1995 FORD F-150 XLT 302ci 5.0L 4WD

I will hopefully get to posting more pics of the truck and specific fixes later, but:

So far I’ve fixed/replaced:
Clockspring
both radius arm bushings
both lower ball joints
caster/camber bolts
both outer tie rods
front brake rotors
front brake pads
repacked front bearings
replaced 2 rear brake lines
replaced old DOT3 brake fluid and bled
installed new headunit with bluetooth and hands free mic
new rear 5×8 sony speakers(since I had to remove covers anyhow for headliner)
headliner
and of course all common tune-up items(plugs, filters, etc)
cruise control servo/speed servo

Things left on the basics list:
Transfer case fluid flush/replace
AT fluid flush
differentials fluids

Things left on the aesthetics/get to when money is there for it:
cracks in dash
discoloration of windshield (likely need replacing as it’s the plastic between layers near corners)
re-upholstering seats
carpet and sound dampening
fix rear fender cancer/rust
knock out dents in roof, and sides using paintless tools
repaint

Cruise control fix, for anyone with an E, F, or Bronco series in this generation:
Been meaning to get this out somewhere, sometime when I had time, just in case anyone else has a similar issue with their cruise control. This issue was driving me bonkers for a bit, as everything checked out, including the TSB/recall issue for this generation. Once I thought about it a bit, I turned my focus to the speed control servo, once I removed the interchangeable electronic controller off of it I found the issue:

Looks fine right?:
[url=http://postimg.org/image/v4phbjksv/]

Survey says, “eeeeeeeee”, wrong answer:
[url=http://postimg.org/image/4iah5ufwz/]
Motor locked from rust and corrosion, couldn’t spin it at all, had to beat on it, which free’d it, but damage was done as it still didn’t function.

I spent $50(over $500 more for a new one, the most expensive being for the trucks) for a replacement from a salvage yard, and got one from an E-150 302 5.0L to replace not just the servo but the controller, which likely suffered damage due to the motor seizing. I checked to make sure it held it’s seal by verifying no internal rust was present and I could spin the motor from the larger gear without much effort.

It’s not completely air-tight under ideal circumstances, but fairly close, which my old one obviously was not. The replacement I made sure to use some silicone sealer around the plastic cable holder on the front of the replacement, and the factory gasket for the electronic controller just to ensure this one will last longer than the original.

They’re all differing part #’s, but really, if you get the one for the same size engine, they are interchangeable, aside from the cable to the servo which is easily swapped out. The servo motor and case is the same for all of them, so long as you know the controller is fine, you can just swap the cards.