- This topic has 19 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Okay so i have had some new issues with my Civic. It all started with it shutting off at the store, I started it up backed out of slot shifted to take off, check light came on and car shut off/ wouldn’t turn over. Well i pushed it back into a slot and called my boss to get me as i was working at the time. Later that night i was able to get a local auto parts store to come test for code. We got a code of 15. He told me it was listed as ignition system problem. I got the car to turn over and moved it to the auto parts location. We ran through the known suspects. Alternator test good, new starter, distributor, both i had replaced within the last year. Bought new plugs wires cap router installed them. Drove fine for the next day. Second day after new parts install it happened again as i was traveling down the highway to work. I pulled to the side of the road turned key to off position, thought well lets see if she will fire back up. Sure enough started right away. Got the rest of the way to work no further issues. On my way home same thing shut off check light activated, as in the morning turned off back on and fired right away, (i have to turn it all the way to off position or it wont turn over and light stays on.) So as this is my only way to and from work and i live in the sticks getting this figured out is a must. Any ideas are welcome as im a mechanical dummy when it comes to knowing why, i can usually do the work without an issue. Thanks Ron
-
Replies
-
Further info, i have watched vids, main pump relay has a bad solder ill be fixing today. only other issues i could find in my research was my ecm? I hope this is not the case. If there are simple fixes or tests to do on it please let me know. Thanks Ron
Sounds like almost exactly what my Accord was doing . . .which turned out to be a bad ignitor (ignition module / ICM) in the distributor. There is a testing procedure you can go through to narrow this down. Many folks will swap in a dizzy from the scrap yard and call it a day. I put a new ignitor in mine (aftermarket, surprisingly, it has worked for 3 years now)
I’m not 100% sure your distributor is the same as mine. My dizzy is ’94 external coil. This is the procedure for testing the ICM for my car:
remove distributor cap, rotor and leak cover
disconnect wires from ICM
turn ignition switch on. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
If there is no battery voltage check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM for breaks / shorts
If there IS battery voltage check for voltage between the (BLU wire for F22B1 engines, GRN wire for F22B2 engines, or WHT/BLU wire for all other engines) and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
If there is not battery voltage check the ignition coil, or the above wire between the coil and the ICM.
If there IS battery voltage, check the YEL/GRN wire between the tachometer and the ICM for continuity.
Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and ICM for continuity.
If all tests are normal, the ICM is bad, replace it.
Hope this helps.
code 15 is ignition related. check the ignitor and coil.
If found faulty.Replace with Honda OE parts as Honda does
not run well with aftermarket parts.http://www.justanswer.com/honda/319os-code-15-91-accord-book-says-its-ignition-output.html
Thanks for the info fellas i will get right on that later today, as for the code pull i went ahead and ran the code check again after some research. i found that there are 2 codes not just the one. the other was 3 (map) code so i get a couple of fun things to play with. also i haven’t been able to research it yet but the SRS light was also flashing. So ill be getting to that as well.
Thanks again for the info, I’ll be getting you fellas some +’s here real soon.
RonI also have a speed sensor issue is it possible to clean it and go from there, or is it best to just get a new one?
Thanks for any help!
RonI think your problem might be a bad ignition switch. Try wiggling the key around while the engine is running to see if it makes it stall.
And YES, replace the speed sensor.
Well lets run down the issues, one last time here.
1. must get new speed sensor ( auto parts guy told me to try cleaning) now this was before I received the post from wysetech. Here’s how that went for me. As it was very easy for me to get the wrench down to the sensor to loosen the bolts. I cautiously applied pressure to loosen them and I got the break free feeling, so I though nice not gonna be to tough to get this done. that’s when the facts started to catch up. Yes it broke free alright snapped the dam thing. :ohmy:
So yes I will be getting a new one of those.2. cleaned the map went from just giving a code no check light to check light and no start.
3. and the one the makes a guy go :unsure: :huh: :angry: 👿
I pull the cap off the test the coil and ignitor and what do I find. Oil……
Now I watched Eric’s vid post http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ and remember something about oil not being a good thing here. I will be watching it again as soon as I’m finished with this post. Any ways I decided to go ahead and check for that spark from coil, and the test to the – connection from the ignitor so I got spark from coil and nothing from the – connection.So now I’m looking at the this mess of trouble thinking why me.
Also this distributor is rather new I had it fail on me a couple years ago, so to see I’m getting more issues from this system from the same parts I’m a little unsure of what I should do. So before I start to behave in a way that’s not good for public knowledge I decided to get my but in the house and post this.Always a good time to want a position as a postal worker.
Well thanks again to all that are helping and the ones who might join in on this epic adventure.
RonCleaning MAP sensors is not a good idea. They aren’t like MAF sensors and don’t respond well to cleaning.
That said, what you describe sounds like an ignition switch problem. It’s very common on Hondas of that vintage. As suggested, try wiggling the key while the engine is running to see if the engine stalls. If it does, replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. You don’t need to replace the entire thing.
I don’t recommend aftermarket parts for Honda ignition systems as I’ve seen many issues with them. I also recommend avoiding aftermarket distributors for Hondas as they are also known to cause issues.
Good luck.
Although Honda does NOT sell the internal seal for the distributor any more, the original manufacturer does sell it. If I search around here some, I might be able to find where I got mine from, but I think I just looked the park number up on a Honda dealers parts site, then searched for the part number on the net. At any rate, tearing the distributor apart, cleaning out the oil that is in it, and replacing that seal (and you might as well do the O rings too. They don’t leak oil INTO the distributor, they leak it outside, but as long as you are there . .) isn’t a terribly difficult job. I did mine probably 3 odd years ago, and haven’t had a lick of trouble with it leaking oil since.
Thanks guys, As for the ignition I did try the wiggling while it’s running. I had no change to the idle, smooth and steady. Now that’s the weird thing about all this. It fires right away drives fine at one moment then not the next. I haven’t given up yet though. I will get this all figured out.
Also I have a new code as of this morning I have a feeling that a lot has been wearing down for awhile but I just didn’t figure it out till something major took place.
Thanks again everyone.
RonI went and looked up that oil seal for you, since you have oil in the dizzy, that is def a problem.
To be honest, I would probably pick up a used OEM dizzy from the scrap yard, then change out the seal, O ring, cap and rotor.
Anyhow, the oil seal you need is made by NOK, and is PART#: W0133-1640599 Google that and you will come up with plenty of sources for it.
I forgot to state what the new code was its a 9 No.1 position sensor, After trouble shooting i found the ignitor was bad i changed it out today. but as par normal it still reads the same codes. Im researching the location for this as we speak. thanks again to all that are helping me out here.
Ron
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.