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Hi.
My first post here. First off I’m nowhere near a car expert so I apologize if some of my questions seem basic and for my long post (please grab a beverage) but here is my situation:
For the past year or so the car stalls and usually when 1) Shifting from drive to reverse after giving it gas, going backwards and then stopping 2) When in a stop and go situation and giving it a little bit of gas it then stalls and just recently (I freaked out) 3) It has cut out completely on the highway (going >100kph) and there is no power to the gas pedal and I have to pull over and then the dash lights come on and I have to restart. In all these cases, the car will restart right away with.
This leads into my question for a fix. The Check Engine light has come on but maybe a year or so ago and not since then. I have taken the car into many shops and none can scan it. It has a 12pin ALDL connector under the steering wheel (see attached pic) It says OBD1 certified under the hood. I noticed that the pins on the ALDL are on the left instead of the right…does that make a difference? Also, is there a way to test if the port is defective? Or if the computer (is it the ECM?) is defective?
I have tried to find a scanner that will work that will not cost me as much as another vehicle. I’ve read about OBD 1.5 but I’m not sure if mine is that because it has the 12pin ALDL and not the 16pin
Would any of these scanners work?
Innova
3120d http://innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3120d
3140d http://innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3140d
3140e (Newer Version) http://innova.com/en-US/Product/Detail/3140e
31703 http://pro.innova.com/Product/FullDe…9-56689f996baaThese all say OBD1 but like I said with reading about OBD 1.5 I have no idea if they would work. Also, is it possible to read ABS codes and live data with any of these or can that even be done with OBD1?
For this stalling issue I’ve read about possible causes:
Fuel Injector
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
TPS
Alternator(?)If I can scan it it will hopefully pinpoint the issue it will save me a lot of $$$ for the shop trying to guess what it might be!
I have an emission test coming and am worried it won’t pass due to the stalling problems. Although it passed last time with no problems (and low readings)
Ok, that’s my first issue…How’s that beverage? Perhaps it needs a refill?
The 2nd issue relates to the multi function switch. I had it replaced about a year ago when I noticed smoke coming from the steering wheel) and the shop apparently broke a spring that is needed for the high beams to activate. They tried to get a replacement (3 different sources) but none of them fit. Does anyone have any idea as to what this part is called? I have a Haynes manual but it doesn’t show anything about this part. As this time my signals work (high beams don’t) however the left signal I have to hold down just slightly to get it to flash and many times I hear it flashing rapidly but the light doesn’t blink (bulb isn’t burnt out) so maybe it’s some kind of wiring issue? I was told to fix the signal issues I would have to find someone that can rebuild the streering column…
This car has 160kms on it and if I can get a few more years out of it I’d be very happy.
Any thoughts would be greatly apprecitated!
Thanks for reading.
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see if your connector has A and B to read codes. If not an auto part store may be
able to read the codes?Hello 🙂
On this 95 OBD1 you must ground terminal K. Not B as it is in most aldl.. And i think that why most code readers will not work. And i not belive you find one cheap reader that will work.. Tech2 or some Snapon scanners, and other pro scanner will do..
But you will read codes when jump K and A terminal.college man:
Thanks for that link! That will be perfect if/when I can get it scanned.
allhan:
What do you mean by “jump terminal A and K”? Is that where the connector is supposed to line up?
I’ve heard about the Tech scanner and I’ve gone to many shops and no one has one. My local shop did have a snap on scanner (not sure which model but the guy said it cost him $9000!) which they tried to scan and said it couldn’t communicate with the ALDL port. Could that mean it’s dead or the fact that the pins are backwards? How could I test for that?
I did get it back from my local shop and it doesn’t seem to stall when in stop and go traffic or when shifting from drive to reverse and backing up. Haven’t tried the highway yet. They replaced a crank sensor 7X, and serviced the IAC and Throttle Body. Another problem I’ve found with this car is that parts are VERY difficult to obtain. I’m located in Ontario, Canada and they’ve had to order parts many times (especially that spring for the high beams) from the states and end up getting the wrong part. At one time they had to special order an air filter!
Thanks again for any info you can provide.
[quote=”Drums5000″ post=144028]What do you mean by “jump terminal A and K”? [/quote]
It means to unfold a paper clip and stick it in those terminals.The ignition switch must then be moved to the “ON” position, with the engine not running. At this point, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) (Service Engine Soon/Check Engine) should flash “12” three times consecutively. This would be the following flash sequence: “flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash.” DTC 12 indicates that the diagnostic system is operating. If DTC 12 is not indicated, a problem is present within the diagnostic system itself.
Following the output of DTC 12, the MIL will flash each stored 2-digit diagnostic trouble code three times, if a diagnostic trouble code is present, or it will continue to output DTC 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in memory, the diagnostic trouble codes will be output from the lowest to the highest, with each diagnostic trouble code being displayed three times. Write these down. At the end, it will repeat from the beginning with the three DTC 12s.
It will continue to do this until the ignition switch is turned off. Now you can have a list of the trouble codes, if any.
After doing some research I’ve read that jumping the A and K pins could possible damage the ECM on this car due to there being no B pin. Not sure if this is accurate. If I was to try to jump those pins and it does damage the ECM how bad would that be? Would it make the car undriveable? (Sorry for the silly question) and how would I go about testing to see if the ALDL port is in fact dead? Maybe someone has already tried jumping the pins and thus damaged the ECM already I have no idea but that would explain why a lot of the shops can’t communicate with the ALDL to scan it.
If jumping it hurts the ecm thats a bad day. The ecm runs the car. according to this link
you will cause damage.Yeah that’s what I figured. So according to that link I need a Class 2 scan tool…How can I tell what scanners are Class 2? Are those the really really expensive ones? There is nothing in the $300-$500 range from Actron, Innova, Xray, etc that would work? I’m guessing that the ECM isn’t damaged because the car can still run but how could I check if the ALDL 12pin port is damaged?
Thanks again for all your help!
Just had a thought. This snap on scanner aka the red brick may work for your car.
they are plentiful and reasonable on ebay.
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