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I am going to list alot of links here for Eric’s video’s.
I would also look at the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Next time the vehicle dies while driving, try to jiggle the key in the ignition.
If it still fails to start, then see if its missing spark or fuel.
No start basics –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539 … t3EVppbf88
No start due to main relay issue (if your vehicle has one equiped) –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60 … 99HlbSvyqQ
No spark diagnosis –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhh … aIBfLq1I68
Solving Honda idle problems –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEV … foisZWSlx5
Eric idle speech –
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=1134
Good luck and keep us posted!
Is the cel on ? you should check for codes even if it is not lit up. a failed distributor should set a code.
A+ on looking at the electrical portion of the ignition switch. sounds like your on your way to checking the basics. good luck and keep us posted. C8-)
There is no CEL on. I am going to check for spark at the plugs today and work my way to the distributor. I will keep you guys posted.
Driveway Al
1995 Acura Integra 1.8L. Okay, I checked and there is no spark at the plugs, ignition coil, and nothing coming from the ignition control module. I went by Eric video on checking all of these. I also checked the 50A ign. fuse and it seems to be okay. I am assuming now that it may be the ignition control module AKA ignitor. It is a little pricey to replace this. Is there a good parts supply where it is more affordable? Should I be looking at maybe a salvage yard? Or should I just replace the distributor. I am assuming the ign. coil, ignitor are included with new distributor. Is there anything else I should look at before replacing the parts? Thanks for any help. Need this car working because my truck is getting to expensive to fuel.
Driveway Al
You want to stay with OEM. That is something Eric preachers on these Honda’s as they dont seem to like aftermarket distributors.
why spend the money on an entire distributor. check the igniter. if you have a test light. clip the light on + and the probe on – crank the car and the light should pulse. before you condemn the igniter check that you have 12v on the positive to ground. with the key on. only use OE parts good luck and keep us posted. C8-)
I checked the ignitor just as you have mentioned. The reason why I was going to replace the entire distributor was because it is not much more than just buying the ignitor. I still want to check the ignition switch and make sure I am getting power delivered from there. I am not sure if Eric has a video for that. Thanks.
Driveway Al
DO NOT REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR!!!!! I want to shoot someone every time I read that. Aftermarket distributors for Honda’s are JUNK! don’t use them.
Enough of my rant. If you follow the steps in this video with just a test light you’ll know if you have a bad igniter, if you want to reap the rewards of driving a dependable fuel efficient car for a good long time I would strongly suggest you buy the Honda part, if not you’re stuck with aftermarket garbage. I do however have a source for Honda parts that can save you a few bucks.
The video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ
The siteAlso be sure you use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs only, don’t replace the wires if they are OE as they last just about forever, the cap and rotor are less critical but getting OE parts here too is a great idea. Honda ignition systems are pretty sensitive to other parts in fact I often see more failures of coils and igniters with aftermarket parts on Honda ignition systems I know it costs more to use Honda parts but if you do you wont’ have to worry about it, if you don’t well I’m sure you’ll be buying more stuff in the end that will eat up and savings you had initially.
Thanks for the advice Eric about the Honda Parts. I followed your step by step as the video suggest. Since I do not have even power from the ignitor, how do I go about checking the ignition switch as well before I buy the Honda ignitor. Thanks.
Driveway Al
Power doesn’t come from the igniter it comes from a fuse under the dash if I’m not mistaken, if you don’t have power to the distributor check all the fuses both under the hood and under the dash.
As for an ignition switch that’s a little tricky with a no start, sometimes if it’s just the electrical part of the switch that’s bad you can hold the key just past the run position after it starts and the engine will run as long as you hold the key, if this is the case then replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch, if not then check the fuses as suggested.
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