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I Have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with 196,100 Miles. On the way to work the radiator blew on the freeway, and was 100% on H, pulled over shut the car off immediately and got it towed home. Replaced the radiator and bled the system but noticed the fan never turned on. As I drove it today it started to rise to the halfway point and still as i checked the fans neither was on. Turned the car off and the radiator fan turned on. So what could be the issue? The fan still operates but for whatever reason it isn’t turning on as its running. Is there anything I can do to just have the fan running the whole time so I can at least drive it home today (only live 5 miles away)?
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You could still have air in the system.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
If I remember correctly, you can short fan sensor to turn on fan the whole time. There is a two pins plug near radiator. Unplug it and short two pins (a paper clip would work). Then, the fan will turn on whenever you have fan turn on.
I now know why, it was still leaking fluid (and transmission fluid as well) cause the hose clamps were loose. Made a mistake there tightened those and fixed that. Also the reason it overheated in the first place is Im missing a bolt on the thermostat housing I never noticed was missing, causing a slow leak till i didn’t notice it, then the pressure must have blew the radiator. I added a bolt and just refilled the trans with generic ATF (I know I know bad for Honda’s its only so I can drive the thing home then ill replace it with proper Honda ATF Fluid. Its better then it running dry) and will see if this fixes it for now.
OK bleed the system of any remaining air. It did bubble for a little bit then stopped. Left it idling for 10 minutes but same thing the fan never turns on and started to rise to the midway point. For whatever reason the radiator fan isn’t working right.
If i shut the car off the radiator fan turns on like its ment to when its high as it gets. So the fuse, and relay i believe should be good. Is there any way to test the coolant temperature sensor to see if its the reason my fans arn’t operating when the engine is running?
Unless the bolt was holding part of the thermostat housing down it isn’t necessary. There is one extra hole there but it’s normally for the injector ground. If that’s not connected, you might want to connect it.
As stated many times make sure you’ve bleed the system properly.
If the fan still acts up after that. Look to the fan timer. It’s a common issue on Hondas and causes erratic fan operation. It’s located to the left of the glove box near the center console up under the dash normally. Sometimes it’s mounted with the PCM under the passenger floor board. This is a different vehicle, but it had a similar issue.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I have no idea if this can be related but I want to throw it out there cause it didnt begin to do this till the HVAC Controls stopped working (Cant turn on the blower, AC, nothing) I checked every fuse and they all are good. I tried another assembly I had laying around and same thing.
Mostly I drive back and forth a max of 10 miles, and always got to operating temp, i never really notice overheats but the day it did fail was a day i drove more then my usual amount and was in traffic.
I also jumped the engine coolant temp switch (At the thermostat housing) and still no fans turn on. Tested the fans and they both turn on when applied direct 12V. Checked the relay as well and its good and also used the one next to it that works the power windows which is the same type as I knew it was working.
I checked continuity/resistance from the fan control module’s green wire to the green wire of the temp switch. Seems to be fine (.03 if i remember after taking out the probes resistance).
All i haven’t checked yet is the ground and the green wire to the relay which I’m going to check soon.
OK Finally found out why all this time the fans didnt work.
I was checking why my HVAC Heater Control isn’t working as well and noticed the Black/Yellow wire is only giving out .168V which is spoce to be battery voltage when the ignition is on. Checking out the power distribution to that circuit also seems to go to as well the radiator fan control unit. Checked the voltage on the same wire on the control unit and it read .098V.
Found out after all that the Yellow wire from the ignition switch was open, which goes to fuses 7, 8, and 10. repaired it and bam everything started working.
I hate electrical problems! :angry:
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