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ok guys i have another post im checking my distbutor for volts i was told to disconnect lead wires turn switch on use the red lead on meter on the blue wire on distbutor and black on body ground i did that and my meter read .60 and on the black/yellow wire it was 0 and to check conn put red lead on black/yellow and black [on meter] on blue wire the reading was 0.19 and then put red lead on blue[on distubtor]and black [meter] on black/yellow[distubator] the reading on meter was -0.16 now does this sound right thanks
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I don’t have a manual for the ’93 handy, but I do have a ’94 manual, and the wire colors in the distributor are the same, so I am guessing that the testing procedure is the same. Are you absolutely certain you know how to use your volt meter?
Test between the battery terminals and make certain that you are getting 12 volts. Also test between the positive battery terminal, and what ever you are using for body ground when testing the distributor, and make certain you are again seeing a full 12v. That “body ground” has to be clean metal on the engine or body. If there is rust, oxidation, paint, etc. then you will not get an accurate voltage reading.
With cap and rotor removed, and the wiring disconnected from the Ignition Control Module. Between the blue wire and ground, you should get full battery voltage (12V). If there is not 12v there, you either have a bad coil, or a break in the blue wire between the ignition coil, and the Ignition Control Module. Test the blue wire for continuity, then test the ignition coil.
Between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground you should get 12v. If not, check for continuity in the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch, and the Ignition Control Module.
Some of those tests don’t sound right at all to me though. You should test, in this order:
1 BLK/YEL to body ground for 12v
2 BLU to body ground for 12v
3 continuity in the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and ICM
4 continuity in the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICMIf all tests are normal, then the ICM has failed.
ok question again will a bad battery make you have some codes i jump it off and if it sits for a day or 2 the battery is dead im going to take the battery to have it tested i checked it will my meter and it was at 1 i changed the head on this car and noe i have the codes that i have posted on here i had the icm checked 3 times and they said it passed so can a bad battery make codes pop up thanks larry
Absolutely… a bad/dying battery (or even one with loose connections) can give you ghost codes…
-Karl
ok thank you Karl i will take it to autozone today and have them test it like i said i replaced the head and all of a sudden i have these codes the D4 light flashes but when i have to jump it off it runs good the other day i turned the headlights on-the a/c- and i turned the wipers on high and they was running like they was on low i pit a new alt on not even a year ago but im thinking have it cheked also to be safe thanks again ill post what they find on my battery and alt larry
Alternators and batteries are a team, and all together too often, they die as a team. A bad battery, if not caught pretty quickly and replaced, will often end the life of an alternator prematurely. The same is true for a bad alternator. If you keep jumping the battery, and recharging it, then running it down to nothing because the alternator isn’t getting the job done, the battery will soon follow in the alternators footsteps.
Moreover, bad connections in the system can kill both of them over time. When ever you need to replace an alternator, it is a good idea to make sure the battery has a full charge, and load test it. When ever you need to change the battery, it isn’t a bad idea to go ahead and test the alternator as well.
Finally, when ever you service either the alternator, or the battery, take a minute to go through those battery cable connections, at the battery, fuse box, engine, starter, and body. Make sure all are clean, and tight, and your charging system will thank you by being dependable.
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