- This topic has 11 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
My son’s Accord engine has shut off ocassionally the last few times he has driven it. I checked the usual visual stuff, battery terminals and ground connections and found nothing wrong. When it happens he can pull off to the side of the road and the car will start up, no problem. I have searched on this forum and found references to possible ignition switch problems. I have a Haynes manual for the car but it recommends avoiding the ignition switch job because you have to disable the airbags and remove the steering wheel. My guess is that someone here has found another less complcated way to do the job.
Does anyone have a diagram of the installation or a video? There is a video on youtube for a ’94 ignition switch replacement but that design looks different.
Any other ideas about what to check for?
-
Replies
-
usually stalling is due to lack of fuel to engine so generally the fuel system is what should be checked. Removing the steering wheel to fix the ignition is not a hard job but you need a steering wheel puller. As for as disabling the airbag goes i didnt think a 93 car HAD airbags i didnt thing those went standard til 98. modern cars airbags are on its own fuse i recommend yanking the fuse anyways 90s airbags are deadly and have been known to severly injure passengers and the driver and the airbag has killed some people. Its safer to pull the fuse cheaper too if theres a wreck. Far as i know if the ignition system was the issue you would get hesitation starting and starting problems not stalling.
With the car running in park. try and wiggle the key
in the ignition to see if the car cuts off. if so replace
just the electrical portion of the switch.I asked my son if there was any stumble before the car dies and he said no it is a quick clean shut down.
The ignition layout in those videos is for a 94 Accord which is alot different than the 93 layout. When I wiggled the key with the car in park and the engine running it does not shut down.
Swap the main relay. It’s usually down near the driver’s side left kick panel. They’re known for acting up when they get hot. (age, resistance, etc.) Pulling off the road is enough for it to cool and conduct again.
Thanks for the tip on the relay. I may have to check it again. But I changed it about a year ago to fix a starting problem (which it did). Right now the car starts (so far) every time immediately after it shuts off, no waiting required. By the way it has 238,000 miles on it and as far as I know the ignitor in the distributor has never been changed. This condition is so intermittent that I am at a loss at how to diagnosis it. When the car is running, it runs really good.
[quote=”5oldnnew” post=56095]By the way it has 238,000 miles on it and as far as I know the ignitor in the distributor has never been changed. This condition is so intermittent that I am at a loss at how to diagnosis it. [/quote]
its got almost 250k miles on it if the ignitor and distributor have never been changed then id say change it anyway if i dont fix the issue no big deal but something that old with that much miles on it should be replaced due to those facts alone
college man , thank you for posting these videos. Eric’s logical way of working is always helpful thats why I became a premium member. I spoke with my son today and at least his drive into work (23 miles) was clear sailing. I will hopefully have some time to get a look at the car again this weekend.
Do you know if an intermittent shut down like these would produce any codes? I have not yet been able to get my hands on the car right after one of these episodes.
codes are stored in the computer for 15-50 ignition cycles. just cuz u have no CEL or dash lights on dont mean there is no codes in the computer if your scanner has live data drive the car with it on live data and see if you can get it to act up
Well I finally got a chance to check this car out today. I got it to shut down just sitting in the driveway with the engine idling. I checked spark and there wasn’t any. Took the distributor cap off and found oil inside the cap. i would guess that oil residue might be enough to ocassionally kill the spark. My son is so sick of this car he does not want to put anymore money into it. I did find a youtube video on how to replace the oil seals on this distributor. I told him that fix would be cheap and that I would do the work. Not sure if we will follow through. If I do I will keep you posted.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.