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I have a transmission that is giving me some sort of grief. When i shift from 1-2, my gears mildly grind. More of a crunch than a grind. It also does it from 2-3. The next part of this diagnostic is that it only does it when the transmission is cold, and when i havent driven it for a few miles. After i drive it, it becomes fine, but once in a while it can be hard to place second gear easily, as i have to put a little more pressure than i should. Is this my synchronizers going out, or does it have any indication of a failing clutch? Reason i ask about the clutch starting it is that when i drive 2nd gear or 3rd
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I would find out from the dealer by giving them the VIN# that you are using the correct oil in the tranny.
How many miles are on it?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7JJ_g2UuBI
That’s Eric’s video on clutch diagnosis. Start with this, as it’s free.
Good luck, and welcome to the forums. 🙂
Welcome to the forums!
I would first start by checking your clutch linkage for adjustment or the hydraulics in case of air in the system as well as checking your clutch pedal free play. You also may want to check your shifter too to make sure its adjusted correctly.
I worked on a 98 VW Golf with the 5 speed 02a and it would always grind in reverse and first gear. The shifter was not aligned as it should. So that was a simple fix.
Here are some video’s by Eric that may help you.
Diagnosing a bad clutch –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7JJ_g2U … yyMYSZRIOn
Adjusting a cable operated clutch –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4CUBB01 … foisZWSlx5
Replacing clutch hydraulics (as well as showing how to bleed them)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-m5F0zE … 6R7FhqGQgv
Well if you have engine oil in there that is the first problem. The manual states that IN AN EMERGENCY you can put motor oil in there but you should really be using Honda fluid, if you’ve been running motor oil or gear oil your syncros may be bad. It also sounds like you might be having a clutch issue, use the clutch diagnosis video to verify this.
This is kind of a tough call because if you do need a clutch the trans is going to have to come out and there would be no better time to replace the syncros in the transmission however the ‘grinding’ could also be a result of a clutch that’s not fully releasing. What I’m getting at is that you could replace the clutch and put the correct fluid in there only to find that you need to replace the syncros anyway.
So the new plan of attack would be to check the clutch itself. What weight oil is the honda fluid? Also, would a bad clutch also make that “surging” feel when i accelerate, other than the EGR, which i replaced the valve and cleaned the ports. (I could not have dreamed of even getting carb cleaner through them because they were soo clogged). I will also check my clutch master cylinder, even though i adjusted the pedal so that there is a little free play at the top, but no pressure on the cylinder itself when the pedal is up. (the master and slave cylinders are brand new, did those about 3000 miles ago) amd to answer the mileage question, there is 187k on it.
‘Surging feel’ as in high RPM’s and the vehicle not moving?
I would highly recommend going to a Honda dealership for your transmission fluid for that vehicle.
The links i posted above should help in diagnostics of a clutch issue.
it is a surging in low rpm (1500-2100) in only 2nd and 3rd gears. Is the fluid sold in quarts or do i have to pay labor for them to put their bulk amount in? it is extremely easy for me to just take the wheel off and get to the filler and drain plugs.
ok, so i bought 6 quarts of the honda fluid (only took 2, but i have some for reserve considering the nearest dealership is about 20 miles away), and I will see what comes of it. if nothing improves over the next few hundred miles to an oil change ( i change mine no more than 3000 miles), i will look into seeing what a transmission rebuild costs for parts (I am assuming about 500 or so for parts, and labor will kill if i have to have that), and where to buy the best from. Ill let you guys know what comes of it. You have been very helpful. Also, I really liked Eric’s video on the clutch hydraulics, because that helped me 100% understand how to change the faulty master cylinder and slave about a month ago. (irony that the day after i watched that, my reservior was dry, and it was leaking on the firewall as he showed)
For future reference you can buy Honda fluids and parts online from a number of dealers for much cheaper than at the dealer location. I use Bernardiparts.com they even have an online microfiche where you can view parts diagrams. There are a handful of dealers who do this online. If I order something today, I usually would gt it the nxt day.
The surge you describe could be a slipping clutch, here’s how to check it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7JJ_g2UuBIIt could also be EGR passages that are clogged or an ignition issue but I would lean more toward a clutch issue so I would check that first.
The grind went away, and so did the surging. for the time being at least when i put the honda trans fluid in. My EGR is clean, i cleaned that a while ago, along with replacing the valve because the diaphragm was worn out, but not failing. So for now, the fluid was the fix. Thanks for all the comments and help.
Also, Eric, i cannot say enough how much easier the hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder replacement was with seeing a car that was 95% like mine, and the way to bleed it was far easier than i thought. Luckily, as you said in the video, i had a friend help me with the process, or else it would have very well been a calorie burning day.
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