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1993 D15B burning oil.

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  • #490317
    EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
    Participant

      Hello everyone I am back once again. So everything on my car is going good except for my engine burning oil. I will include a pic and in the pic there is a oil spot on the headers coming from the head I assume. Im wondering if maybe the valve stem seals are bad and is what is causing my engine oil to burn as it leaks down to the valves. I do see smoke, i have checked my coolant no bubbles, no milky coolant. Please let me know what you guys think.
      [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/Untitled_zpsfe47f36b.jpg[/IMG]

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    • #490324
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        If the valve stem seals were bad.You would see blue to
        black smoke on start up and possible running.It may be
        the valve cover.Get us some good pics and we will all
        take a peak.

        #490332
        EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
        Participant

          [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/DSC01519_zpsda55e890.jpg[/IMG]

          #490549
          college mancollege man
          Moderator

            you will need remove the exhaust manifold to see if
            the exhaust bolt hole is cracked or the head.

            #490676
            EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
            Participant

              the head itself could be cracked right there which could cause it to leak? Ill take off the exhaust mani tomorrow and post pics. But thanx so far for the info.

              #490684
              Lord IhcalamLord Ihcalam
              Participant

                if you take the manifold off you will have to replace the manifold gasket. looks to me like you dont have much of a valve cover leak but it might be ready to go at any time. there is some wetness there but not a bad build up on it.
                how many miles are on it?

                check the o rings on the filler cap and i think the bolts have them too.

                #491007
                EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
                Participant

                  Alright guys so here are pics beginning with the 1st valve outlet from the left.
                  1st from left (notice how above the first valve it seems to be wet)
                  [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/1Valvefromleft_zps5e88cae7.jpg[/IMG]

                  2nd from left (Also wet on top of both valves worse then the first pic)
                  [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/DSC01527_zps69e94ca2.jpg[/IMG]

                  3rd from left
                  [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/3rdvalvefromleft_zps0dd77c49.jpg[/IMG]

                  4th from left
                  [IMG]http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss331/209KINGOFCALI/4thvalvefromleft_zpsabf4bc8e.jpg[/IMG]

                  I was thinking if indeed I have to replace the valve stem seals is it more worth it to go to picknpull and find a good head and just pull it off so basically a swap. Ive seen some clean heads almost looked like they have been cleaned at the machine shop so theres no oil burnt on the valve train. Well let me know what you guys think. The current valve cover gasket on my motor has about 4,000 miles on it, may still have warranty on it. One last question why is it so important to replace the gasket on the manifold since I took it off?

                  #491035
                  Lord IhcalamLord Ihcalam
                  Participant

                    wow. that is bad. i dont know where to even start cleaning something like that.

                    just like an intake gasket you dont want exhaust leaks either. bad enough leak and you can warp your valves. and it makes your car sound shitty.

                    i meant how many miles are on the engine itself. but at only 4k on the valve cover gasket it might not be leaking from the gasket itself but the oil fill cap or maybe the bolts holding down the cover. did you replace those o-rings at the same time? if you did clean the entire surface with carb cleaner, (make sure its cold tho) and wipe it down. then after the cleaner evaps go for a spirited drive and see if oil comes back somewhere

                    #491062
                    EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
                    Participant

                      Yea I know as soon as I took off the manifold. All the gaskets on the valve cover were changed at the same time. As far as the o rings, which ones are you talking about specifically because the valve train also has o ring down under and those I have yet to replace. As mentioned maybe im better off finding a head at picknpull save me time and money from cleaning this head. I am currently not driving this car because I am driving my other car so I have time but gotta wait for $$ to come in. But what I might do is clean out all that burnt oil by taking chunks off with a scrape trying carefully to not let pieces fall, ill use a vacuum while doing so as to prevent pieces from falling in, spray brake cleaner as well as maybe some sea foam or fuel inject cleaner into the valves but will do research before I do. Any recommendations?

                      #491098
                      Lord IhcalamLord Ihcalam
                      Participant

                        it might be more economical to replace the head rather than having it cleaned. carb cleaner would work best on this i think, but you would ruin every gasket and o-ring in the head and have to replace them all over again. and it twill take alot of cleaner. price out a shop doing it for you, and then price out pulling a head from a bone yard. if you clean, you will probably destroy the gaskets you put on, and if you get a junkyard part i would recoment stuffing new gaskets in it anyway while the part is out of the car. Might be able to score a DOHC head to convert and get more power too. Thats the plan with my Saturn anyway DOHC and 5-speed swap.

                        #491200
                        college mancollege man
                        Moderator

                          is that oil or fuel.send the head to a machine shop.
                          They will hot tank it.also have it magna fluxing which
                          will check for any cracks.no sense rebuilding a cracked
                          head.this way you get it back its ready to be bolted back on.

                          #491463
                          EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
                          Participant

                            Well I cant do a DOHC on a d15b but I might end up just looking for a head at picknpull. I dont think its worth it to take it to a machine shop for the reason that im not gona build anything, id rather if anything pull the head off and remove the valve train, de-grease the naked head wash thoroughly as well as the valve train and intake/exhaust ports and again was thoroughly, lube everything up with a bit of oil, replace all gaskets and seals, clean up valves and put everything back together and I should be good with a nearly new head. So here’s a question relating back to the pics above, I’m more of a technical person so id would like to know what causes all the gunk nd grime? i understand that its “bad” but what other then stem seals, and head having a ton of miles could cause that?

                            #491542
                            Lord IhcalamLord Ihcalam
                            Participant

                              if its oil it might indicate worn piston rings too. if its fuel you were running rich for a long time and no cleaners ever used.

                              #491544
                              EvolutionjuanEvolutionjuan
                              Participant

                                How do i check if its fuel or oil? When I got the car it wasnt smoking or anything. I used some cleaners and even seafoamed it. then after i sea foamed it, it started smoking more. but damn if its worn piston rings too then have to do a complete rebuild but no worries cuz im investing in a z6 swap so if anything i can rebuild that and just swap. But if someone could please answer my first question in this post please and thankyou for the replies….

                                #491713
                                college mancollege man
                                Moderator

                                  To answer you question. The gook is most likely from oil leaking
                                  into the combustion chambers and being burned. You can’t compress
                                  oil. the oil tries to make it out of the combustion chamber. But
                                  as you can see only makes it so far.Then the fouling acts like a
                                  glue.everything starts to stick to it.

                                  #491725
                                  KZ 259KZ 259
                                  Participant

                                    i think a complete engine swap would be more efficient here and save the old engine for a project or something similar

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