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1993 Honda Accord slams into Drive and Reverse

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  • #506450
    gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
    Participant

      Hello everyone, im having some trouble with my Accord EX 2.3L non VTEC, with just 80k miles on it.

      It feels like the car engages real hard on drive or reverse, its almost like if someone bumped you from the rear bumper.

      This issue does not happen when the engine is cold, only occurs when it has completely warmed up, and it does it maybe 90% of the times you switch from Park to Drive or Reverse, or between Drive and Reverse.
      Gears changes doesent seem too harsh, although they are much more noticeable than on a Chevrolet Silverado 2001.

      Fluid has been changed according to manual since new, only that the dealership had used ATF+4 instead of the Honda ATF. Did a drain and fill with the new Honda ATF Z1 i believe, no changes (fluid came out red).

      Any ideas?

      Thanks!

    Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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    • #506452
      619DioFan619DioFan
      Participant

        check your motor mounts and tranny mount.

        #506563
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          you may have a problem from using non Honda fluid.

          #506789
          gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
          Participant

            If it were the mounts, i believe it would happen both with the engine hot and cold wouldnt it?

            I was also suspecting about the fluid, maybe the ATF+4 thins out too much when the transmission gets hot?
            Could it also be a faulty IACV causing the RPMs to not be adjusted when going from Neutral or Park to Gear (D or R)? I say this because on a friend with a silverado truck, he was having rough changes from D to R, and back, just like i am, and it was a faulty TPS, which had hes RPMs in the wrong range.

            #506809
            college mancollege man
            Moderator

              Does the car idle correct?

              #506812
              nicholas largenicholas large
              Participant

                i have to agree with other comments make sure you don’t have any underlying engine faults ie ect sensor reading out of range as the automatic transmission sends a message to the engine ecu to cut throttle when gear changing ? also if engine all ok it may be something to do with transmission valve body solenoids get it on a good computer and read the engine and box ?

                #506822
                gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
                Participant

                  The car 95% of the times idles perfectly, around the 780 or so RPM, just looking at the tachometer on Drive.
                  Theres counted times where it dips a bit lower, maybe 600, but if given some seconds, comes back up.
                  As i said, this is on rare ocassions, maybe once or twice a day.
                  No troubles with idleing with the AC on, lights, etc either, idles at the same RPMs.

                  Theres no check engine light. Tried the paper clip trick (since its and OBD I) and no blinking from the CEL, just a steady on.

                  #506887
                  college mancollege man
                  Moderator

                    actually your idle is high. with no loads on idle
                    should be 550+-50 rpms.with a load on the engine
                    you should be 770+-50rpms.you may need to reset
                    your base idle.here is the procedure.

                    http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dinotapia/2010-05-02_063049_idle_speed_adjustment_90-93_accord.pdf

                    #507032
                    gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
                    Participant

                      [video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gsGLMZ2i1o&feature=youtu.be[/video]
                      This is my idle both on a cold start and with the engine already hot.

                      And according to the service manual:

                      [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/zmnm7b.png[/IMG]
                      Mine is the H23 engine

                      #507061
                      A toyotakarlIts me
                      Moderator

                        I know it sounds stupid, but check your fluid level according to the manufacturers specifications (hot/cold). When there is too much fluid the pressure increases and causes a very hard surge when shifting into gear. It actually can be worse to have too much PS fluid in the tranny than too little.

                        #540585
                        Troy NicholsTroy Nichols
                        Participant

                          I’m having the same issue. Any resolution? Thanks!

                          #540590
                          gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
                          Participant

                            Nope.

                            Did 2 ATF changes, checked all engines and transmission mounts. Also checked the TV cable that goes from the throttle body to the transmission and it was ok.
                            Still happening when engine is warmed up.

                            So my last thought is that it must be a faulty IACV in my case at least. Its not adjusting RPM’s fast enough when passing through Neutral, i suppose!
                            Besides im having an issue with the first cold start every morning, been like that for some time, first time it bogs and sometimes dies, others it idles waaay low, 100-200 for a couple of seconds and then goes up to 1500 rpm and stays there while cold.

                            #540594
                            Troy NicholsTroy Nichols
                            Participant

                              Yeah I’ve been down the same road. Motor mounts good, 3x fluid flush, pulled and cleaned all the tranny solenoids. Then started thinking it was an idle issue. Pulled and cleaned the IAC, the EGR and the throttle body. (Bought an IAC but at $189 I will wait and change it as a last resort)Adjusted the idle as low as it would go. No effect. Then I got to thinking it might be coolant related once I realized that the IAC received fluid from the coolant system. Changed the thermostat and wont know if that changed things till tomorrow when she’s dead cold. It didn’t appear to be stuck open but it had a lot of caked on grime. If that’s a no fix I’m thinking maybe the temp sensor that supplies the ECM is screwy. I read that it could affect the torque converter lock up. Not really sure which one it is but I checked the 3 I could see with a meter and sensors and wires checked good against values I found on the net. The fans come on but it takes a bit of revving to get them there and then they shut off right away. Not sure if that’s normal. I’ll let you know if I get an answer. Please do the same for me.

                              #540596
                              gabrielbyrneigabrielbyrnei
                              Participant

                                It cant be a torque converter issue that causes the slams, if it stayed locked when idleing it would stall the engine.

                                #540667
                                Troy NicholsTroy Nichols
                                Participant

                                  Well still the same issue this morning. IDK what to do now. I don’t think its the IAC since it goes away when warm. No vac leaks. Intake leak maybe? I think its something simple.

                                  #540708
                                  Matt BrandsemaMatt Brandsema
                                  Participant

                                    If this is a FWD car (which I assume it is) a lot of the times inside the transmission (or more properly, transaxle) the torque converter is linked to the gear set by a drive chain. When this chain gets worn and loose, it can cause a “slam” when shifting into gear. It is possible that the chain is worn, but has proper tension when it is cold, but expands more when the fluid heats up, (heat makes things expand) causing it to be loose.

                                    Just a thought.

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