1994-1997 Honda ABS Light

I asked about the CV shaft because the reluctor ring is part of the CV shaft, and it is possible to get a non ABS CV shaft, and install it into an ABS car, which will cause that particular wheels speed sensor to not work. Changing the upper control arm / ball joint assembly, and inner / outer tie rod ends shouldn’t cause any problems, though the outer tie rod end is fairly close to the location of the wheel speed sensor, so it is possible that a slip with a hammer, pickle fork, or pry bar could cause damage to the sensor.

If you can, post that video up so we can have a look at it. Sometimes knowing what to expect helps you to understand what you are seeing. I’ve pulled ABS codes a few times on these cars, so I know what they look like.

Also as a note. ABS light has been on before I made any pf the repairs i told you about earlier so I doubt its due to that.

Great job with the video, almost like being there to pull the codes myself 🙂

That is flashing two codes. The first code is 4 – 4 and the second is 1 – 8. 4 – 4 is wheel sensor right rear. That isn’t a big deal. The second code is high pressure system. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to fix that is to replace the entire ABS pump. That is likely an expensive proposition.

The good news is, the ABS is kind of an add on for the 94 – 97 Accords. If you pull the fuse, the ABS light will go off, and the brakes will work exactly like a non ABS car would.

I ran my last Accord (’94) with the ABS disconnected (instead of pulling the fuse, I unplugged the ABS computer which is in the passengers side foot well, behind the kick panel) for a bit over 2 years. It doesn’t cause any harm, won’t lessen the life of the brakes or anything else, and is exactly the same as driving a non ABS version of the car.

The labor to install a new ABS pump isn’t terribly bad, in most cases less than two hours work, but finding a good pump is going to be a challenge. Buying used isn’t advisable, as failures in these pumps are pretty common, and with the age of these cars, finding new, or re-manufactured units is getting difficult, and they aren’t cheap. Add in the fact that you will still likely need that right rear wheel speed sensor, and it adds up to a pile of cash.

In my experience, if there isn’t a bunch of oil inside the distributor, and the main shaft doesn’t wiggle all over the place, then it is unlikely that there are any problems with it. It is likely any problems you are having with it not running smoothly are elsewhere.

Yes, you can unplug the ABS computer yourself. I’d show you what it looks like, but I no longer have an ABS equipped Accord.