Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 1995 BMW 525i Waterpump?
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March 9, 2013 at 9:48 pm #507531
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjVwL75ORFw
Your thoughts?
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March 9, 2013 at 9:56 pm #507532
Hmmm. Apparently links to youtube videos are no longer allowed. My question, which was on the video, was I am seeing moisture on the engine side of the radiator hoses and the fan blade. Am I looking at a waterpump job?
March 9, 2013 at 10:01 pm #507533check the water pump weep hole.also grab the
fan and see if it wiggles or has play. when
was the last time the hoses got replaced?
This video will show you what to look for.March 9, 2013 at 10:49 pm #507544Gives me some tracks to run on! Thanks!
March 9, 2013 at 11:06 pm #507552[quote=”popoften” post=52671]Gives me some tracks to run on! Thanks![/quote]
Your most welcome. 🙂
March 9, 2013 at 11:07 pm #507554[quote=”popoften” post=52671]Gives me some tracks to run on! Thanks![/quote]
Your most welcome.keep us posted 🙂
March 10, 2013 at 9:12 am #507691What I am seeing is water pump leaking/weeping on top of thermostat housing. On this car the OE thermost housing is supposed to be made out of black plastic, but it looks like metal so my guess is some one has changed it to metalic aftermarket thermostat housing. Also the front part of water pump is metal, but back side impller is made out of plastic. So these water pumps are not rebuildable, you would have to replace it and replace it with after market water pump with the metal impeller. You can either get aftermarket metal water pump /w metal impeller or take chance with another BMW Plastic Impeller (the newly designed ones are known to be much stronger). All I can say is I have seen many of these water pumps fail and if water pump comes out in one piece consider yourself lucky. Often it splits inside the negine and you would have to suck all the small plastic pieces out using a shop vac.
The fan clutch is reverse threaded and it will take 32mm wrench, but typical 32mm wrench is way too thick to hold fan cluth with. You can grind about 1/4″ from your standard 32mm wrench to make it thinner, or get BMW special tool (about $35) or you can get 32mm thin wrench from bike shop for $20. Either way you want to hold the water pump using one of the 4 10mm nut, and position your 32mm wrench and weck it hard to the right (reverse threaded direction to spin the nut clock wise). If this is the first time removing the fan clutch it usually takes couple of hard wecks that that loose. After fan is out of the way, you can undo the 4 10mm nuts and remove the water pump.
While you are at it, BMW use Behr radiators. These radiators use plastic radiator neck that get brittle over time and splits. The same problem exists for Mercedes, Volvo,… While you hae that open you may want insert metal reinforcement under the plastic neck or if radiator is over 8 years old I would just replace it. That is #1 BMW failure point – these things snaps at worst of times and over heat the engine to cause head gasket failure.
Behr plastic neck reinforcement
http://www.mercedessource.com/node/710water pump with Plastic impellers
http://bmwdriver.org/bmw-water-pump-replacement/March 26, 2013 at 12:19 am #511304The best way to find the source of a coolant leak is by pressure testing the system. The procedure is outlined in this video.
Once you find and repair the leak it’s imperative that you purge the air from the system to avoid future problems. Here’s a video on the basics of how to do that.
Don’t worry if you don’t have a bleeder valve as those just make filling the system easier.
Keep us posted on your progress.
March 26, 2013 at 9:26 am #511429[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=54527]
Don’t worry if you don’t have a bleeder valve as those just make filling the system easier.
Keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]
All BMWs have coolant bleeder valves. For older engines (up to 1992 M40, M20, M30 engines) it is located on top of thermostat housing. For later engines (M50, M60,- ) it is right next to coolant reservior. You would have to run the engine up to the operating temperature and slowly open the black plastic screw until you see a clean stream of coolant flows out. This step is outlined in the Bentley manual. Also ALWAYS use BMW coolant. Only use aftermarket coolant if you are planning on flushing the cooling system every year.
March 26, 2013 at 3:18 pm #511454ETC, you da man, and this is a great idea. I will review the videos, get myself a pressure tester kit, and have at it. I’ll try to get and post video of my project.
July 13, 2013 at 5:31 pm #536648Realized I never posted an update. Bought the pressure test kit as Eric advised. I am glad I did, as leak wasn’t from the waterpump at all. At was from where the hose connects to the upper part of the radiator. EASY fix! I have since used said pressure test kit to quickly diagnose problems on a couple of my other cars.
THANKS GUYS!
July 13, 2013 at 8:50 pm #536680Glad to hear it worked out.Thanks for the update and the fix. 😉
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