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Hello everyone I am back once again. So everything on my car is going good except for my engine burning oil. I will include a pic and in the pic there is a oil spot on the headers coming from the head I assume. Im wondering if maybe the valve stem seals are bad and is what is causing my engine oil to burn as it leaks down to the valves. I do see smoke, i have checked my coolant no bubbles, no milky coolant. Please let me know what you guys think.
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yea but thing is i dont have the money for a engine rebuild right now. I bought a d16z6 vtec head, and I am currently talking to someone who has a complete d16z6 swap including the tranny for 300. and he claims it runs which is good bcuz i could just swap it then work on the d15b and when thats complete swap it into my car so i could work on my d16z6 but well see where it goes, i may as well buy a gasket/seal kit from ebay and changed the valve stem seals myself clean out the outlets and by removing the head i could take a better look at the pistons and would be able to post pics to get some advice and id be able to clean the top of those pistons off as well. Heres another question, the head from my motor is a PM3-1 which is a 1990 Si head, if I get a gasket set or at least the new valve stem seals will a gasket set from a 92-95 work with this head? The head looks exactly the same so do the internals but just wondering if anyone really knows these motors to give me an answer? If I take of the head how can I check if I have worn piston rings? Anyone with good pics of worn piston rings from looking at the block please post link, i dont plan to take the pistons completely out so thats why im requesting pics from the top of the block while the pistons are still in there, bcuz i may just take the head to a machine shop or just remove head along with valve train and degrease the head then clean with brake cleaner not sure if ill do that to the valve train but i also wana clean out the valves and replace all seals.
I wish I had gotten to you sooner. Everyone HOPES it’s the valve seals in a situation like this but the truth is the positive type of valve seal that Honda uses RARELY is the cause of an oil consumption. In my experience it’s almost always the rings and cylinder walls, it’s a very common occurrence on that engine. You can verify this with a leak down test.
Leak down testing
Finding TDC
Now. Don’t rebuild. To do a proper rebuild would cost WAY more than replacing the engine. Don’t forget that you’ll need to have some machining work in addition to measuring and installing all the new parts. I would advise you save your money and get a reman engine as it would be the best and most economical way of resolving this issue. At this point if you have the head off already you really can’t do the leak down but trust me when I say it’s RARELY the valve seals that are the cause of this problem. In addition you don’t need to remove the cylinder head to replace them.
If you want more proof. Take a look at what was inside this Civic engine and I think you’ll see a lot of similarities.
Thanx for everyones posts, I have not done anything to the motor except clean out the exhaust valves with just a wire brush and sucking the dust with a shop vac. Eric: Where would I begin to look for another motor? Any place u would recommend to look for motors? I live in California close to Sacramento. I will try nd do a leak down test as well as a compression test. This motor does have a lot of miles on it that sucky thing is that I had just done a clutch replacement on it. It was running fine and even passed smog but right after I seafoamed it, it started smoking more than usual. I am currently using Mobil 1 10w-30 oil weight and it burns it still, the car runs and all and i believe i am getting 30mpg so this is just too weird. Usually when i first start the car it revs up to like 1500 and stays there a while maybe till it gets warm then drops down to about 600-800rpm range and when I drive around and come to a stop the motor revs normal id say at around 500-750rpm but there are times where the rpms drop super low to the point where the car almost shuts off but doesnt. Well this is my project car just wasnt looking to be adding that much money into it. I do have a z6 head but i am looking for a D16z6 complete swap but if i could find a cheap engine that runs and whether its reman or rebuilt is fine as long as it doesnt completely empty out my pockets. Will take me time to do leak down and comp test becuz i dont have tools but hey im not in a hurry as I have another vehicle to drive to work n back. Well please let me know asap where possibly I could find reliable reman/rebuilt/used engines. thank you guys.
best option might be to look at a junk yard. see if you can walk across a used but clean engine out of a honda that was wrecked.
be careful though because its a honda people love to rice race them up, and if you dont do mods properly (you cant just slap a 21 lbs turbo on a stock built engine) you will blow it up or cause massive internal damage. otherwise do a search online or ask a trusted parts person. Being in cali you are limited by emissions laws what you can put in your car. you already have a head so a short block might be what you are looking for. buy the same engine and just transfer parts from the old one over. I dont recommend re-using water pumps or other such wearable parts as doing a motor swap is a GREAT time to save time and replace them all at once.
if money is a major issue, just put yours back together and run it till it drops or it wont pass emissions anymore. while waiting start saving money for a purchase. Im doing that with my truck that likes thinking its a diesel and blows smoke everywhere.
or you could move 5 hours north and we could shoehorn a chevy 305 into your hatch….
This is a good site to find an engine.
Also this might be useful info. Keep in mind synthetic oil does not cause leaks but rather can make the leaks you have worse.
Update!!! Just recently purchased a D16z6. But back to my D15B- i recently did a oil change with Quaker State 10W-40(if motor is gona go out wasnt looking to spend on oil and looking at the videos that eric just posted glad i didnt, this motor oil was on sale) added some stuff called Rislone Ring Sealer and Smoke Repair, said to stop exhaust smoke reduce oil burning seals worn piston and rings. So far its good still smellin like oil is burnin or it might be my clutch which i do hope its not because it barely has 2200 miles on it with a new flywheel so i dont get why a new clutch + flywheel would be burning up at this stage. I drive about 20 miles everyday half city and half freeway. I think its either that additive i put in or the quaker state oil that makes my engine sound weird (will post video later with details and descriptions.) If all fails and motor dies will have to swap in the d16z6.
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