- This topic has 66 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 5 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
So, here we go – Eric’s all-time FAVORITE question: 🙂
I’ve done the following but the stinkin’ car will not start!So I got the car as a gift – it was not starting
Issues: loads of oil in 3 of the 4 plug wells, crank no start
1. Replaced plugs (Autolite at first, now NGK), wires (some off-brand junk…probably need to get NGK), valve cover gasket (complete kit – even the tube seals) with Fel-Pro
Got the car running but then after warm-up, it would sputter, then die when pressing the gas2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced PCV Valve
4. Disassembled & cleaned throttle body (new Fel-Pro gasket on reassembly)
5. Disassembled & cleaned fast idle valve
6. flushed & burped coolant
7. checked compression and fuel pressure – both good
8. Replaced Distributor Cap, Rotor, and Ignition Coil (Beck/Arnley parts for all 3) – prior coil tested bad with ohm meter
9. Checked Main Relay – okay
10. Tried using carb cleaner in throttle – still no startI’ve noticed the cranking is not exactly rhythmic – it seems to be a little off.
Should I replace the fuel pressure regulator next? What is going wrong, here?
Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
-
Replies
-
There was a question asking if I’d set it to tdc but it looks like it’s been edited or removed; on the flywheel, there were 2 sets of marks – 1 set had 3 hash marks and the other had just one.
If setting the motor at the one stand-alone hash mark means it’s at tdc, then yes I set it at tdc before beginning the job. Please tell me if I used the wrong hash marks and if so, what I should do to remedy! :/Crazy as this advice may sound, check the alternator. I recently encountered a problem like this on a Lexus. Same symptoms…The car would start, then bog down and die. The battery (I assume) would recharge just enough when it sat a while to create the symptom all over again. BTW, the alternator that was bad was less than a year old. Good luck…
I didn’t see you had gone into the engine before I sent this. Hope this addresses the issue for you
TDC is when the #1 cylinder is at its highest on its compression stroke. It is highly recommended to have it in this position before removing timing components, as the timing marks on all the components reference to timing at TDC.
If the #1 cylinder piston is NOT at TDC, then you may need to loosen and possibly lift the camshaft(s) so the valves are not pushed on in anyway while you rotate the engine to TDC.
Luckily, I was able to double-check the piston position with my snake camera before proceeding; the no.1 piston was at its crest.
Also at this point, my rocker arm assembly is not attached so rotating shouldn’t be an issue.
The reason I brought it up, was that you said that the timing marks were way off – your #1 piston may be at the top of its travel at the exhaust stroke. Usually the cam spins twice for every one turn of the crank. (Or Vise Versa, can’t remember for sure…)
Just don’t want you to put everything together to end up bending some valves.
Update:
I was able to reinstall the rocker arm assembly by beginning the threads of each bolt prior to dropping the assembly into place.
However, I had one question/concern: On the far left side, there should be a wave washer between the end-cap (distributor side) and the first rocker arm, and it is missing.
I REALLY don’t want to take the rocker assembly back off but should I get a new wave washer & put it in there, or will it work fine without it?
Timing belt change complete, new seals, motor still won’t start. Each plug is receiving spark.
Im not sure what else to try at this point. :/Since the timing belt has been changed, that needs to be double-checked before troubleshooting can proceed. When you went to change the belt and placed the #1 at TDC, are you 100% sure you were on compression stroke? It may have been at TDC on the exhaust stroke, in which case the timing is 180 degrees off. To check this and confirm proper timing, rotate the engine back to TDC, remove the valve cover and distributor cap, and ensure that when #1 is TDC and the ignition rotor is pointing in the direction of the cap’s #1 tower that both intake and exhaust valves are closed (slight play in the rocker arm confirms they are closed). If the valves are not closed tight when #1 comes to TDC on the compression stroke the timing is incorrect. Before looking for other issues, you need to be absolutely certain, without any doubt, that the base timing is correct.
After all that work, you better believe I made sure everything was where it needed to be – even used a scope camera in the no.1 cyl to make sure it was at the top.
I have a feeling i must have missed something in the electrical/fuel inspections…[quote=”scubacamper” post=136409]After all that work, you better believe I made sure everything was where it needed to be – even used a scope camera in the no.1 cyl to make sure it was at the top.
I have a feeling i must have missed something in the electrical/fuel inspections…[/quote]
Right, I completely understand that you did all that, as you also mentioned in previous posts. I also understand the engine didn’t run before the timing belt change. But now, there is a new variable. If the engine is 180 degrees off, everything would appear “where it needed to be” except on the wrong stroke. The bottom end turns twice for each turn of the top end. It is important to know that the rotating assembly isn’t just in the correct position but also on the correct stroke. Not to beat a dead horse, but if you honestly cannot state “I am 100% sure that it was in the correct position AND on the correct stroke” then it needs to be checked. If the timing is 180 off, no matter what steps you do next, that engine will not run.IF you are certain that the base timing is correct, and you have already stated you have spark, next is to verify fuel system. Make sure the injectors are getting power (and fuel), and you can use a 12v test light to make sure they are pulsing on/off during cranking.
Yeah, I made absolutely sure each sprocket was aligned where it needed to be, before I put it all back together.
Earlier, I had the injectors out and cleaned each one – each one squirted a stream,but none actually “sprayed” – I’m not sure what that means, if anything, but figured it’s worth mentioning.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.