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Well after my mom’s had this car for a few years I had tended to think her shaking steering wheel was a bad motor mount. But I drove it the other day to get a nail fixed in her tire and realized this think idles at about 500 RPM when in drive, and about 800 when in park.
When in Park or Neutral the car does not shake at all. So it may have just been low idle all along.
When she first got it, it used to have the problem where the tach would rev to about 1500 and drop and rev to 1500 and drop. I took out that one part, I forget what it is called but it has a tan colored ring that you screw back down, FITV maybe? It didn’t fix the problem right away, but it seemed to go away about a month later.
So, low idle when in Drive can that be bumped up or is there possibly another issue?
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Since you’ve seen the video now it’s time for my copy and paste for Honda Idle issues. BTW vacuum leaks are NOT to be underestimated when dealing with idle issues.
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
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