- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey guys I just got home and I turned off the engine, and when I tried to turn it back on there was NO crank.
MY car has another issue and I know it is old but I am getting hit hard right now.
The battery is fine and the terminals didn’t look that dirty, and the alternator is fine the serpentine/alternator belt is starting to get frail but it is still turning well.
The car is at 70700 original miles now.
The issue is when I turn the key to the crank position to start the car it doesn’t crank or make a sound.
If it was out of fuel it would still try to make a cranking sound, same goes for a broken timing belt the car would still try to crank but wouldn’t be able to because the belt would be broken.
So I am guessing it is either a bad or dead starter or possibly the starter solenoid, not sure though. I was told to do the starter tap test but I will need a 2nd pair of hands to crank while I bang/tap on the starter
Is that the ONLY way to test for a bad or dead starter?
Main reason I am guessing it is the culprit was before I got home when I was leaving my job the car cranked slowly as if it was struggling to turn over. The gas is still about 1/4 tank.
I know it doesn’t help that I was locked out of the car since I forgot to unlock the door after I parked the car and locked the keys in there with the car still running/ idling over 30 minutes waiting for job security to unlock my car door. I went to check under the hood for any coolant leaks and forgot to turn off the engine or unlock my door.
Also on a side note. If a TIMING belt snaps or rips, wouldn’t it be 100% guaranteed that you would suffer damage to the internals like the valves? NO MATTER if you have a DOHC or SOHC engine because of the way the timing belt is placed in the car this pertains to just the Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Neons?
-
Replies
-
here is a link to help you.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Let’s look at your no crank first.
Best way to figure it out is with a multimeter, or a test light, and a 2nd pair of hands.
Battery terminals, no matter how good they look, I would take them off, clean them up, and put them back on nice and snug. Also, the connections where the negative cable connects to the engine block, and body need to be cleaned and tightened up, and the connection where the positive cable connects to the starter.
Battery . . . you have to test it to be sure it isn’t the problem. With a volt meter, and nothing in the car turned on, you should get 12.4 to 12.6 volts at the battery terminals. Anything less means your battery is weak, and could be the problem.
Once the connections are clean and tight, and you have verified proper voltage at the battery, you need a helper. Using a volt meter or test light, attach the negative lead to ground, and the positive lead to the small connector at the starter. Have your helper turn the key, and see if you are getting voltage at the terminal. Also test and make sure you are getting 12v at the BIG terminal on the starter.
If BOTH of those connections are getting 12v when the key is in the start position, your starter is suspect, pull it and have it tested.
If there is no voltage on the BIG connector, or less than 12v, your battery cable is broken, corroded, or shorted somewhere.
If there is no voltage on the small connector, then there is a problem with your starter relay, ignition switch, wiring, or perhaps a fuse / circuit breaker. Time to dig into the wiring.
Well I tried jumping the car tonight with jumper cables, but even if the battery was weak, I would think that there will be a spark or the car would try to crank since it is getting an extra boost. The car WOULD NOT turnover or even attempt to crank whatsoever. So we can probably rule out the battery, I will check the cables again but I didn’t see anything at least not with the naked eye.
I watched Eric’s videos on diagnosing a no crank no start condition.
I will try to take the battery to autozone and get it tested just to be safe, but I still have that sneaking feeling that the starter is the culprit. I guess I can take a hammer and whack the starter a bit lol
Well, if you beat the starter with a hammer, then you won’t have to wonder if it is bad or not.
Why not use a test light, or multi meter to verify voltage at the starter, then you will know for sure if that is the problem or not, instead of taking a chance on ruining a good starter by whacking at it with a hammer.
I couldn’t whack it lol I tapped the top of it and nothing.
I tried a rolling start but nothing either.
I don’t have a multimeter and it is kind of pricey like %50.00 for the basic basic model and up so I will look for them tomorrow too.
HOWEVER, I did get the battery checked out at autozone and it is at 100% so that means the battery and alternator are good otherwise there would be a lower % on the battery
Now it is looking to be more and more likely the starter. so now I need to figure out how to replace that.
I can’t seem to get the battery tray out even with 2 bolts and the 3rd one I just need a really long extension for it but I don’t know if there is a hidden bolt in the top left corner of the battery tray.
so if I can’t get to it from the top I have to do it from the bottom where should I jack the car up at to ensure the front end lifts up enough for me to work underneath, now mind you I am working in a public/city street and my car suffered a frontal collision on the driver’s side front corner of the car. I don’t know if I can put the jack underneath the bottom engine mount even though I just replaced it.
This is starting to sound like an ignition switch problem. The switch is possibly shorted in the start position but works in all the other positions.
The quick and dirty way of checking it would be to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the start position. Once in the start position keep it there and start jiggling the key slightly. Also try pushing and pulling the key in the start position and see if the car starts. I’m also assuming your battery is good.
AutoZone/AutoZoo also tests starters.
how would it be an ignition switch/ key cylinder/tumbler problem?
The battery test was 100% and that both gets rid of the alternator and battery/ wires/ cables/ terminal issues.
that is a first from my knowledge never heard of a bad key cylinder/ ignition switch.
I did try jiggling the key several times and it wouldn’t start.
I am more and more thinking that it is a starter problem
Not to mention two days ago when I started the car at work to head home it barely caught on, like it was deciding whether or not to turn over and it turned over and drove fine, but once I got home I turned off the engine and took the key out. Then I was curious so I decided to stick the key back into the engine and turn it over, but that time I did that it didn’t crank. I didn’t hear a click when I turned it to the “on position” I heard the bzzt sound of the car which I believe is the fuel pump and that is normal but when I try to crank it, nothing.
If you can’t get a multimeter, can you come up with a spare light socket, and bulb, with a bit of wire? That can be used as a test light to verify voltage in a circuit, which should be enough to verify if you are getting a signal to the starter for it to crank over or not.
If there is a signal, then bad starter. No signal means bad relay, or switch, or a wiring problem between the switch and starter.
Hello,
If you get a multi meter at the auto parts store they will stick it to you a bit, but a big box store, or harbor freight has them for under 10 bux for the basic Voltage / ohm testers. and the battery being good does NOT rule out the cable from the battery to the starter unless you verify Voltage on the starter there is not any real way to know its getting to the starter. a dirty / loose / broken wire would give the same symptoms. Drag once or twice then nothing. “more common than you think” If you wanna do it the super dirty way. u can get a starter switch that you hook directly to your starter, hit the button and if the starter is good and you have hooked it up correctly it will fire. It’s made for do it yourself types that don’t usually have an extra set of hands so you can just start the car from under the hood. but no noise no clicks no nothing sounds like it could be a blown fuse in the ignition circuit somewhere or even a bad relay. Anyways i hope some of this helped ya.Pat
Harbor Freight GIVES AWAY cheap multi meters, they’re not the best but you don’t seem to want to buy one to help you work on this. Look for coupons in the Sunday newspaper or at their website on line and sign up for their fliers and email offers.
I don’t recall the original poster mentioning what country he is from, it is possible that there are no inexpensive multimeters available where he lives, so don’t be too harsh.
That is why I suggested the other way of verifying voltage at the signal lead on the starter.
Hey guys It was the starter I had someone help me remove the starter and found the teeth to be worn and the brush doesn’t snap in so no click sounds were coming from the starter.
I wish i took a picture of the starter. it was like a burnt color black and had dried oil spots all over the place it look like someone threw it into a bonfire and cooked it so now with the procraft starter from pepboys the cars starts and roars like a dream.
Thanks for everyone’s advice and help.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.