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Car is 1995 saturn sl1 Gm Car has abs
Can I just bleed the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder after I replace it? Or do I need to bleed the modulator to get it into home position. Wont it be in home position if I never turned the key should the brakes bleed fine at the wheel? Alot confustion about this vehicle. I went online some say that you can bleed some abs normally without having to bleed the bleed screws at the modulator? Before goin to the rear brakes? Can I just bleed off the wheel cylinder bleed screw and be done or is this abs more involved . Can I bleed this car if its been off overnight normally?hat are the steps of bleeding this system after replacing a wheel cylinder?
Should I go ahead replace bleed at the cylinder
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Glad to hear you got the car running again. If the ABS is re-homed properly for the rear brakes, it should be easy to bleed with a vacuum or pressure bleed system or using the master cylinder. The fronts have bypass solenoids so they can bleed even if the system is not re-homed. Remember when using the master cylinder method, it is much easier with two people: one pushes the brake pedal and the other opens and closes the bleeder valve at the caliper. 1) Open valve; 2) Push brake pedal to floor and hold it there; 3) Close bleeder valve; 4) Raise pedal. Repeat until air is gone from the fluid. Good luck.
How much vacuum is recommended for the bleeding for the abs bleeder screws.?
How much for the front and rear cylinders?
Since i did not have your engineering specs I was left with alot info that was hard to find online I found two that look reliable but hard to tell what to follow when it came to sequence of bleeding this system abs before doing my wheels.
When I started on the front I had printout on the delphi and it says bleed the front bleeders to get a home of the pistons in the abs . Some delphi vi want u to bleed the front bleeder first instead of the rear. But I bleed the rear first on my first try. I tried to pull 15 to 20 bar on it . but i could not squeeze a open end wrench and a vacuum line as tight as I wanted cause of the confined space . .I do not know of any vacuum specs required for bleeding brakes. With the ABS system properly re-homed, fluid flows easily through the system. If air is trapped in the lines all you are trying to do is flow the fluid out of the wheel cylinder and the air will come with it. Have you tried to manually bleed the brakes with the master cylinder. If done correctly, this works very well. See my response earlier that tells how to do it. (open caliper bleeder valve, push brake pedal down and hold, close valve, release pedal…. repeat until fluid runs clear). You can also do this with the bleeder valves on the ABS unit, but these should bleed very easily.
One other question. Did you get the rear brakes put back properly with all the springs hooked up correctly after you changed the wheel cylinder? This can also cause spongy brake pedal (excess travel).
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