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if the pulsation is felt in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied. then your rotors are warped
and need machining or replacement.C8-)Quoted From college man:
if the pulsation is felt in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied. then your rotors are warped
and need machining or replacement.C8-)I know, I’m just trying to confirm that it’s a huge deal to replace the rotors, Honda wants almost $600.
Here’s a video that I did on replacing those rotors if this is the type you have, the 6 cylinder Accords had slip on rotors that do not require this procedure. If there is enough material remaining on the rotors all you would need to do is have them machined on the car you just need to find a shop with an ‘on-the-car’ brake lathe, this would save you a great deal of money and effort.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Here’s a video that I did on replacing those rotors if this is the type you have, the 6 cylinder Accords had slip on rotors that do not require this procedure. If there is enough material remaining on the rotors all you would need to do is have them machined on the car you just need to find a shop with an ‘on-the-car’ brake lathe, this would save you a great deal of money and effort.
It’s a four. Thanks for the link. I think the rotors are original, I guess I could have them miked and see if there is room to have them turned. The pulsing isn’t that bad, might just let it go for now and have them miked to see how worn they are.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Here’s a video that I did on replacing those rotors if this is the type you have, the 6 cylinder Accords had slip on rotors that do not require this procedure. If there is enough material remaining on the rotors all you would need to do is have them machined on the car you just need to find a shop with an ‘on-the-car’ brake lathe, this would save you a great deal of money and effort.
I hate to open it up because the wheel bearings have 219,000 miles. I guess I could ignore that and just do the rotors if needed. Probably all of it needs to be done but they aren’t making any noise. If I can live with the rotors or get them turned, I think it would be better to wait until it needs a wheel bearing. The car only gets driven about 6000 miles per year. Will the wheel bearings give any warning when they go before they take out the hub?
Quoted From clearanceman:
I hate to open it up because the wheel bearings have 219,000 miles. I guess I could ignore that and just do the rotors if needed. Probably all of it needs to be done but they aren’t making any noise. If I can live with the rotors or get them turned, I think it would be better to wait until it needs a wheel bearing. The car only gets driven about 6000 miles per year. Will the wheel bearings give any warning when they go before they take out the hub?
I would just deal with having the rotors turned on the car for now. If you were to replace the rotors then at that point in time replace the wheel bearings. Bearings will start to make a thumping noise with no warning in the Honda’s that I have owned.
Quoted From fitone:
I would just deal with having the rotors turned on the car for now. If you were to replace the rotors then at that point in time replace the wheel bearings. Bearings will start to make a thumping noise with no warning in the Honda’s that I have owned.
Eric and all: What do you guys think of this conversion, the top one would fit my car it replaces the hubs and bearings and converts them to slide on rotors. Comes with hubs, bearings already fit and slide on rotors and pads for $399. I’m going to mic my rotors and see. If they are too thin, maybe wait until I need pads anyway and then do this?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
I would replace the rotors and bearings if you plan on keeping the vehicle. If not, just have the rotors machined while there on the vehicle. make sure you use a quality pad though.
I plan to keep the car until it either is not cost effective to fix or someone hits it and totals it. So as far as I can go with it.
[quote]Quoted From clearanceman:
Eric and all: What do you guys think of this conversion, the top one would fit my car it replaces the hubs and bearings and converts them to slide on rotors. Comes with hubs, bearings already fit and slide on rotors and pads for $399. I’m going to mic my rotors and see. If they are too thin, maybe wait until I need pads anyway and then do this?
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=192100&h=75&d=271
I think I would check the price on a bearing removal tool kit that you could use to remove the bearings when needed. It would probably work on other vehicles too and you would have it for your next vehicle and an addition to your tool box.
Quoted From johnbkobb:
I think I would check the price on a bearing removal tool kit that you could use to remove the bearings when needed. It would probably work on other vehicles too and you would have it for your next vehicle and an addition to your tool box.
Maybe this? http://www.amazon.com/4579-9-Way-Slide- … 079&sr=8-4 if I am going to change the bearings anyway….
Is this helpful?
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Bearing-Rac … sim_auto_2W-| If you perform the procedure in the video that I made replacing the bearings is NOT necessary as you never have to separate them the OE bearings last a good lone time and don’t often have problems even at high mileage, it’s when you try and ‘short cut’ the job by just slide hammering the hub off splitting the bearing that the bearing problems come up. MANY have asked about the conversion in the past and I’ll respond the same way I always do, if you want to spend the money and do the extra work now to save yourself a little time in the future go for it but if you follow what’s in the video it’s really not that bad and you can set yourself up for the ‘next time’ by lubricating the right parts and cleaning them before reassembly. I still stand by the on-the-car machining as this is a VERY affordable solution and yields great results.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
W-| If you perform the procedure in the video that I made replacing the bearings is NOT necessary as you never have to separate them the OE bearings last a good lone time and don’t often have problems even at high mileage, it’s when you try and ‘short cut’ the job by just slide hammering the hub off splitting the bearing that the bearing problems come up. MANY have asked about the conversion in the past and I’ll respond the same way I always do, if you want to spend the money and do the extra work now to save yourself a little time in the future go for it but if you follow what’s in the video it’s really not that bad and you can set yourself up for the ‘next time’ by lubricating the right parts and cleaning them before reassembly. I still stand by the on-the-car machining as this is a VERY affordable solution and yields great results.
Thanks, I was going by the idea of replacing the bearings so it didn’t matter if I split them. But if 220,000 isn’t necessarily the end for the bearings, I’ll mic the rotors and if there is enough thickness left have them turned on the car once I can’t stand the pulsing anymore. If they have to be replaced, I’ll just do the rotors and then later if I need to to the bearings, I’ll do that.
Personally, I like to stick with OEM-ish stuff, if you aren’t upping the performance of the car. You could probably do the pads/rotors for 1/3 the price of that kit. If the bearings aren’t bad, I wouldn’t mess with ’em. That’s just me.
[quote]Quoted From clearanceman:
Eric and all: What do you guys think of this conversion, the top one would fit my car it replaces the hubs and bearings and converts them to slide on rotors. Comes with hubs, bearings already fit and slide on rotors and pads for $399. I’m going to mic my rotors and see. If they are too thin, maybe wait until I need pads anyway and then do this?
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=192100&h=75&d=271
I have seen this kit as well. I was curious about others experience after using this conversion kit. Did you try to Google and see if any feedback was available. I would also base using that kit on how long you plan to keep the car vs the expense.
Quoted From Beefy:
Personally, I like to stick with OEM-ish stuff, if you aren’t upping the performance of the car. You could probably do the pads/rotors for 1/3 the price of that kit. If the bearings aren’t bad, I wouldn’t mess with ’em. That’s just me.
I think you are right about the leaving the bearings alone, but the rotors are $75 each and the bearings $61 each discount if that all has to be replaced. Hubs would make the total even higher if the bearings ate up the hubs. So if it needed bearings, the choice is less clear. I just wonder how much longer my bearings will last 219,000 seems like overtime.
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