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1993 Honda Accord slams into Drive and Reverse

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  • #506450
    gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
    Participant

      Hello everyone, im having some trouble with my Accord EX 2.3L non VTEC, with just 80k miles on it.

      It feels like the car engages real hard on drive or reverse, its almost like if someone bumped you from the rear bumper.

      This issue does not happen when the engine is cold, only occurs when it has completely warmed up, and it does it maybe 90% of the times you switch from Park to Drive or Reverse, or between Drive and Reverse.
      Gears changes doesent seem too harsh, although they are much more noticeable than on a Chevrolet Silverado 2001.

      Fluid has been changed according to manual since new, only that the dealership had used ATF+4 instead of the Honda ATF. Did a drain and fill with the new Honda ATF Z1 i believe, no changes (fluid came out red).

      Any ideas?

      Thanks!

    Viewing 6 replies - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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    • #540712
      BillBill
      Participant

        I would have a professional have a look at it for an educated opinion. They usually don’t charge for an opinion.

        #541049
        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
        Keymaster

          [quote=”gabrielbyrnei” post=70621]It cant be a torque converter issue that causes the slams, if it stayed locked when idleing it would stall the engine.[/quote]

          Please read this.

          http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems

          #541051
          EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
          Keymaster

            You seem to have covered a lot of the bases with the fluid change and checking the engine mounts. That said, what about the axles? Perhaps you have a loose CV joint that’s causing the problem. If you don’t have a CEL or engine performance problem then that’s likely not the cause. One other thought I had is that your shifter may not be adjusted properly. If that’s the case it won’t put the manual valve in completely and might cause the condition you’re having. Lastly, do the gear indicators on the dash work if you have them? If not then it might indicate a problem with the shift linkage not being adjusted properly.

            #541402
            Troy NicholsTroy Nichols
            Participant

              Thanks for the input everyone! Well the slam into reverse is gone thanks to changing the FWD engine mount. It looked ok until I pulled it out ant the bolt hole was severely elongated. Still lags shifting into drive when dead cold which may be AT problem or related to high idle issue. While checking the mounts I discovered that the vacuum supply to the aft mount does not come on till the engine is warm and the idle drops. Then its rock solid till you rev the engine which is what it should do. (I think this might be what ruined the front mount since the aft never goes firm until the idles down.) At least this confirms in my mind that there is a high idle problem. I changed the coolant sensor with no effect, checked the PSP and its wiring, voltage and wires good and it reads closed. I am wondering about the idle set up. I cant adjust it with the IACV disconnected because the engine surges. Is that normal for a 2000 Accord? Bad IACV? Also when it first occurred, the AC clutch would not engage but that problem went away during trouble shooting. Is that a clue? Thanks for all the help.

              #541408
              Troy NicholsTroy Nichols
              Participant

                Oh, and yes the gear position lights all work Eric. However I did have the center console out for a stereo install a few months back so I will check into the shifter theory. Maybe I moved something. I just don’t get why it only does it when cold.

                #542114
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  Please stop throwing parts at it. This is NOT the way you want to go about this and if you used something other than an OE temp sensor, put the old one back in. That said, you might have an issue with the wiring in the console or you might have bumped the shifter switch. I wouldn’t put much stock in this theory however if your shift indicator lights on the dash read correctly. You’ll have to check the procedure for setting idle on your vehicle but I believe you need to set it with the IAC unplugged. If it’s surging perhaps there’s a vacuum leak that you didn’t know about causing that problem OR someone has already tampered withe the idle and that may be the root cause the entire time. Keep us posted and don’t install any more parts until you have diagnosed them as faulty.

                Viewing 6 replies - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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