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I recently bought a 1995 Lexus ES300. The car ran fine and started without any problem. Before I bought the car the battery went dead due to the car sitting for several months without being started. The owner told me he tried to start the car but it wouldn’t so he took the battery out to charge it. When he put it back in the car was totally dead. I bought the car after this happened thinking it was just a dead battery. I thought when they took out the battery they messed up the anti-theft system so I towed the car home. I tested the battery and it was fine but no crank no start. I started checking the electrical system and found several blown fuses, including the 100amp Alt fuse. I replaced this fuse and the car would crank but not start. I tested the fuel pump by placing the key on but nothing happened. However, when I attempted to start the car it would crank and I could feel a vibration at the fuel pump leading me to believe the fuel pump is working. I’m wondering if the guy I bought the car from hooked up the battery wrong and if so what damage they may have caused and where I should go from here. I have check every fuse and relay and they are all good. I don’t know how to test the ecu or if there is a test for that. Any help would be appreciated.
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With the 100 amp and other fuses blown I believe your on the money with the battery
or jumper cables being hooked up wrong. No check engine light? fuel must be stale
from sitting. Do you have fuel or spark? more in this link.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
As college man suggested indicated on point points. If there aren’t a few main fuses, there may be more fuses that have been damaged. A fuses job is to literally self destruct when something goes wrong. If the fuel pump is working, you should hear it attempt to prime when you turn the key on with the engine off, for a few seconds. It might not be a bad idea to go through each fuse individually, at least under the hood to verify their state. I hooked a car up to a charger once and it popped the PCM fuse, it really only takes a small spike. Sometimes a seemingly unrelated fuse can cause a system to not function.
If it gets to the point of looking at the fuel, or the pump, or having to test at the pump, there should be an access panel either in the trunk or under the back seat.
When you are looking for general information, don’t forget an ES300 is a Camry. It’s probably easier to find info for a Camry.
Okay, so I have tried to determine if the fuel pump is working but it doesn’t do anything when I turn the key to on. If I turn the key all the way to start the engine cranks and I can feel a vibration at the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump making me think the pump is working. I was going to pick up one of those inline spark testers to see if I am getting spark. The fuel gauge seemed low so I added about 2 gallons of fresh gas to the tank. Still will not start. I have checked every fuse under the hood and on the instrument block under the dash by the drivers leg. Every fuse is good. I also checked the relays both for continuity and by using a 9v battery to see if I could get them to click. They all tested good. Are there any fuses by the ECU on the passengers side of the car that I should check. I couldn’t find any. If I get one of those spark checkers and I’m not getting any spark what should I do to follow up on that situation. I also shot some car starter spray into the intake but again it only cranked did not give any sign of starting making me think it is a no spark or some other type of electrical problem. I will also try to get a better test on the fuel pump to confirm if it is working or not. I guess I should first check to make sure I’m getting power to the fuel pump. Does anyone know for sure that the pump comes on when the key is turned to “On” or could it possibly only work if the key is turned all the way to “Start”.
No. I rec’d a couple of suggestions from Scanner Danner that I will be trying tomorrow. Basically, he has me testing for 5v reference from key components like the TPS. I have got the 5v reference at the TPS so he says at the least the ECU is working to that component. I need to try a few more tests to see if I can narrow it down any further. The igniter is receiving power so I’ll be testing if power can be sent to the coils/spark plugs. If it can then I might be back to testing the fuel pump further or it may be a limited frying of the ECU. Any suggestions you may have I’m open for any help. Thanks.
Start with the basics. You didn’t mention if you had gotten that spark tester or not. That would be a good start. Check for spark and fuel. Probably not a bad idea to do a compression test as well. The car wasn’t running when you got it. Who’s to say it doesn’t have a broken timing belt or something. Before you go blaming this sensor or that, start with the basics as it outlines in the article College Man linked for you.
Keep us posted.
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