- This topic has 66 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 5 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
So, here we go – Eric’s all-time FAVORITE question: 🙂
I’ve done the following but the stinkin’ car will not start!So I got the car as a gift – it was not starting
Issues: loads of oil in 3 of the 4 plug wells, crank no start
1. Replaced plugs (Autolite at first, now NGK), wires (some off-brand junk…probably need to get NGK), valve cover gasket (complete kit – even the tube seals) with Fel-Pro
Got the car running but then after warm-up, it would sputter, then die when pressing the gas2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced PCV Valve
4. Disassembled & cleaned throttle body (new Fel-Pro gasket on reassembly)
5. Disassembled & cleaned fast idle valve
6. flushed & burped coolant
7. checked compression and fuel pressure – both good
8. Replaced Distributor Cap, Rotor, and Ignition Coil (Beck/Arnley parts for all 3) – prior coil tested bad with ohm meter
9. Checked Main Relay – okay
10. Tried using carb cleaner in throttle – still no startI’ve noticed the cranking is not exactly rhythmic – it seems to be a little off.
Should I replace the fuel pressure regulator next? What is going wrong, here?
Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
-
Replies
-
Also, by the way, I just ran another compression test and came up with the following:
1. 200
2. 200
3. 195
4. 180
I think the cylinders still had residual oil in them leftover from the last compression test so I did not do a wet test.The statement in the Haynes manual would be true, IF the manual is only considering the four-wire versions of the coil. There are several variants of that coil. The two you have are for production years 1992-1993 (these use three wires to the coil). Other coil variants are for 1992-1997 (these use all four wires to the coil). The four-wire coils will work just fine in vehicles such as yours, that extra tach circuit will just sit there non-functional. That was the reason I asked if you had 3 or 4 wires going to the coil. Since Haynes does not get their information from the factory service manual, the writer and editor of that Haynes manual may not have been aware of this peculiarity.
Those numbers look great. Highest – lowest (200-180) = 20.
20 / 200 is 10%. That indicates the compression is fine, no worries there.Great, thanks!
I think I’ll put the TC19A back on the car, since that’s what it originally called for…
Update:
I re-installed the TC-19A as well as a used OEM Honda Distributor, sold to me at an insane price ($40) from a (very good) friend.
My gift/project accord has officially come back to life!!!!!!
Thank you ALL so much – your dedication, patience, and good advice has saved me THOUSANDS of dollars!!!
Now I’m having an idle issue, but that’ll be for another thread. 🙂
Thanks again, from the heart of my bottom. 🙂
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.