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Alright. Before my old motor dropped a valve seat the car would get hot. I noticed the fan did work some times but then it just quit all together and now after getting it back up and running I want to fix that issue before the car over heats and potently causes a valve seat to fail.
Here is my thread over on FEOA.net, I wanted to post here to kinda get different answers to things. The current post in my thread on there is what’s been happening recently.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo … 406#695406
I did the relay mod that’s on there to use standard relays, I’ve checked and triple checked the wiring on those relays. I get power to the relays like stated in that thread but it’s not sending power out from the relays to the fan. The fan indeed works because I wired it right to the battery. Both high and low work.
Thanks
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Quoted From rebel4055:
I have a test light and a DVOM. Sorry for the confusion there. I did watch the video about the starter and the voltage drop.
Only sensors that needed switching is the IAC and TPS. Figured that out not long after the swap. I had a thread on here about that.
I don’t mean to come off as to I don’t know what I’m doing. I’m not used to doing these testing procedures.
I wasn’t trying to call you out bro. I’m just suggesting that using a dvom properly is not as easy as you would think. I ran into the same problems before I went to college and was properly schooled as to what a dvom does and how to use it. No offense was intended.
According to that diagram you posted (i found one that is totally different but i need to know your engine size), the high speed fan relay is ground switch.
Did you check that wiring coming from the PCM? The low speed relay is also ground switched.
The PCM will command those fans on from data from the ECT or from the temperature switch (again engine dependent).
I used this link –
Oh I understand. I know where your coming from and I took your response as to I should learn a few more things. No problem over here bro!
Nothing is different besides the TPS and IAC. The wiring is virtually the same between cars. Only thing wiring that was swapped was the engine harness. It’s completely separate from the vehicles. Wiring for the ECT and stuff is vehicle related and is the same between second gens OBD or OBD-II.
There is a wiring issue somewhere for the relay not allowing power to be sent to the fans. But all the wiring that goes to the relay seems to be working. It’s just not allowing power.
According the those wiring diagrams at BBB Industries, the cooling fans will not come on till the engine reaches 220 and 230 deg.
Do you have a scan tool to look at live PID data?
It wont send power to the fans till the PCM commands the relays on.
If the cooling fans have a bad ground, then it will affect current flow.
Think of voltage as electrical pressure. More pressure = less current flow. Less pressure = more current flow. So in essence, if the cooling fan motors were working and you checked the voltage at the motor, it would read around 0v. This is because there is no electrical pressure as the circuit is energized, the cooling fan motors are running and there is high current flow. (Using those numbers as an example in aid to help you on how electricity flows.)
Again, once your comfortable, i would jumper the relays with a 40amp fused jumper wire and see if the cooling fans kick on.
But you have alot more to check before even doing that.
I hope the above makes sense as im dead tired.
The motor is the 1.9. I don’t have any scanners or diagnostic equipment. Just a test light and a DMM and some paitience lol.
Yes I know the fan won’t kick on till a certain temperature. I did the key on fuse out trick to make the car think something is wrong and needs to turn the fan on. Also let the car warm up and unplugged the ECT to make it think it’s over heating. I hear the relay(s) click but the fan doesn’t come on.
If you go to the last page on that thread I linked you can see what I’ve done.
The wiring diagram you posted, is that the correct one for your vehicle?
When you put 12v to the cooling fan motors, did you just jumper the yellow or LG/Yellow wire? Or did you use 2 jumper leads and jump the yellow and black?
If both relays are clicking, that means the PCM see’s the signal to operate the fans. So focus your efforts on the Yellow and LG/Yellow wires when the vehicle is running. You need to see if you have power coming from the relays once activated.
I would also do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans.
This is all going by that diagram you posted.
I do not have any power coming from the relays when they are activated. The Yellow and LG/Yellow wiring has no power coming from the relays.
I tested the fan using 2 wires directly to the battery. tested the high and low separately.
I also tested voltage at the ground side of the fan and it’s seeing proper voltage when the vehicle is off and on. Matches with the battery.
Did you try bypassing the relays by using a fused jumper wire?
How are you checking for power exactly? With a test light or DVOM?
How exactly did you check the ground side of the cooling fan motors? Did you do a voltage drop test on the ground side of the cooling fans?
Im not reading all those 19 pages of your other thread but i see you did a relay mod? What exactly does that entail? Did you mix up any wiring?
Did you also check for power leaving the starter cut out relay?
I didn’t start posting about the fan till page 17, if that helps. The relay mod was just replacing the OE relays with regular 30/40 amp SPDT relays. I checked the wiring on the relays and it matches the diagram they had posted. I used my DMM with the positive probe on the positive battery terminal and the negative probe in the negative of the fan harness.
I have not tried bypassing the relays.
How do I go about doing a voltage drop test?
Didn’t check power at the start cut out relay.
The below video will show you how to do a voltage drop on a starter circuit but the same principle applies –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc
You will see from that video how the smallest amount of corrosion on a battery terminal can cause a no crank condition.
When you do the voltage drop test on the ground side of your radiator fan motors, make sure you use there ground location, not by probing the ground wire. there should be some type of bolt holding a ground wire somewhere for those motors.
I am going to back track though.
Was this issue present before you did all that work to the Escort?
Why did you do the relay modification?
Are you 100% sure that wiring diagram is for your vehicle?
The fan had quit working before the motor dropped the seat. I just never really dug into it because I knew the motor was about to do something even though I had no idea it was going to drop a seat and destroy a few things.
Got a motor out of a 95 and decided to just go through the entire car and fix anything that was there. While the motor was out I cleaned up every ground point in the engine bay. There is one on the transmission for the battery and 2 ground locations behind the drivers side head light and one hanging on the passenger fender well. Took both off and cleaned both surfaces with a drill/wire wheel. I’m picky when it comes to cleaning ground points.
I changed the relays thinking that was the issue. That wiring diagram is for my vehicle. Not much changes between 2nd gen escorts.
I also changed the ECT. So basically most of the cooling electronics are new.
Quoted From rebel4055:
I didn’t start posting about the fan till page 17, if that helps. The relay mod was just replacing the OE relays with regular 30/40 amp SPDT relays. I checked the wiring on the relays and it matches the diagram they had posted. I used my DMM with the positive probe on the positive battery terminal and the negative probe in the negative of the fan harness.
I have not tried bypassing the relays.
How do I go about doing a voltage drop test?
Didn’t check power at the start cut out relay.
I think maybe you misunderstand how a volt meter works. Think of it as a calculator. The meter subtracts what it sees from one lead and the other, and displays the difference. For example, if your positive lead see 12v, and your negative lead sees 0v, the display will show 12v. That means that you are ‘dropping’ 12v between your connection. I’m not sure if this helps or hurts.
Yeah you lost me. I didn’t know there was some technique to using a DMM.
Or I just didn’t understand how you worded it.
I wasn’t doing the test like shown in the video. All I did was check and see if I had a proper voltage going through the ground. I didn’t preform a voltage drop test like he posted.
And I understand what they are doing in that video. I just have to do it.
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