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Hey guys,
Since I’ve bought this car a year ago the ABS never worked. The yellow light turns ON right before I start the car and goes OFF a few seconds later and never lights up when driving or in any other occasion.
I already checked for fault codes but it doesn’t have any. The brake fluid was changed some months ago and the car stops great and without any issues.
What may be wrong with it? Any ideas?
Thank you
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Replies
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Sounds like everything is fine…. The light going on is just a system check when you start the car.
If something were wrong the light would remain illuminated…. Hence why no codes are found…
Why do you believe it has no working ABS? Have the brakes locked up in icy/wet conditions instead of pulsate?
-Karl
Hi Karl,
That’s exactly what happens, the wheels lock up in wet conditions and there is no pulsate effect in the pedal hence the reason why I don’t undestrand what is going on… :S
You’re better off without it. A NHTSA study showed ABS has no effect on traffic deaths and actually increases side-hit accidents by 80%. About $40 billion wasted on ABS systems so far and counting.
Try cleaning the wheel speed sensors and ensure the gap between them and the tone ring is correct….
Karl
Ok Karl I’m going to try and do just that but I have a feeling it won’t make any difference…in the case that is the problem wouldn’t it make the ABS light to turn ON?
Tks
If the speed sensors were bad, yes it should throw a code…. What I suspect may be wrong is that your wheel speed sensors are not telling the computer that a wheel or wheels is having an issue… These things are magnetic and can get covered in bits of metal or grime… possibly enough to effect your system…. It may work, or it may not, but at this point you have little to lose… If possible, avoid trying to remove them… They get pretty stuck in place and often break when removal is attempted….
-Karl
There could be a problem with the ABS module or the ABS modulator. The ABS module sends some hefty amps to the ABS modulator valves, or it should. The valves should open, but they can stick sometimes too. Problem is, it’s hard to simulate a skid while you’re holding the multimeter onto the valve solenoid wires. And it’s not something you can casually swap out, Honda wants $1,700 for the ABS module and $1847 for the modulator. If you really want this fixed you probably need to take it to someplace that has actual ABS scan and stimulation tools. Personally I just ignore it and drive 10% slower.
Since this is getting to be a vintage car and since the system does draw hefty amps one thing you could do is make sure the wiring supplying power is all shiny clean. I’ve heard there is a connection for the ABS at the battery that can get corroded.
If the light is on while driving, you have codes stored. This is how you get them.
If they don’t come up this way, look for access to a plug in the trunk. Usually a 2″ square plastic cap. Behind it you will see a flashing LED that will give you the codes. You need to turn the key on to see these codes.
This is how you would be able to interpret those codes.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/honda-abs-codes-1994-to-1997
There are a few common failures on that system. Finding the code will help you find which one you might be dealing with.
Keep us posted.
Do you have enough braking power to lock up the wheels? Can leave black skid marks in the parking lot? If the answer is negative, ABS is not going to be activated. It is easy to check this at very low speed in deserted parking lot. It would be highly unlikely to have all four wheels locked up and ABS unit not recognizing.
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