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1993 Honda Accord problems after engine swap

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  • #648778
    Thomas TateThomas Tate
    Participant

      Alright, I’ll warn you guys now, I tend to type a lot, so be prepared for a lot of info.

      First off, sorry for this being my first post. I am far from new to working on cars, or being on car forums, so I know how this looks. I am sorry, but I am very desperate to figure this out and get this car running ASAP. It is very important for me as I am starting a job soon, like, tomorrow, really, and I need this thing running.

      So, it’s a 1993 Honda Accord. Factory automatic, swapped to a 5 speed before I purchased it. It came with an f22a6. I have swapped in an H23A. DOHC VTEC engine from Japan. The swap was done the right way, and I took the utmost care in doing everything. All new seals, all new gaskets, new timing belt, new clutch and flywheel. I tried to keep everything I could together from the factory, but I had to replace some things here and there.

      My problem is as such, the car starts and runs. It will idle. The idle isn’t rough at all, but it is a bit high. Sometimes it’s too low. It’s kinda all over, I guess, but it DOES idle okay. I turn the key, it starts up fine and holds an idle with no input at all. The idle isn’t the problem. As soon as the car gets any sort of gas at all, it wants to die. If I just give it JUST A TINY TINY BIT, it will rev a little bit, but any more and immediately falls on its face and wants to die. I tried to drive it, which went horribly. As soon as I gave it any gas at all it immediately wanted to die, if I tried to let out on the clutch it immediately wanted to die.

      Right now the car has a bunch of tiny issues, I know, but I have no idea which one is causing this. The car completely changes personalities as soon as it’s in gear, and I have no idea why.

      Sorry to post here about it, but the forums I usually go to are rather dead, and I am in a huge panic about getting this thing going, and I thought that someone here might be able to give me some more insight into what’s going on.

      Also, I don’t have an O2 sensor hooked up right now. My TPS was calibrated properly, but it is an aftermarket TPS, so that could be an issue. I am getting fuel (although I won’t claim that the fuel delivery is perfect, so it still might be related somewhere with that), and I am getting spark. Spark I know has to be flawless at this point because I have brand new plugs, cap, rotor, coil, and ignitor. All the gaskets and seals in the distributor are brand new as well.

      Thank you guys so much.

      EDIT: I went out as soon as sun rose (about twenty minutes ago) and checked my codes and to see what would happen. Firstly, I started it, ran fine. Checked my codes. I was getting a code for the MAP and a code for the TPS. Which makes sense, since I unplugged both yesterday during my testing. I surprisingly wasn’t getting an O2 sensor code, which I think is weird. So I cleared the codes, and started it up. Immediately I get a MAP code. So, I decided to shut the car off, unplug the map, and start it back up. Started, and idled fine once again. I put the car in gear, and the car had enough power to pull itself forward with no gas input.

      So, I’m starting to suspect the problem may lie more with the throttle body.

      If anyone has any input though, I’d love to hear it.

    Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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    • #648797
      IngvarIngvar
      Participant

        Little do I know about swaps of this nature, you answered your own question.
        “Factory automatic” swapped to “5 speed”.

        You realize you have factory PCM/BCM/TCM set up for automatic? And you are trying to make her run on MANUAL? How’s that supposed to work?
        Like I said – little do I know, but such swaps normally should be accompanied by either ECM/TCM/BCM reflash for manual or proper control modules swap. Top this with yet another engine swap – now poor control modules are totally confused. Are the harnesses even matching? You miss one plug for a sensor – and it’s all done.
        Out of curiosity. Engine from Japan? Last time we did one, it was plug n play with even spark plugs in place. The low mileage certified ones. Why did you have to do all this extra work?

        #648801
        Thomas TateThomas Tate
        Participant

          I did the swap properly. I have a chipped ECU with the H23A basemap. The TCM has long since been disconnected. I did not do the 5 speed swap, previous owner did. He did it wrong, I went in and fixed it. I was running an Accord manual ECU until doing this swap, I am now, like I said, running a flashed ECU running the H23A basemap.

          The harnesses didn’t match from the factory, but I wired everything in properly. Mostly all I needed to do was lengthen and move wires. There were one or two sensors where I had to wire a different end on, or swap the sensor out with an older one.

          I don’t know what cars you’re doing swaps into, but this car was originally SOHC, non VTEC with an OBD1 Engine. The new engine was factory OBDII, so a few things needed to be changed to convert it to OBD1.

          I’ve certainly done EVERYTHING in this swap properly, and with the utmost care. I triple checked all wiring changed. The wire harness I used, came out of an Accord, and it was slightly modified to fit on this engine. I then ran the wires needed to add the VTEC stuff.

          The problems I am having, I am 99% certain, have nothing to do with the ECU. If they do, then Rywire sent me the wrong basemap or something.

          I went ahead and got my O2 sensor installed. Tested a few more things.

          After all was said and done, I am still getting the MAP code. Idle is sitting at around 2200 RPM. I can tap the gas, it will go down to where it needs to be, and the immediately go back up.

          Idles strong. Stays right at that RPM. Once it was warmed up, I revved it slowly up to about 5k, and it did fine. So, I decided I would go for a drive. It seemed to be acting a lot better this time.

          It did the same thing. As soon as it was in gear, if I tried to give it any gas, it would drop in revs. I was going down hill. I would give it gas, it would slow down. I barely made it back uphill.

          Another issue. The fan won’t switch on. I know for a fact that the fan works fine. I have it plugged into the fan switch next to the thermostat. I tested the fan by jumping the wires. I went ahead and swapped the fan switch from my old engine onto this one. I was told that the japanese sensor works differently, so I figured I’d give it a try. It doesn’t work.

          #648826
          cb7ftwcb7ftw
          Participant

            If your missing your fist O2 in the exhaust, you computer will not get the fuel right.

            #648827
            cb7ftwcb7ftw
            Participant

              If you turn your AC on, does your fans come on?

              #648828
              cb7ftwcb7ftw
              Participant

                Look up the fuel pressure for your new engine. Make sure you are getting that. Might need a different fuel pump.

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