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Is it possible that you don’t have a broken inner rod and just a bent one? I would follow Eric’s advice. You have to check for evidence to warrant a repair.
Quoted From Bad_dude:
Is it possible that you don’t have a broken inner rod and just a bent one? I would follow Eric’s advice. You have to check for evidence to warrant a repair.
Took it to the alignment shop, they replaced the outer tie rod for next to nothing (I brought them the OEM part). They said it tightened it up and they were able to align it. Thanks all. I guess everything is suspect to me since the car has 219,000 and all the suspension but the shocks is original. But they said everything else is tight.
Stranger things have happened. I have a 2000 legacy with 226,000 miles that has the original front struts. I know they should be completely shot but they still feel good and they pass the bounce test.
Quoted From Bad_dude:
There’s more to strut testing then a bounce test. I have a 90 Accord with all original struts. They are still doing well and pretty stiff. The bounce test only works on real bad struts. There are little bounce that we can’t test but only a computerized machine could. Unless you are racing or real picky, most people won’t mind as long as they don’t bounce like mad. As soon as I get a job, I am replacing the struts. The KYBs are real nice at only $50 a piece. They are a little better than the OEM ones.
It’s weird though because my 95 accord needed shocks (accords are technically coil over shocks, not struts) by 150,000 and when I changed them (KYBs) at 185,000 they were awful. If you went over a big dip, it felt like the car was going to bounce off the road. The Subaru needed rear struts at 180,000, I changed them. It needed springs too and I just bought used struts/springs off ebay from another legacy with 80,000 miles. Anyway, the fronts still feel great. They don’t even feel bad which is why I thought it was strange because the rears (and springs) went 50,000 miles ago and the Accord’s didn’t really make it past 160,000.
Quoted From Beefy:
Well, I’m glad you got yer ride fixed for next to nothing man. Well done.
Thanks for the help, I definitely learned something. At some point, I need to look at Eric’s video on removing the valve train again since I need to replace the lower spark plug tube seals. That one worries me a bit, but I’ll just take my time with it.
Quoted From Bad_dude:
There’s more to strut testing then a bounce test. I have a 90 Accord with all original struts. They are still doing well and pretty stiff. The bounce test only works on real bad struts. There are little bounce that we can’t test but only a computerized machine could. Unless you are racing or real picky, most people won’t mind as long as they don’t bounce like mad. As soon as I get a job, I am replacing the struts. The KYBs are real nice at only $50 a piece. They are a little better than the OEM ones.
Honda, and now that I’ve seen and experienced them first hand, Subaru struts are some of the best I’ve seen. Don’t go by the ‘bounce’ test but rather look for external leakage, if you don’t see any the strut is good, period. I would strongly recommend against KYB’s especially on Hondas as it will never ride the same (much worse in my opinion, LOTS of body roll where there was none before), if you do actually need struts go with OE as I have yet to see anything else work as good.
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