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Its not mine I promise! lol
Hey guys. Im trying to help a friend she initially had a no start no crank issue on her 1996 Dodge Caravan. It has the 3.3L automatic with about 189k. She said one day the check engine light came on and after that the no start issue came on. I didnt have my OBDII reader today so I was unable to pull the code.
I checked the battery and it had good voltage the terminals were clean and tight. I turned the key noticed just a click sound from the engine bay.
Next I used my PowerProbe (thanks Eric!) and I was able to supply battery voltage to the starter. The starter did engage the motor and the motor cranked so I was able to rule out the starter and battery. It didnt seem like I was getting the 12v signal to the starter when turning the key. So I figured the cuplrit was the ignition switch.
I replaced the ignition switch and sadly this did not resolve the issue. But I did notice an unsettling symptom that I wish I caught onto earlier. Upon instiallation of the switch and hooking the battery backup I noticed both the odometer and transmission gear select display on dispite the key being out of the ignition. I dont recall this issue with the old ignition switch. I checked the installation of the switch and verified it to be in the off posistion with the key off and it was.
I also noticed. that when turning the key to run none of the warning lights come on and the usual dinger doesnt sound. When I noticed this I checked the fuses under the hood and didnt find anything blown. I havnt checked in the cab yet as I was losing sunlight.
Im wondering if besides maybe a blown fuse if I might have missed something. With the new switch in I still just get a single click when turning the key to start. I had someone turn the key to start while I supplied direct battery power to the starter. I could get it to crank but nothing else.
To summarise I know the starter is good, motor can turn, battery seems good, terminals and cables seem ok. And I have a new ignition switch. Besides fuses am I missing something? And would a blown fuse cause a no crank no start?
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See if this helps Chris.
http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1lroz-1996-dodge-caravan-3-0-litre-engine.html
Thsx for your input College Man. I read that sometimes a security system will lock the vehicle out from starting. Tho I didn’t notice anything like a security light. I decided to pull the ecm and IOM (Memory fueses) to see if that would possibly do anything. While in the middle of doing that I decided to go back thru and recheck the fuses. And as my luck would have it the ignition switch fuse was blown. I replaced it and immediately got the dash warning lights and viola the van to start.
The lesson I learned was I failed to realize that there was a relay and a fuse in between the switch and starter. My friend was happy that I at least got the van running again.
The only other issue I have yet to solve is the odometer display and gear indicator still remain lit with the key removed. The only was I can get the displays to go off short of pulling the battery is when I pull the IOM Mmemory Fuse. This problem didn’t occur until after changing the ignition switch. So Im wondering is this a sign of a bad ignition switch (although I put in a new unit) or is there something else that needs looked into.
[quote=”ChrisR1987″ post=79257]Thsx for your input College Man. I read that sometimes a security system will lock the vehicle out from starting. Tho I didn’t notice anything like a security light. I decided to pull the ecm and IOM (Memory fueses) to see if that would possibly do anything. While in the middle of doing that I decided to go back thru and recheck the fuses. And as my luck would have it the ignition switch fuse was blown. I replaced it and immediately got the dash warning lights and viola the van to start.
The lesson I learned was I failed to realize that there was a relay and a fuse in between the switch and starter. My friend was happy that I at least got the van running again.
The only other issue I have yet to solve is the odometer display and gear indicator still remain lit with the key removed. The only was I can get the displays to go off short of pulling the battery is when I pull the IOM Mmemory Fuse. This problem didn’t occur until after changing the ignition switch. So Im wondering is this a sign of a bad ignition switch (although I put in a new unit) or is there something else that needs looked into.[/quote]
Chris, take the keys out, shut all the doors and wait about 30 mins and look inside through the window and the odometer should be out. Caravans display the odometer when the door is opened it’s natural. You might not have noticed untill you changed out the switch
The IOD is the Ignition Off Draw circuit it powers almost all the memory circuits for the different modules. You have to give time to allow the modules to “go to sleep” and than your odometer will power off on it’s own.
The IOD fuse is there for you to pull if you are gong to store the vehicle for more than 30 days to ensure the battery is not drained dead.
Thx Kevin. The displays stayed on the whole night and were still on when I came back the next day. When I had my 99 Caravan the displays shut off when I turned the key off. I know the newer dodges have the odometer on with the door open tho.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=79263][quote=”ChrisR1987″ post=79257]
The IOD is the Ignition Off Draw circuit it powers almost all the memory circuits for the different modules. You have to give time to allow the modules to “go to sleep” and than your odometer will power off on it’s own.The IOD fuse is there for you to pull if you are gong to store the vehicle for more than 30 days to ensure the battery is not drained dead.[/quote]
That’s new to me Thanks!
Than you have the dash module staying awake and not sleeping. Let me study the wiring diagrams and see if I can help you trouble shoot that problem.
See if fuse number 2 (under dash second from left on the bottom row) has power with the key out
If it does than the new ignition switch might be bad, that fuse sends a wake up command to the dash cluster, it should only be hot in start, run and unlock. It should have no voltage in lock or accessory.
Here is the diagram and you can see the fuse on circuit F11
If the light problem happened after the ignition switch replacement.
I would recheck my work. Could be a bad switch out of the box. 🙂Good find on the fuse. I’ve been burned on those before myself which is why I always check them now. I also recommend that you go back and recheck your install of the ignition switch. It could be that there is a wire pinched or something that’s causing the problem. No matter what, stop back and keep us posted.
Well the story just gets weirder from here lol. I went back to my friends house today to take another crack at the van. After I got it running she was driving it and came home her knee bumped the steering column and when it did she heard a pop and they checked the fuses and sure enough the ignition module fuse blew again.
I asked her when exactly did the problem with the two light displays staying on occur and she said that didn’t start happening till after they replaced the battery. I didn’t notice it when I first trouble shooted the van.
Anyways when I went back yesterday the battery was dead so I went ahead and jumped the battery. The two lights were on again. When I went to start the van I heard a clunk and all of the lights on the dash went off. I pulled the jumper cables and went to hook up my powerprobe to the battery since my DVOM was at home. And I couldn’t get any power off of the battery. All of the fuses including the ignition module fuse checked out ok. It was getting dark so I wasn’t able to check the fuses inside the cab.
She got the van from a dealer. I told her I’d honestly take it to them and see what they could do.
And Eric im sorry I missed your post. But I too wonder if I might have either a bad switch or if I pinched something with the wires. Theres 3 different connectors that go to the switch and they all have notches to prevent feeding the wrong wire into a port. Next time Im down there I plan on doube checking that install.
The only other thing is someone decided to run a wire to power the cooling fans via a toggle switch. Not sure why but that bothers me as well.
That’s my update for y’all tho
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