you locate the starter cut off relay as shown in that diagram you posted as that plays a very important part of this circuit?
Did you locate the ground for the cooling fan motors?I am 10 seconds into your video you seeing as you have your DVOM on B+, you are checking your grounds.
Lovely valve seats in the Ford 1.9 and 2.0 SOHC engines!
In your voltage drop, you will be reading millivolts of voltage. You should hopefully see something like .123 . That period before the numbers is correct, or your meter will show a mv in the screen if it does not show a period.
I did not read your other thread, but I am wondering did you change the relay? Pull your relay out and take a 9 volt battery, hook up to your coil side to fire relay, at same time have your DMM hooked up in ohms to measure resistance across the 2 terminals that would feed power to fan side to see if there is resistance on the points of the relay.Yes I changed the 2 relays in the fender. I don’t even know if the old ones were bad. But they are replaced now so I don’t have to worry about that. And when I was doing just normal testing at the relays. Not doing the voltage drop test, there was power going TO the relays but not out. I was testing right on the spade of the relay.
And for the valve seat it’s a shot in the dark really. Some motors have it happen others don’t. I’ve heard that over heating can cause it to fail. But I want to put that issue behind me. I got my baby back lol.
So from what I have seen so far , you are left with either pcm is not grounding the relay or, a bad wire going from relay power to fan.
Can you ground the coil side of the relay manually to get the relay to fire? If you can, then will the fan start?
If you are not able to get in there to ground it, make 4 jumper wires with connectors on them (sort of like jacking up the relay so you can see) and plug every thing back together so you can physically ground the ground side of coil.
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